NOS. tell me the good, the bad?

[WyoBoy1000]

the last m1000 I saw it used on shot the primary clutch out the belly pan bouncing off the shock and across the snow, the best part was, the end of the crank went with it. how much do you suppose a new clutch, belly pan, crank ect and never being able to sell the sled locally cost.( less than a turbo )

 

[sledsrock]

N2o

You guy's crack me up.............it's called nitrous or N2O. Actually, NX makes a kit for the sleds, buy it through Himark Rec. up in Idaho, a true wet kit and it works very very well!

 

[JHG]

the last m1000 I saw it used on shot the primary clutch out the belly pan bouncing off the shock and across the snow, the best part was, the end of the crank went with it. how much do you suppose a new clutch, belly pan, crank ect and never being able to sell the sled locally cost.( less than a turbo )

That is not a result of the nitrous. It maybe the result of an idiot using nitrous but not the nitrous kit itself. When used properly and installed and setup correctly there should be no issues.

 

[73GOLIATH]

hi
i put nos on my sled this year to try it. i have a buddy that has had it on his m1000 for 2 seasons now with no problems. he is running the 60hp nozzles so with his help i hope i can tune in my bd kit ( 30hp)

hey caleb it would be nice to have extra money and have a turbo sled also
ha ha
later jim

 

[bigcat_ak]

The Straightline kit is built by Holtzman and uses Patented nozzles and relay. I am installing this system on my 09 M-1000.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Hi guys...I used to run a lot of nitrous on racing engines(big block chevies to be exact)...not on sleds for sure..but ...most things correlate straight acrosss....when you run nitrous..you dont need a bunch(for example when trying to out climb your buds)....lets say you set up for just a 20 hp shot...it will feel like the sled actually gained 25-30 hp.....If you are going to run a big shot(say 60+ hp) there are things the motor needs because of the volume of nitrous....mainly higher octane fuel....but also retard the timing...we ran a MSD 7AL ignition with a retard box..off the nitrous I would pull 42 degrees of timing at 11000 rpm..on first stage of sauce I would pull 20 degrees out, on second stage I would pull 18 degrees of timing out and on high gear shift 6 degrees..meaning on the sauce, I would go from 42 degrees of total timing to -4 degrees of total timing..We used a lot of nitrous..14 pds per 100 ft. pass(this was on a mud racer)running twin 600 hp NOS pro foggers,also bottle pressure is everything for consistency..we used a hand made insulated box to keep the bottles in(with 2- 12 volt heaters in it) to keep bottle pressures right at peak pressures(1075 psi back then)right before we ran bottles were installed in the truck...you need to have a pressure guage on both your bottle(and your fuel if a wet kit) so it will run consistently...also ..if you run much nitrous you may need to experiment with colder plugs..a good check is when climbing, just as you clear the top under full power cut the ignition clean(meaning with the throttle held wide open till the machine completely stops turning....)pull both plugs and inspect..also look at piston domes ..when you look at the side electrode you should see a change in color right about the middle of the 90* bend..if the color change is toward the tip you need a colder heat range plug, if it is past the bend you need a hotter range(I doubt on a sled you will ever have too cold a plug because it will probably foul it before you ever get to the sauce...also for a serious shot of nitrous..you may need to open up the exhaust..the nitrous acts like a seriously ported intake on steroids..most stock exhaust pipes/ports cant keep up with the flow that the intake is forcing on it...(you may need to open up the stingers a few milimeters)...hope that helps guys...

 

[Going West]

60 hp sounds like a lot unless your running some race gas. My brother ran 50 all last season on 91 pump, and when we tore it down this year for the tubo install we found some pitting by the exhauste ports from detination. Id say go 40 for safe operation, then if you do get some fuel that just a little off you would burn down.

 

[blackcloud2k]

aksnowrider, very good post. Lots of useable information. I am only thinking about a 30 shot. If I wanted HUGE power gains I would turbo (but cash flow isnt there)

 

[AlphaMale]

I just purchased a sled with a boss system(30 hp shot and tfi control box) and want to make sure I am set up correctly. What I have gathered from this post is you need to increase your fueling and octane with no2 or you will detinate. The bigger the shot of no2 the more octane and fueling you need. So should I add an octane booster such as Toulene or should I mix in some av gas to be safe? I have a boss seat that holds the bottle but did not know if I am supposed to put the bottle in rightside up or upside down.

 

[73GOLIATH]

hi
you want to mount the neck of the bottle down

 

[HOTRODREDNECK]

some bottles have a dip tube in them. if you shake the bottle you can here a dip tube in it. if it has the dip tube you need to run the bottle upright(valve up). if not valve down. hope this helps.

 

[N2OTOGO]

I have a boss seat that holds the bottle but did not know if I am supposed to put the bottle in rightside up or upside down.

It depends on if you have a syphon tube bottle or not. Most Boondockers and BossNoss bottles are Non syphon tube bottles. Therefor yes the bottle would go with valve down like Goliath stated. But syphon tube bottles would go with the valve up. A quick check to see if you have a syphon tube is to hold the empty bottle and hit it with your palm. A syphon tube bottle will have a sustained vibration caused by the tube itself (like a tuning fork would have). A non syphon tube will not.

I also recomend a blend of race fuel even with smaller shots. And for the larger hits straight up 114. I have used about every kit out there except Holtzman. Im still am a old school Nitrous Oxide Systems user. Even on my trail sleds I have run a large shot. I use a stand alone fuel cell for the race fuel as my trail sled ran on pump gas but could not support that large of a shot of N2O with out race fuel.
My Dragon ran 2 profoggers, 5 selenoids,purge system, and a progressive nitrous controller with a stand alone fuel system.
(see My Garage)
As far as getting refills it is to bad most of you are so far away.
As we have 4 60lb bottles on tap, with a full NOS pump station.

Good luck.
Mark

 

[yamazoom]

Hi guys...I used to run a lot of nitrous on racing engines(big block chevies to be exact)...not on sleds for sure..but ...most things correlate straight acrosss....when you run nitrous..you dont need a bunch(for example when trying to out climb your buds)....lets say you set up for just a 20 hp shot...it will feel like the sled actually gained 25-30 hp.....If you are going to run a big shot(say 60+ hp) there are things the motor needs because of the volume of nitrous....mainly higher octane fuel....but also retard the timing...we ran a MSD 7AL ignition with a retard box..off the nitrous I would pull 42 degrees of timing at 11000 rpm..on first stage of sauce I would pull 20 degrees out, on second stage I would pull 18 degrees of timing out and on high gear shift 6 degrees..meaning on the sauce, I would go from 42 degrees of total timing to -4 degrees of total timing..We used a lot of nitrous..14 pds per 100 ft. pass(this was on a mud racer)running twin 600 hp NOS pro foggers,also bottle pressure is everything for consistency..we used a hand made insulated box to keep the bottles in(with 2- 12 volt heaters in it) to keep bottle pressures right at peak pressures(1075 psi back then)right before we ran bottles were installed in the truck...you need to have a pressure guage on both your bottle(and your fuel if a wet kit) so it will run consistently...also ..if you run much nitrous you may need to experiment with colder plugs..a good check is when climbing, just as you clear the top under full power cut the ignition clean(meaning with the throttle held wide open till the machine completely stops turning....)pull both plugs and inspect..also look at piston domes ..when you look at the side electrode you should see a change in color right about the middle of the 90* bend..if the color change is toward the tip you need a colder heat range plug, if it is past the bend you need a hotter range(I doubt on a sled you will ever have too cold a plug because it will probably foul it before you ever get to the sauce...also for a serious shot of nitrous..you may need to open up the exhaust..the nitrous acts like a seriously ported intake on steroids..most stock exhaust pipes/ports cant keep up with the flow that the intake is forcing on it...(you may need to open up the stingers a few milimeters)...hope that helps guys...

I realize this is a sled forum but your facts in this statement are not correct relative to your personal nitrous application. If you are running 100' there is not a nitrous solenoid with a large enogh orifice to flow 14lbs in that short of time, even with two systems. The MSD 7al will not pull that amount of timing as it is limited to 20 degrees of retard total and would create extreme cross fire with rotor phase issues. If you were able to get the motor to run with that much timing out of it you were sending all your power out the exhaust as max power can only be achieved with full combustion occuring between 5 and 15 degrees after top dead center making it necessary to light the spark even on a big nitrous tune up some time before top dead center. Bottle pressure is key, (as you stated), to have safe and consistent power but anything over 1069 psi will cause nitrous to go sonic and it will have the consistency of foam for lack of a better description, coming out of the bottle and will actually reduce performance as it transitions from liquid to gas. Tuning a 2stroke like you do a 4 stroke can not be acheived by reading the bend on the ground strap of a plug as the 2stroke oil will not show the heat mark on the ground strap. I'm also curious how you managed to get a Big Block chevy to turn 11,000 RPM. If you are running 42 degrees total advance this indicates to me that you are using a conventional 24 degree cylinder head, even with the use of titanium valves and light weight valve train, a 24 degree head will not flow enough air to spin to 11,000 RPM. Current pro-stock 500 Cubic inch motors do not shift this high.

I'm not trying to bust your chops, I just want to make sure that people are getting proper information based on the question asked.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

I realize this is a sled forum but your facts in this statement are not correct relative to your personal nitrous application. If you are running 100' there is not a nitrous solenoid with a large enogh orifice to flow 14lbs in that short of time, even with two systems. The MSD 7al will not pull that amount of timing as it is limited to 20 degrees of retard total and would create extreme cross fire with rotor phase issues. If you were able to get the motor to run with that much timing out of it you were sending all your power out the exhaust as max power can only be achieved with full combustion occuring between 5 and 15 degrees after top dead center making it necessary to light the spark even on a big nitrous tune up some time before top dead center. Bottle pressure is key, (as you stated), to have safe and consistent power but anything over 1069 psi will cause nitrous to go sonic and it will have the consistency of foam for lack of a better description, coming out of the bottle and will actually reduce performance as it transitions from liquid to gas. Tuning a 2stroke like you do a 4 stroke can not be acheived by reading the bend on the ground strap of a plug as the 2stroke oil will not show the heat mark on the ground strap. I'm also curious how you managed to get a Big Block chevy to turn 11,000 RPM. If you are running 42 degrees total advance this indicates to me that you are using a conventional 24 degree cylinder head, even with the use of titanium valves and light weight valve train, a 24 degree head will not flow enough air to spin to 11,000 RPM. Current pro-stock 500 Cubic inch motors do not shift this high.

I'm not trying to bust your chops, I just want to make sure that people are getting proper information based on the question asked.

no chop busting..but that is what we ran...even scott shafiroff shook his head.....440 cubic inch and yes we did turn it that high...reiolla racing supplied the valve springs, and yes it was hard on them....