This is my first post on this forum and have paged through this section for a while. I live in Manitoba Canada riding elevation around 800' mostly trails and ditch banging searching for any powder I can find. I picked up a '05 M7 141" with fox shocks all around. Has 120# compression, y-pipe and can and orange and white cluth springs. I wasn't able to test drive it when I bought it but it seemed like it ran good. It was what I would consider fair condition and not well maintained. I am in the process of going through it and replacing all bushings and greasing. New track +09 tunnel update +10' M seat. I have cleaned the DD and replaced the plastic magnet piece and bearings seem good. What is a good list of what else to do or check? I have spent near my limit already so the budget is tighter then a nuns cu$&. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
New M7 need advice
- Thread starter Shanerocks
- Start date
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arctic2009
Well-known member
Welcome to the forum man! lots of good info and good guys here willing to help you out with any problems you have. Sounds like you may have it pretty well covered. Depending on the miles I would maybe upgrade to the 10.4 secondary. Other than that sounds like you are good to go. Check the powervalves and clean them too.
When you have the track out change the drive bearigs on ea side of shaft. Stick with the 10inch sec just send it to m&m sports for their hub& bushing replacement. X-1 kit as well, sled will pull like crazy after. Change your mag side motormount as well, probably ripped. Get the heavier duro mount. Make sure your apv are clean and cables are indexed. Around 1.4 inches exposed cable. Ride the hell out of it!
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rmscustom
Well-known member
Great advice above. Almost all my M buddies are running the X-1 hub and bushing replacement with great results. If the motor is stock check into the injector perfector to lean out the fuel a little. Any bogs or running issues ditch the can. Some work some don't none add power.
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arctic2009
Well-known member
10 inch secondary sucks IMO. crappy belt deflection adjuster, need that cheesy tool to take it off in the field and a ratchet. 10.4 is a way better design and all you need is a 9/16" wrench to take it off. There's a reason they changed it.
Naw man, got newer bolt and billet alum cutler adjuster. I only need a 14mm socket to adjust or change belt. The stock 10 inch left me a lot of room and didn't have to change to a diff belt. The 10.4 drops the gear ratio also=more track spin. I have every clutch mod available, stm mounts, thunder abc kit, adj cutler weights, glide washers, cut cups, x-1 kit, m&m hub repair. Anyway the 10 inch works great for me.
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arctic2009
Well-known member
I suppose if you were doing all that it would be good. I'm just saying stock for stock, Id take the 10.4 but that's just my opinion, which doesn't really mean much
billet adjuster
The billet adjuster help you fine tune the secondary easier. The 10.4 helps on low end , but m7 runs great on top end and the 10.0 gives you more track speed. personal peference!!
The billet adjuster help you fine tune the secondary easier. The 10.4 helps on low end , but m7 runs great on top end and the 10.0 gives you more track speed. personal peference!!
Thanks for all the advice. I think I may wait on the 10.4 secondary and see how it is. Whats the best way to set up the rear suspension. I weight about 170-175 suited up.
If the Y pipe is not stock stay under 6,000 feet or it will stumble. Dump the orange spring. It is an 800 spring and you will never over come it. There is a lot of people who will disagree but there is a ton of posts on this. I had one and recommend the TT springs or their equivalent. Also holts and AMP made a relocation bracket where the skid hooks to the bottom front arm. You need one if it is not there.
Would the geo mod be equivelant?
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rmscustom
Well-known member
He cuts the stock hub off, replaces it with a steel one and puts a much better bushing in that will last longer than 500 miles. A must do to any M secondary IMO.
http://formulax-1.com/index.php Link to his website, it doesn't have any info on it but he does it.
i agree the Orange secondary spring is to stiff for the 7, as for the suspension setup i run the ski springs fairly soft so the sled lays over easy and on the rear the best I've found is limiters out all the way, front skid shock soft as it will go without the spring keeper falling off and rear torsion springs as stiff as they go.
No. Different suspension.
High quality repair to make the cat secondary diamond drive clutches work as they should. NO MORE BOGGING. Backshift instantly with the x-1 and keeps on shifting up. Bit more top end but BOTTOM END\BACKSHIFT is AWSOME. With traction it's awesome.
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