My new pro belt drive

[Ultrasauras]

gates belt

How much stronger is this belt , over the stock belt?

Ran a 3" piece or a tree through my track this week end between the track and rear skid wheels it went through there 3 times ruined the wheels and bent a rail and the belt never broke i was pretty impressed for sure.

 

[Teth-Air]

How much stronger is this belt , over the stock belt?

This is a good question but kind of misses the point. I don't believe the Gates Polychain belts are much stronger than stock BUT they contact the top pulley WAY more than the stock belt does. This is key as the stock belts are not breaking they are simply loosing teeth. There is at least 50% more contact at all times with the top pulley with the TKI kit and this spreads out the forces over more belt cogs. In addition the belt can always be kept tensioned properly where the stock belt loosens as it wears. Just pay for one helicopter ride and one OEM belt and you will then agree that this is money well spent. Not to mention the gains of gearing down not only provide quicker acceleration, it is easier on the clutch drive belt too.

 

[LoudHandle]

This is a good question but kind of misses the point. I don't believe the Gates Polychain belts are much stronger than stock BUT they contact the top pulley WAY more than the stock belt does. This is key as the stock belts are not breaking they are simply loosing teeth. There is at least 50% more contact at all times with the top pulley with the TKI kit and this spreads out the forces over more belt cogs. In addition the belt can always be kept tensioned properly where the stock belt loosens as it wears. Just pay for one helicopter ride and one OEM belt and you will then agree that this is money well spent. Not to mention the gains of gearing down not only provide quicker acceleration, it is easier on the clutch drive belt too.

I was inclined to buy your tether less tether system, but the more you post the less I am inclined to do so. IMO you are talking out your azz trying to sell a product you have not fully understood. So you are making up completely invalid reasons to buy it. The amount of wrap on the the small top sprocket has little to nothing to do with longetivity. In fact it lessens it, the more you bend it the faster you fatigue the fiber reinforcement that makes it survive. The Off the shelf Gates belt is far better than the Polaris spec'd copy, this is due to both better materials and better tooth profile choices. I have nothing against the belt drive you have chosen to sell, even though I choose the other brand. But sell it for what it is, not some made up bull sh!t. Again just my opinion based on my 30 years of research on ultra light sleds and associated drive systems.

 

[Boyko]

If I remember correctly a Polaris bulletin stated the new belt was 30% or 35% stronger

Does any one have the part # for the upgraded Q-belt. I got a used sled that has a new belt and want to see if it is the 2014 one

 

[ByDesign]

Maybe I missed it in the previous 3 pages, but what would be the weight reduction using the kit on a 11' pro?

 

[sledhead9825]

How are they standing up?

 

[AndrettiDog]

I have about 100 miles on my TKI belt. I choose it because I wanted to replace the QDS system for my '13 w/ Silber turbo. I went through two '13 drive belts and wasn't ready to spend $199 on the '14 belt and hope it holds up. The install wasn't bad except that the two bulkhead bolts are glued in. I had to heat them until they were glowing red for the glue to loosen. I also had to cut down the Silber pipe bracket to fit in the TKI setup. No big deal though. I bought an extra $80 belt and leave it in the trailer. Nice to not have to have a special tool to install the belts. My only disappointment is that this is what Polaris should have had all along.

 

[Dogmeat]

the correct P/N for the gates belt on these is 288810 right? Need to find a spare before a trip....

 

[Hillside]

If I already have a Turbo and stock belt drive but install this unit...

Will I need to retune my turbo? I was thinking chain case chain case but after further research I thinking this is the best product to replace the stock belt drive system. I fear every time I ride including tomorrow that it will leave stranded in the mountains.

The builder of my sled is excellent with turbos, the best in the business but getting service or support I always feel like I'm left hanging and the least priority. I know I'm not the only one, the thing is the product he builds is superior to anything out there. However, if tuning is not needed I'd rather order these parts and install them myself. I thought maybe I would have to retune because of the gear reduction.

Thoughts?

 

[mike_s]

I was inclined to buy your tether less tether system, but the more you post the less I am inclined to do so. IMO you are talking out your azz trying to sell a product you have not fully understood. So you are making up completely invalid reasons to buy it. The amount of wrap on the the small top sprocket has little to nothing to do with longetivity. In fact it lessens it, the more you bend it the faster you fatigue the fiber reinforcement that makes it survive. The Off the shelf Gates belt is far better than the Polaris spec'd copy, this is due to both better materials and better tooth profile choices. I have nothing against the belt drive you have chosen to sell, even though I choose the other brand. But sell it for what it is, not some made up bull sh!t. Again just my opinion based on my 30 years of research on ultra light sleds and associated drive systems.

So what you're saying is, if there are only 3 teeth of the belt meshing with the sproket it will be just as strong as if the belt wrapped around 75% of the sprocket? This is completely untrue. The more teeth you can engage to the drive sprocket the stronger the connection. This is simple unarguable physics, the more you can divide a load amongst a given area the better. The polaris design suffers from a fundamental design flaw, addressed in Gates' guidelines of power transmission using pollychain....that is never use fixed center to center designes in high load applications without a tensioner, and never load the belt in both directions. Polaris broke rule number one and two. Imo if one was to install a tensioner Move the brake rotor to the driveshaft, and perform no other modifications to the factory drive system, the common issues would vanish.

Just my opinion from 30 years of building custom snowmobiles, engines, heavy equipment, associated custom drive systems.....ect.

 

[LoudHandle]

So what you're saying is, if there are only 3 teeth of the belt meshing with the sproket it will be just as strong as if the belt wrapped around 75% of the sprocket? This is completely untrue. The more teeth you can engage to the drive sprocket the stronger the connection. This is simple unarguable physics, the more you can divide a load amongst a given area the better. ……………………………………………......ect.

That is not what I was saying, and if you design belt drive with a top sprocket where you only engage 3 teeth, you are an idiot. It is also my opinion that wrapping the top sprocket 75% or more, is idiotic as well (due to the reduction in belt life). Nearly as detrimental as a three tooth engagement.

My point was and is; if you wrap the top sprocket more than ~50% you are wearing the belt prematurely. Sure your tooth load goes down but at the cost of the belt lasting.

If you size the sprockets and belt properly you do not have the exaggerated dog leg that wears belts (or chains) out prematurely due to excessive flexure.

Run what ever you feel good about, it's your money.

 

[TKILLC]

Dogmeat

Part number is 8MGT-800-36 for the 13/14 pro.