My new pro belt drive

[COP-OUT]

The stock ratio is 2.09 to 1 if I'm correct. I had Indy Dan balance my clutches and he put in his clutch kit. with a Tied Team secondary. He said my sled a 13 pro 800 w/163 would benefit my weight with a 2.50 to one. Any way you can get close to that. I weigh around 275-280
I'm assuming that this can be installed with normal shop tools.

Thanks

 

[TKILLC]

Yes all of your normal shop tools, T40 star bit and a 14 mm wrench. I believe 17 mm to take off gears. To me that seems like a really low ratio, but Dan would know his gearing. I can get you to a 2.52 or a 2.42.

 

[LoudHandle]

What tooth counts are available for the upper and lower sprockets? I'm assuming the 36mm wide 8mm pitch Gates Carbon belts?

 

[TKILLC]

Yes it is a gates polychain belt 8 mmm pitch. We have had great luck with them with no problems. Toughest point to get across with them is they don't need to be tight. They prefer that you run them with a little slack. It's not like the old V belts on a alternator. Bottom is 63 top is 31 for stock gearing. We can go up or down from there.

 

[geo]

Any testing that would indicate less stress on the jackshaft bearing there? Does the belt actually run loose when hot?

 

[COP-OUT]

Replacement belts

Are replacement belts readily available. I'm assuming that all the different gear ratios use the same belt. Also what would a spare belt cost. Will this fit behind the stock can.

 

[TKILLC]

Belt are readily available. If you have a supplier you can buy them there or online. We sell them for 80 dollars per belt needed for that kit. Yes it will fit with stock can, and yes it uses same belt for all the ratios from 2.52-about 1.8.

Under load the tension between the jackshaft bearing and bottom bearing would be same as stock, but it would be less at other times due to it not being a stretch fit. So solving bearing failure probably wont happen unless you replace bearings. Bearings are a stock size that you can get from most bearing shops including NAPA. I would probably check it and replace it after a reasonable amount of miles, to be on safe side. Manufactures buy bearings in bulk and sometimes they will not be same quality as your individual bearings. I like to use NSK or even a Timken bearing. Koyo are a pretty good bearing for not a lot of money, but not the quality of the other two.

The belts will get a little looser with heat. But you also adjust it to be loose to start. About 1/4 to 3/8 deflection. With these belts you do not want to run them tight. There are carbon fiber cords built into the belt and you don't want to break them. I like to check it after you ride it a little and get it warmed up, make adjustments if needed then I leave it alone. Most all the belts we used last year never changed after you got them set, they would seem tighter at room temp. There is a lot of expansion and contraction going on a snowmobile, with all of the aluminum.

Thanks for all the interest and hope I am answering your questions to your satisfaction.

 

[FCR112]

Looks pretty good to me, nice work. How many did you run last season?

 

[COP-OUT]

If I buy one can I get a ride in your crop dusting plane.

 

[TKILLC]

I think you will have to ask wileybird, I don't have a plane but I do have some CNC mills you can run. I don't think 2 guys will fit and I am sure he doesn't like guys sitting on his lap when flying.

 

[COP-OUT]

I don't like guys sitting on my lap at anytime. Plane or no plane LOL. Except my 1 year old grandson. How do I put a deposit down on you product??

 

[TKILLC]

You can give me a call.

406-850-8091

 

[geo]

Doesn't look like Pol is offering a gearing change yet, so... have you made a Canadian connection yet?

 

[mountainhorse]

Tech Questions:

First What alloy are the sprockets made from?

Are they both the same alloy top and bottom?

What coating do you have on them...Speciffically what kind of ano and what are the specs on that anodizing? (Hoping for more info than just "hard ano Type-III)

Are the bearings in the idler packed with cold weather grease?

Can you post up pics of the kit NOT installed on the sled?

I've worked with syncronous belt drives on quite a bit of high hp power transmission. Each has it's own "pre-load" or tension requirements...Are you using a Gates "Crickt-it" gauge for tensioning?

Why no "guide shoulder" on the inside of the lower sprocket?

Nice looking product

 

[TKILLC]

The alloy is 6061 T6

Top and bottom sprockets are the same alloy along with the idlers and the adjuster arm and base that bolts to the sled.

I don't do my own anodize, I send all of my parts out to be done by a company that specializes in it. I can provide you with there number so you can call them and find out specifics.

The bearings are a standard off the shelf bearing that we buy from USA bearing here in town. I was unaware of bearings that have a winter grease in them. I know they make a cold weather grease, but cant find anything online that shows a different part number for bearings with cold weather grease already installed. I can call tomorrow and find out more, if I can get these type I am willing to use them instead of a standard sealed and greased bearing.

Pictures I can do I will post those after this reply.

As far as a tension, It is up to the owner of the sled to adjust it. Gates recommends 1/64 of an inch per inch between centers. So if center to center is 7.5 inches the deflection should be .1125 of and inch. There is also an equation that you can get it more exact but this is the simplest method. We ran the belts like they recommended (on the tight side I thought) and we also tested them with a 1/4 -3/8 of defection and they worked the same at idle. On a stand the 1/4 deflection, the track was more free than when it was with the almost 1/8 deflection. I personally run mine 1/4 to 3/8 and have had no problems or adverse belt wear.

The bottom gear does not have a flange because its easier to make. Gates said that with a 2 gear and one idler setup that 2 of the 3 should have flanges, but one is acceptable as long as the center to center distance isn't to great. That is why the top and the idler have flanges and not the bottom. They thought this was more than adequate on our design and they also thought that flanges on the bottom would add to much expense and would not benefit. We could of also made gears like Polaris with a flange on 2 gears opposite of each other. I decided on the ones we make I prefer 2 flanges per gear, just my preference.

Hope this helps.

 

[TKILLC]

Here is a picture of the kit without the belt.

 

[av8er]

what gearing would you recommend ?- TKILLC

Turbo with a 3"x162" track, 220HP, 230lb rider?????????????

 

[Blown Motor]

The alloy is 6061 T6

Top and bottom sprockets are the same alloy along with the idlers and the adjuster arm and base that bolts to the sled.

I don't do my own anodize, I send all of my parts out to be done by a company that specializes in it. I can provide you with there number so you can call them and find out specifics.

The bearings are a standard off the shelf bearing that we buy from USA bearing here in town. I was unaware of bearings that have a winter grease in them. I know they make a cold weather grease, but cant find anything online that shows a different part number for bearings with cold weather grease already installed. I can call tomorrow and find out more, if I can get these type I am willing to use them instead of a standard sealed and greased bearing.

Pictures I can do I will post those after this reply.

As far as a tension, It is up to the owner of the sled to adjust it. Gates recommends 1/64 of an inch per inch between centers. So if center to center is 7.5 inches the deflection should be .1125 of and inch. There is also an equation that you can get it more exact but this is the simplest method. We ran the belts like they recommended (on the tight side I thought) and we also tested them with a 1/4 -3/8 of defection and they worked the same at idle. On a stand the 1/4 deflection, the track was more free than when it was with the almost 1/8 deflection. I personally run mine 1/4 to 3/8 and have had no problems or adverse belt wear.

The bottom gear does not have a flange because its easier to make. Gates said that with a 2 gear and one idler setup that 2 of the 3 should have flanges, but one is acceptable as long as the center to center distance isn't to great. That is why the top and the idler have flanges and not the bottom. They thought this was more than adequate on our design and they also thought that flanges on the bottom would add to much expense and would not benefit. We could of also made gears like Polaris with a flange on 2 gears opposite of each other. I decided on the ones we make I prefer 2 flanges per gear, just my preference.

Hope this helps.

Above are the reasons that we have chosen to look at this product for our shop pro. If he doesn't have the right answer he will get it for you, and doesn't BS you into believing he knows all. Love the honesty and professionalism. Great idea, great product, let it snow so we can test it!!

 

[trackvs2wheels]

I agree, I like the way this guy operates

 

[Norway]

Above are the reasons that we have chosen to look at this product for our shop pro. If he doesn't have the right answer he will get it for you, and doesn't BS you into believing he knows all. Love the honesty and professionalism. Great idea, great product, let it snow so we can test it!!

Agreed, lotsa good vibes. On my list for sure!