Just replaced mine and it helped with erratic RPM’s. Sometimes it would be low and die and other times it would be fine. Now it’s spot on while idling.
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I changed my motor mounts and no improvement. The motor just does not sound happy anymore and idle is down. Looking deeper I have found 2 things. Idle voltage from the TPS was now at .99 volts were it used to be at .94 secondly here is what I found in the cloth bag above the motor. Still need to go for another ride to see if it is fixed.
I have a 16 axys rmk 800. Wondering should I replace the motor mounts with stock 16 motor mounts or use the “harder” 18 mounts?
Also is there a difference between the xcr/trail sled to the rmk mounts on the 18? Someone said they had diff part numbers..also do I replace the stock 16 torque arm rubber with the 18 torque arm rubber?
Thanks
I wold use harder 18 mounts or the mounts from the ProRide ProRMK chassis
The torque arm rubber is the same from about 2010 to current.
Thanks for the info I will do that!
Should I go with the 18 “rmk” mounts? Or the “xcr” mounts?
I have a 16 axys rmk 800. Wondering should I replace the motor mounts with stock 16 motor mounts or use the “harder” 18 mounts?
Also is there a difference between the xcr/trail sled to the rmk mounts on the 18? Someone said they had diff part numbers..also do I replace the stock 16 torque arm rubber with the 18 torque arm rubber?
Thanks
I checked my mounts last night and the ones on the MAG side look like sh*t, I did notice a drop in RPM this year but since I put a JAWS pipe and Dalton weights this summer I thought maybe I didn't have something adjusted properly. Going to bring it in for warranty, this is pretty sad just like the ski rubbers being shot right away.
I changed my motor mounts yesterday, and I was able to change the front PTO motor mount without removing the clutch (and if you have an aftermarket can, the mag side ones are probably changeable without taking out the can).
The old front PTO mount comes out fairly easily. I found it best to use a couple wobble extensions to get to the bolt, but after it's loose, it comes right out and you can work the mount out to the side.
It was a bit tricky to get the new mount in, but after spraying windex into the hole and on the new mount, it did pop into place past the stationary sheave with some pressure on the edge of it.
So the mounts can be changed without removing the clutch. The torque arm might be trickier though.
Glad to hear! This is my first and possibly last Polaris and I didn't want to buy a bunch of Polaris specific tools to do the job only to use them once and be out 100+ bucks.
What special tools are needed for this job of changing the mounts? I was not aware of any and I'm getting ready to change mine. Thanks YB