Motor Mounts causing low RPM in Axys Chassis

[Davajn]

I've just compared the pro-ride(left) motormounts vs axys(right) mounts. Its quite some difference in rubber hardness and its size.

The axys rubber i can squeeze together really easy, compared to the pro-ride ones that are much harder to compress.

The pro-ride ones are far better then the axys. They fit more snug in the mounts and less slop/play.
Might even go hardcore and try to put siliconglue or something where its no rubber, and put electricaltape around the rubber to make a really snug fit inside the mounts.

Saw that the rubber on the mount for the torquearm is busted on my axys. But on my pro-ride its still good, and that machines has almost double the miles!

 

[goridedoo]

Will the Pro Ride mounts fit in the Axys? Any thoughts on why they are so different?

 

[Murph]

I've just compared the pro-ride(left) motormounts vs axys(right) mounts. Its quite some difference in rubber hardness and its size.

The axys rubber i can squeeze together really easy, compared to the pro-ride ones that are much harder to compress.

The pro-ride ones are far better then the axys. They fit more snug in the mounts and less slop/play.
Might even go hardcore and try to put siliconglue or something where its no rubber, and put electricaltape around the rubber to make a really snug fit inside the mounts.

Saw that the rubber on the mount for the torquearm is busted on my axys. But on my pro-ride its still good, and that machines has almost double the miles!

The Axys rubber you have pictured is from the Mag side. The PTO side is square edged like the Pro-Ride. I have also thought about jamming a Pro Ride rubber isolator in there.

Don't bother with the electrical tape. I tried something similar with brand new rubber isloators and wrapped a single layer of Gorilla tape around it before install. One ride and the tape was ejected.

The Axys motor, with the lightweight crankshaft, moves a LOT more than the previous Pro Ride motor.

 

[black z]

The firing characteristics of a 2 cyl 2 stroke are inherently rough. I don't think Delrin would work, there just simply isn't enough slop for how much force is at work on the bottom end of these engines. A compromise between a poly and rubber mount durometer would be interesting.

 

[Teth-Air]

I wonder if it would be beneficial to fill those groves between the rubber with epoxy?

 

[xmk1080]

Windshield urethane would Bond better to the rubber and also absorb some of the vibration and not create more. The downfall is that it would be a pain in the *** to get them back out unless you did the mounts first, let them dry and then install them, which would also be a pain. Who put's a boat water impeller in a steel sleeve without bonding it together and calls it a motor mount? They started out with a nice design that didn't get finished!

 

[tuneman]

These mounts take the vibration out in all directions. Make them solid or with stiffer material and you'll shake your sled to death. The torque arm is what should be focused on, because the real issue is low rpm/slack belt.

The mag side mounts are chamfered because they don't have near the load as the PTO side. Even mounts would likely make the engine twist more.

I do see scrubbing in the pics, so I'd probably port/polish the cups and apply some sort of slippery lubricant to make them last. Then focus on a torque arm solution.

 

[MDEVO]

If they are rotating; your bolts are loose as well.

That's what I thought too, a broken bolt, however all bolts are tight?
I haven't taken apart, as my dealer says they will get covered under warranty for me??.

 

[mountainhorse]

.
The Axys motor, with the lightweight crankshaft, moves a LOT more than the previous Pro Ride motor.

Lightweight crank = more vibes





.

 

[richracer1]

Lightweight crank = more vibes
.

When I had mine apart for the installation of the 860 kit, I had SLP check the crank out and install it in the cases. They found that it was out of "true" a little bit in the middle (I was told, "it was a little high in the middle"). It did make a difference as it runs smoother now than when new. Even the brand new crank I bought for the spare 800HO was a little bit out of true, it's fixed now as well.

Having my primary spin balanced by Cascade Clutch Performance in Oregon also helped smooth it out.

 

[dude]

Not a big deal. Just have to remove muffler and primary clutch.

Torque arm mounting screws to case are a tight space but still pretty easy.

Anyone have anything more to add to how one replaces the mounts. It can't be that easy or is it? I assume one at a time? What tools are needed? Any helpful tricks? Etc...

 

[xmk1080]

Anyone have anything more to add to how one replaces the mounts. It can't be that easy or is it? I assume one at a time? What tools are needed? Any helpful tricks? Etc...

It is that easy, just make sure you have the axys clutch alignment tool.

 

[goridedoo]

FYI-

There has been a part number change on the PTO side motor mounts.
Old- #3022697
New- #3023290

If you are ordering through Babbits their diagram reference numbers for motor mounting parts are mixed up on some models (the 2017 155 model is one of them, ask me how I know). 5139042 is NOT the correct part number for PTO side rubbers, but rather the machined part that the front mag mount sits in. I tried to explain to the them the issue twice now but see it has not changed.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

I will get some pictures up mine and how blown out they are after 1000 miles. Same issues as others have complained about, low RPM and not able to gain it back with dropping weight, etc.

Checking over motor mounts today you can see almost 1/16" between the rubber isolators and the metal housing they ride in. I can easily move the tip of the primary bolt 1/4" in every direction. No wonder this sled has a hard time holding rpm.. and my C-C is short....

 

[HECKS]

Grab your primary and lift up on it, you will know right away how worn out your mounts are. Been changing these out every year on my Polaris'. Aftermarket torque stops as well.

Side note: I tried solid urethane bushings back in 2013, on my 2011 Pro. Increased vibration noticeably, and bad enough that within 2 rides it broke the piston skirts and went through the crank taking out the motor. Known issue with the skirts of course, but I believe it sped up the inevitable.

 

[dude]

For those who like me aren't mechanics... I just replaced my mounts and it was REALLY easy! Pull your primary off... then unscrew the bolt that holds the rubber mount in... then pull out the rubber mount and replace it with the new one, etc... Swap out each mount (one at a time) before moving to the next one so the other 3 mounts hold the motor in place while swapping. Pretty sure it took a 5/16th hex and about a 5 inch socket extension.

 

[LoudHandle]

For those who like me aren't mechanics... I just replaced my mounts and it was REALLY easy! Pull your primary off... then unscrew the bolt that holds the rubber mount in... then pull out the rubber mount and replace it with the new one, etc... Swap out each mount (one at a time) before moving to the next one so the other 3 mounts hold the motor in place while swapping. Pretty sure it took a 5/16th hex and about a 5 inch socket extension.

As they are metric; technically a 8mm (5/16" is very close, but slightly undersized, may lead to rounding out the Allen socket depending on the user). Otherwise, good info!

 

[Murph]

After installing new motor mounts you must re-check alignment.

 

[mountainhorse]

Murph,

Thank you for taking time to keep us up to speed on this issue!!

 

[goridedoo]

After installing new motor mounts you must re-check alignment.

I realize checking alignment is probably something that should be done on any sled but why would it change without loosening the front mag side mount when swapping mounts out? Variations/inconsistencies in new mounts? I swapped mine and was still within spec.