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Mod list for 2015 Viper MTX

After the 8DN belt and my clutch kit our Red Viper did over 800 miles with no belt dust and same 8DN belt. My blue Viper is all set but has no snow time to speak of yet.

Info for belt issue here,
http://www.ty4stroke.com/threads/losing-rpm-and-not-holding-normal-top-speed.126678/

From Ulmer Racing page note the 8DN performance, or if both these sources are wrong just do what DPG says.................

SR Viper Stage 1:

•Super Tip Weights
(Setup to your rider weight, track height, and riding style)


•Primary Spring


•Secondary Spring


•Custom Cut Helix


•$400 plus shipping



This kit can be adjusted for lower, smoother engagement, or a higher more aggressive engagement all depending on what you the customer wants!

Our "standard" settings will keep engagement nice at around 3800 rpm and very smooth and easy engagement for all around trail performance. The kit will increase acceleration, faster backshifting, and 1-2 mph gain on top end. It will also maintain RPM better when playing off trail as well.

This kit is very adjustable and can be easily adjusted for the future add-ons of an exhaust, intake, or even turbo.

NEW INFORMATION 3/20/2014

I will share what I have tested and what I have found using the RTX/LTX models as a testing reference.

1. 8JP belt with stock clutches will be limited to approximately 93-95 mph.

2. 8DN belt with stock clutches will be limited to approximately 103-105 mph.

3. 8DN/8JP belt with secondary setup properly will allow you approximately 113-115 mph. ***This is the option for naturally aspirated SR Viper models***

4. 8DN belt with both primary and secondary setup to match the belt properly will allow you approximately 120-121 mph. ***This is the option for turbo SR Viper models***

The stock secondary setup with the 8JP belt will stop your belt approximately 3/8" to 1/2" below the top of the primary clutch due to two reasons, the stock secondary will stop shifting at that point and this stops the belt from going any higher in the primary as well.

Now if you install an 8DN belt you can get the belt to approximately 5/16" from the top of the primary and gain some top speed in the correct conditions.

Stock secondary clutch travel is approximately 0.870" and after setting up the secondary properly you can achieve just slightly over 1" of travel (1.008").

Stock primary clutch travel is approximately 1.104" of travel and after setting up the primary properly you can achieve 1.317" of travel and get the belt all the way to the top of the primary clutch, leaving no clutch face surface unused, in the correct conditions.

We will offer primary & secondary machining/setup process for those that are interested. You can purchase a clutch kit to match it or if you already have a Ulmer Racing clutch kit I will modify it to work properly as well. If you want to continue to use your own clutching, but want the clutches machined properly with some advice on how to setup your helix/spring I can do that as well.
 
We really need some snow soon to answer all the Q,s on these sleds, I'm going as orderd then bitch. But until then it's deer season. Filled my elk tag and life is good. Never ever spend money till you ride it!:face-icon-small-win
 
Sorry but on the Viper you are wrong, our first Viper like most others had a belly pan full of clutch dust at under 50 miles. This is a very well known issue contact any clutch kit vendor if you still do not believe but please don't get people thinking an 8JP belt on a viper will go 500miles.

I only see DPG comments when they are quoted and as he continues to spout garbage I am surprised you are defending him. In fact his advice for "just ride it first" is downright STUPID and yet he does not know that. You want Viper readers believing garbage from some one that knows nothing about the Viper? Should they on advice from the Snowest forum go out and blow a few belts not knowing this is a known issue? You have a Viper coming wouldn't you like to know about that well known issue?

Well maybe DPG is a relative....lol.

I am talking about the ENGINE. Not the clutching. If you clutch it out of the box you are going to end up clutching it again in 500 miles when the motor can pull a few hundred more rpms. Yamaha clutches have been solid in the past, so while I plan on swapping to the 8DN, I will ride it stock first...because why not?

I've only seen one posted delivery of a 2015 MTX on the forum, so there is no evidence YET that they haven't addressed the issues the 2014 sleds had. That is unless boost it wants to pop in and tell us what they found in there.

I assure you I have zero affiliation with DPG, I'm a neutral party. The only thing I am biased towards is Yamaha.

Like anything else I want to set a baseline before I change anything and I would recommend anyone else do the same. That is basic tuning 101. Set a baseline and adjust until it works for the individual. My proclimb was supposed to blow belts every 52.6 miles according to the all knowing internet, but instead of spending money, I rode it first. Sure stock clutching can be improved but so far it has run 800 miles and I've only lost one belt. If it works for me, who cares what I've got under the hood?


Anyone know when I can get my sled? Snow is starting to fly and my thumb is twitching.
 
The MTX is going to be a little different in the clutching. Stiffer primary spring for one. Still going to need help though.
 
Why is the 2015 MTX going to require a stiffer primary spring ? Or are you again just spouting off because you have zero fact to support your statement.

Some folks might not want to have an aggressive engagement and choose a primary spring that's is not as stiff and keep there stocker....FYI stock primary springs are traditional not aggressive and for many riders that suits them just fine.

There is no such a thing as 1 spring that does it all for every rider....In my Cat in the 1st ride I plan to test Polaris blk/green 120-340 , Cat blk/red 120-310 & Cat blu/wht 120-320...bottom line there's a spring available for every rider weight and riding style

The 120-340 Polaris stiffer will be tested 1st, than the Cat 120-320 and last the Cat 120-310. I will keep notes on the result of each spring and come to my own conclusion as to what works best for me and not what I read on the Internet.

DPG
 
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iam usually pretty casual with my graphics but thought i would do something wild this time,thought the snake skin fit.:face-icon-small-hap
 
VIPER / PROCHASSIS RC SERIES FRONT BUMPER

http://racewerx.myshopify.com/colle...ducts/viper-prochassis-rc-series-front-bumper
100-301-RCFB-OR_large.jpg



http://racewerx.myshopify.com/colle...ts/ultimate-protection-pack-procross-proclimb
Racewerx_012_large.jpg



Here is what I saw on the show floor
yge6ysud.jpg


be8avy6e.jpg


beqa6yve.jpg
 
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cant see myself running a 550$ bumper:face-icon-small-sho yes thats what they cost can$,they look cool though.the boards are a cool idea but i did not like all the moving parts & did not see a price at the edmonton show.they make nice stuff but ouch $$$$$$$$
 
I run their front bumper on one of my 1100's but I haven't seen a 162 or 174rear. What do you think the 174 would cost? :face-icon-small-sho
 
Man-O-Man those running boards look surgical....Rear bumpers look really good.

The difference between men and boys is the price of the toys.

DPG
 
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