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Matryx weight loss

Who has run the carbon skid? Looks like about 4K without shocks.
-Is it really stronger than stock?
-I’m guessing it holds less snow
-is weight loss in the skid as noticeable?
I’ve been interested in this one for years, but haven’t seen many guys with them.
I thought about getting one with the USD being so strong I assumed a Canadian based product would be cheaper this season. contacted them and apparently they don’t follow the same dollar exchange rate everyone else in the world follows! Lol
 
Weight that is high or further away from the rider will be more noticeable in the handling department. Work from the skis, front bumper, and handlebars in and down. Ti bolts get expensive for what you gain so make them count. Changed about 30 bolts in the front end of my Cat and it saved right at 1lb for $200. Ti ski bolts and hardware before center chassis bolts. If you don't want to do Ti wearbars trim the extra threads on the steel mounting studs and center drill them. That saves a pound on 4 studs/ski and is free. Trim off any bracket or mounting tab that isn't being used on your particular model. Rotating mass reduction is good for handling and performance, arguable for reliability.

Most effective and free weight savings is removing the foam, because it holds a LOT of water and takes weeks to fully dry. This has been discussed at length.

Cost per pound of weight savings skyrockets after the obvious $$$-level items like can, battery, and lightweight clutch mods mentioned above.

Don't forget track... run a 2.75" to save pounds over the 3".

Another thing that's not discussed much, but is significant when it comes down to riding, is what you carry on the sled and where. Tunnel bags, packs and bar bags can add up quickly. Carry what you need for emergencies and repairs, and leave home what you don't.
That last item is huge. You can add 20lb to a sled real fast that you spend thousands shedding a few lb on. Be mindful of accessories and avoid adding big, heavy bumpers and guards if you can compensate with a little forethought in riding style and conditions.
 
Anyone weighed a khaos skid? Can’t imagine the carbon saves much weight if yours with raptors weighed 36lbs. Pretty sure last time I weighed a 155 axys factory skid with regular shocks (not piggy back) it was 38lbs.
 
What’s a good headlamp?

This is the one I carry if I think I'm going to be out past dark.
 
What’s a good headlamp?

My buddy milled a 1" flashlight to go-pro mount adapter out of plastic that weighs next to nothing.
I then grabbed a $99 Milwaukee 1000 lumen 1" flashlight with the red USB batteries. A handful of $30 batteries will last all night on high.

Multi-purpose as that light and batteries goes from my sled pack, to my dirtbike pack, to my hunting pack.

I haven't looked at the newer options, but the big drawback they all had a few years ago was they were rechargable. I wasn't going to live with a $250+ light that was only good for 2 hours and then couldn't swap a battery.
 
Chadly said it best earlier but no one wants to hear it - personal weight loss. Instead of spending several thousand dollars on a carbon fiber skid consider spending it on a personal trainer. Not only will you get lighter but your endurance will go up and your overall ride experience will improve. I would say concentrate on upper body strength. I rode with Cole Wilford a couple years ago and he is an amazing athlete ( and excellent instructor). His upper body strength is off the charts and the stuff he could do with a snowmobile was incredible. Yes technique is everything but there are times when you just need to grab your sled and make it behave. There is nothing like upper body strength to be able to do that.
 
Ok, swapped track on a 22' khaos 155 yesterday. Complete factory 155 Khaos skid weighed 42lbs. Someone earlier in this thread mentioned their carbon skid was 36lbs with raptor shocks. Thats a lot of money for 6lbs of weight loss. On the carbon website they say 26-28lbs complete skid, id guess thats with the fox floats and 26lb skid is the 155 (28lbs the 165?). Complete cost $4700 with floats. Thats about $293/lb weight loss if the carbon 155 with floats is 26lbs.
 
Ok, swapped track on a 22' khaos 155 yesterday. Complete factory 155 Khaos skid weighed 42lbs. Someone earlier in this thread mentioned their carbon skid was 36lbs with raptor shocks. Thats a lot of money for 6lbs of weight loss. On the carbon website they say 26-28lbs complete skid, id guess thats with the fox floats and 26lb skid is the 155 (28lbs the 165?). Complete cost $4700 with floats. Thats about $293/lb weight loss if the carbon 155 with floats is 26lbs.
Waste of money! ?
 
? When I had too much time (like right now), I put everything into an excel doc and did some calcs. Mostly $/lb lost and $/% hp:weight and ranked them to help take care of the cheap weight first.

Carbon skid was basically the last thing to do. Even Ti spindles and ski hardware were a better deal.
Hey I'm a spreadsheet nut - I want a copy!!
 
I have done a few lightweight sleds. A couple years back I bought the Dan Adams LW sled he called the Outlaw. It is LIGHT. About 45lbs off stock. All the usual stuff plus a carbon skid with fox air shocks all the way around and 7.3 gal gas tank. With that gas tank ready to ride it was 70 lbs lighter than a stocker with 10 gal of gas. 80% of our rides are 4-6 gal. Sled really performed will as I am 250lbs and ride with a lot of LW riders lol. That said my new 9R is going to remain stone stock. this is the best sled I have ever owned, super easy to ride andI can get ANYWHERE the outlaw got me but its just easier and no hassles at all. I think you need to go big if you are going weight loss so you can really FEEL it and see the extra performance, like at least 35lbs but the cost and hassles don’t really pay off in where you can get to or the fun you have which is what I think its really all about. BTW I have a can and Skinz hood for the 9R and I’m going to sell them lol. I like quiet and a headlight and the stock hood storage.
 
? When I had too much time (like right now), I put everything into an excel doc and did some calcs. Mostly $/lb lost and $/% hp:weight and ranked them to help take care of the cheap weight first.

Carbon skid was basically the last thing to do. Even Ti spindles and ski hardware were a better deal.
Did the same thing with my Cat. Had several different builds with different parts and power adders. Definitely worth the time to layout the options.
 
Burandt's weigh in videos had me curious so I pulled it back out. Id suggest using it as a template and not trusting any of the numbers, especially because they are claimed by the mfg and other liberties are likely taken


If any of my old numbers are accurate, the can, hood and tank get you 2/3 of the way there
 
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