M7 Project Sled....More pics to come
- Thread starter Phizzer
- Start date
Looks nice but will it interfere with the throttle cable? I wouldnt want it to vibrate and start leaking grease everywhere.
It won't interfere with the throttle cable. I was actually messing around with my bar setup last night and found something interesting.
The SnoPro throttle block from the 600 Racer accepts the M7 throttle cable perfectly. I was expecting to have to buy a different throttle cable but this one fits perfect. However, with the adjustable post, I am either going to need to upgrade to the newer style cable, which I am not sure is the same end, OR try to find a throttle cable extension kit, which I think AC makes? and use that.
The SnoPro throttle block from the 600 Racer accepts the M7 throttle cable perfectly. I was expecting to have to buy a different throttle cable but this one fits perfect. However, with the adjustable post, I am either going to need to upgrade to the newer style cable, which I am not sure is the same end, OR try to find a throttle cable extension kit, which I think AC makes? and use that.
I have one that's made by powermadd, it is a long extension, it accepts the m7 throttle cable and the firecat throttle cable(same ends, different length) Honestly running an extension kind of scares me because whats stopped moisture from getting in there and then freezing? Sure you put white lithium grease in it but there's always a chance to have a run away sled. I would opt to get a new throttle cable to be honest. How long is your cable? I have an extra firecat cable laying around, mine may be longer. They have different part numbers. 0687-155 & 0687-168
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A
arctic2009
Well-known member
I have the adjustable post and I honestly never even move it. It stays down all the time. Haha
Once I get the post assembled I will have a better idea on what length I am going to need. I will measure mine once I get back to my house. I think the firecat had a taller factory steering post than the M7, so that might work.
I wasn't going to go with the adjustable post. I originally had the T Post adapter and a set of risers. But with the post I had, I just didn't like the riser combination. So this option came up. But I agree, more than likely, I will be riding with it in the lowest spot.
I needed to order a new mag side motor mount because the old one was cracked. I should have that by the beginning of the week. I am looking for the green loctite that AC uses to secure the motor mount in the right spar and I cannot for the life of me find any. I've gone to all of the local stores like Napa, Autozone, etc. and all I can find is various forms of either red or blue or is in no way high strength. So I have been looking online, is that what you guys are using?
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37423...&qid=1391235414&sr=8-1&keywords=green+loctite
If it is, I am going to just order some tonight as well and hope it shows up with the parts!
http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37423...&qid=1391235414&sr=8-1&keywords=green+loctite
If it is, I am going to just order some tonight as well and hope it shows up with the parts!
Gotta look for locking compound and not the thread sealant. Took me a while to figure it out. I use it for press in fittings.
I went with the newer style adjustable steering post. Which the stock kit, does not fit the older M7 without drilling a new hole in the bulk head. Since I have a brand new bulk head, and already re-enforced the steering plate, I opted to to go a different route.
I bought a used post off the forums swapmeet. You can see in the picture where the socket is that I had welded. The top half is basically casted and machined. I just cut out the newer style "bottom half" from this socket, and replaced it with the bottom half of the stock M7 post. I don't see why this wont be just as strong as before. I installed it this afternoon and everything seems to line up correctly.
My question is about my brake line cable with the newer PC bars. I would like to actually put another bend cable end, to get it closer to the center o the bars, but I have never attempted to try and don't even know if it's possible. What do you think? Should I just leave it?
I bought a used post off the forums swapmeet. You can see in the picture where the socket is that I had welded. The top half is basically casted and machined. I just cut out the newer style "bottom half" from this socket, and replaced it with the bottom half of the stock M7 post. I don't see why this wont be just as strong as before. I installed it this afternoon and everything seems to line up correctly.
My question is about my brake line cable with the newer PC bars. I would like to actually put another bend cable end, to get it closer to the center o the bars, but I have never attempted to try and don't even know if it's possible. What do you think? Should I just leave it?
Which a-arms did you use? I am in need of a new set.
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I went with a set of Holz arms which I don't think are in production anymore. I found a guy who had a new pair in packaging that I picked. You can get the wider ski stance like the HCR's with these, but I have my ski's tucked in all the way anyways.
If I were to buy another set, which that time will eventually come when I wipe these ones out
I'll probably go with the BDX set. They are fairly cheap and widely available.
If I were to buy another set, which that time will eventually come when I wipe these ones out
I'll probably go with the BDX set. They are fairly cheap and widely available.I think i have an extra brake cable from a firecat which is just a straight end, with no bend on it.
Did you end up measuring the throttle cable and determine what you need? I have that extra one still.
Koso Dual EGT Install
I picked up a used Koso gauge from a member off of Snowest and have began installing it. This is the dual egt kit with 2 new fast response probes. The directions on the website aren't the best for an install, so I did as much research as I could before installing.
I decided to mount the probes 4.5" away from the piston skirts. The directions state to get it as close to the junction as possible, and others have had good luck at this distance, so I went ahead and measured and drilled 2- 9/32" holes. The probe fitting doesn't sit completely flush, instead I wanted it to ride on the base of the cone. I am short one ferrell and mounting cap for the mag probe, but I should have one a couple days.
The gauge was fairly straight forward to mount. The mounting bracket supplied works perfect for all applications. I used rivets to mount the bracket to the steering post. I then notched out the plastic cover so that it gave a nice clean look to it. Now all is left is to wire to power and tie a few things up.
Will I have any problem tapping into the DC power for my heat grips? I am currently not running any so the plug in is available and I am assuming it is DC. I don't really want to pull power off my fuel pump, although I know tons of people have done it.
I picked up a used Koso gauge from a member off of Snowest and have began installing it. This is the dual egt kit with 2 new fast response probes. The directions on the website aren't the best for an install, so I did as much research as I could before installing.
I decided to mount the probes 4.5" away from the piston skirts. The directions state to get it as close to the junction as possible, and others have had good luck at this distance, so I went ahead and measured and drilled 2- 9/32" holes. The probe fitting doesn't sit completely flush, instead I wanted it to ride on the base of the cone. I am short one ferrell and mounting cap for the mag probe, but I should have one a couple days.
The gauge was fairly straight forward to mount. The mounting bracket supplied works perfect for all applications. I used rivets to mount the bracket to the steering post. I then notched out the plastic cover so that it gave a nice clean look to it. Now all is left is to wire to power and tie a few things up.
Will I have any problem tapping into the DC power for my heat grips? I am currently not running any so the plug in is available and I am assuming it is DC. I don't really want to pull power off my fuel pump, although I know tons of people have done it.
4"/100mm from skirt for egt's .
I would highly recommend an aftermarket Y pipe.
I would highly recommend an aftermarket Y pipe.
Hmmm. Everything I have read indicated 4.5" or basically where the Y-pipe begins to bend. According to this measurement, I should be running in the range of 1250 -1350. At 1250 the pistons good, at 1300 if I dont make some adjustments im in trouble, and at 1350 that baby is glued to the wall. A few others have used this setup to monitor temps and this is the route I chose.
And why would you recommend an aftermarket Y-pipe? I have had a few friends try them at altitude and had very little success with them on the M sled. In fact, some of them actually hindered the performance. I would definitely try one if you have had some success.
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the 09 800 uses a Y pipe like the 700 and the 800 HO uses a less restrictive design like the aftermarkets.
Just thought I would through out the suggestion. As for the half inch diff in the egt placement not a big deal.
Just thought I would through out the suggestion. As for the half inch diff in the egt placement not a big deal.
Right on. I am going to try this setup, (stock y, pipe) with a SLP can and see how it works. Ordered some DEI TI 1" wrap for the pipe. All I could find in town was 2" and I personally think that the 1" looks better when wrapped properly. I should have the exhaust buttoned up by this weekend.
Only DC on our sleds is from the fuel pump. Everything else is AC. You can find AC/DC rectifiers and plug it into one of the accessory slots. I have tried the KOSO and it is a piece of junk. But i have one off of ebay i am going to try see if it is stronger.
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