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Ok Im going to start this thread to try and help guys out on the Turbo Pro:
Please help everyone out by adding to the list, alot of common problems out there that will help everyone,Im sure I'll miss alot of them.
Reasons for hitting det sensor:
1) Low octane
2) To High of compression for boost levels (see up to 6 psi and 3 degrees timing pulled from 4500/4800-8500rpm linear will work on most air/air and non intercooled kits)
3) To Lean
4) To Rich (det Lash)
5) excessive vibration(engine rubbing,loose motor mount etc
6) Over reving ( not enough weight in primary) clutch issues
7) To high of intake temp 200+ degrees
8) TPS calibration out of wack( on 2012 check for water underneath tps boot at the TPS sensor)
9) Low fuel pressure
10) Bad fuel filter
11) Tank vent plugged (seen it once now,pinched line after install)
Other Fueling concerns/issues:
Dobeck box-
A)Dobeck style boxes (attitude,Pure logic etc the box should scroll on start up. When the box scrolls it should do it fairly quick and return to the solid green light at the number 1 position. If the box takes some time to return to the number 1 green position it may be an indicator that the tps needs to be calibrated.
B) Another test for turbo setup is to remove the boost line and blow into the boost reference line going into the box and it should flood the engine,if not your boost sensor inside the box may be bad or some other issue.
Boondocker Box-
A) As of this year I only know of a few different issues with the Boondocker,hopefully you guys can add to this write up. EBC fails and causes engine shutdown or inaccurate boost readings (controlling issues). The wiring harness plays a major role having bad pinouts or grounding issues causing failures in the electronics. Hook up factory injector wiring and see if problem persists at low rpm.
Guys please add to this because there are more issues, I cant remember all of them.
Electronics issues-
2012 Polaris pro:
The 2012 pro seems to have the most issues to date over the 2011, what I have found is that the velcro wrap above the primary clutch holds moisture ,by removing the velcro wrap it lets the moisture disperse. Another idea is to use Dielectric grease on all the connectors including the TPS to rid some of those issues. Dont forget about the speed sensor wires and fuel pump wires located on the left side in front of the gas tank and the chassis relay located above throttle bodies just below the hood.
P.S. Dielectric grease is not a cure all,if anyone has a better product than dielectric please speak up. I know in the past there has been differences in opinion on using it.
This is what we have discovered on the Polaris Pro's so far while testing with the Vi-pec. The polaris electronics specifically the TPS,speed sensor and reverse switch itself plus the pinout at the ECU are a issue. Make sure all grounds are tight at the shock tower (front left) and the bolts which hold the clutch cover are also very tight.
Voltage issues- So far we have seen bad stators, bad voltage regulators,loose grounds. Check to see how many amps your electronics are pulling from the system. If you are getting a low volt light on the dash it could be any of these issues above including overload on the lighting coil side of that stator. Remove one item (like your 02 sensor and see if it goes away).Might be an indicator of low power source. Also seen to low of RPM at idle will cause this light to come on, but remember raising the idle to much may affect your TPS which will intern affect your reverse function.
I will add more as it comes to mind,remember this is a tool for everyone so please share your experiences. Hope this helps someone along the way to a boosted future
Added on 1/28/12:
After testing Boost on the Vipec I think we have figured out a couple interesting things. The pro is very sensitive when it comes to overreving and then nailing the DET sensor. We have been testing with a UDX datalogger which is used on alot of funny cars and top fuel dragsters so it is definitely very fast but the tach signal is wierd because the there are so many poles on the stator that it seems if the signal speed is slow. After datalogging with The Vipec ECU I recalled the statistics on the ECU and it showed the highest we ever reved was 8937 RPM and we did a recall on the RMK dash and the highest it showed was just over 8300.
Another issue we are addressing right now is timing: The timing on the pro itself as a stock setup or slightly modified is not an issue. The timing curve for those setups is spot on. Boosted timing setup is where we see the issue, at midrange cruise throttle with almost every setup we have seen they run cool on the pipe and as soon as you hit the throttle to advance the pipe is cold and when pipe heats back up quickly you hit the Det sensor. The Vipec is an awesome tool for this because we are able to make a advanced ignition table to correct this issue. More info to come
Please help everyone out by adding to the list, alot of common problems out there that will help everyone,Im sure I'll miss alot of them.
Reasons for hitting det sensor:
1) Low octane
2) To High of compression for boost levels (see up to 6 psi and 3 degrees timing pulled from 4500/4800-8500rpm linear will work on most air/air and non intercooled kits)
3) To Lean
4) To Rich (det Lash)
5) excessive vibration(engine rubbing,loose motor mount etc
6) Over reving ( not enough weight in primary) clutch issues
7) To high of intake temp 200+ degrees
8) TPS calibration out of wack( on 2012 check for water underneath tps boot at the TPS sensor)
9) Low fuel pressure
10) Bad fuel filter
11) Tank vent plugged (seen it once now,pinched line after install)
Other Fueling concerns/issues:
Dobeck box-
A)Dobeck style boxes (attitude,Pure logic etc
the box should scroll on start up. When the box scrolls it should do it fairly quick and return to the solid green light at the number 1 position. If the box takes some time to return to the number 1 green position it may be an indicator that the tps needs to be calibrated. B) Another test for turbo setup is to remove the boost line and blow into the boost reference line going into the box and it should flood the engine,if not your boost sensor inside the box may be bad or some other issue.
Boondocker Box-
A) As of this year I only know of a few different issues with the Boondocker,hopefully you guys can add to this write up. EBC fails and causes engine shutdown or inaccurate boost readings (controlling issues). The wiring harness plays a major role having bad pinouts or grounding issues causing failures in the electronics. Hook up factory injector wiring and see if problem persists at low rpm.
Guys please add to this because there are more issues, I cant remember all of them.
Electronics issues-
2012 Polaris pro:
The 2012 pro seems to have the most issues to date over the 2011, what I have found is that the velcro wrap above the primary clutch holds moisture ,by removing the velcro wrap it lets the moisture disperse. Another idea is to use Dielectric grease on all the connectors including the TPS to rid some of those issues. Dont forget about the speed sensor wires and fuel pump wires located on the left side in front of the gas tank and the chassis relay located above throttle bodies just below the hood.
P.S. Dielectric grease is not a cure all,if anyone has a better product than dielectric please speak up. I know in the past there has been differences in opinion on using it.
This is what we have discovered on the Polaris Pro's so far while testing with the Vi-pec. The polaris electronics specifically the TPS,speed sensor and reverse switch itself plus the pinout at the ECU are a issue. Make sure all grounds are tight at the shock tower (front left) and the bolts which hold the clutch cover are also very tight.
Voltage issues- So far we have seen bad stators, bad voltage regulators,loose grounds. Check to see how many amps your electronics are pulling from the system. If you are getting a low volt light on the dash it could be any of these issues above including overload on the lighting coil side of that stator. Remove one item (like your 02 sensor and see if it goes away).Might be an indicator of low power source. Also seen to low of RPM at idle will cause this light to come on, but remember raising the idle to much may affect your TPS which will intern affect your reverse function.
I will add more as it comes to mind,remember this is a tool for everyone so please share your experiences. Hope this helps someone along the way to a boosted future
Added on 1/28/12:
After testing Boost on the Vipec I think we have figured out a couple interesting things. The pro is very sensitive when it comes to overreving and then nailing the DET sensor. We have been testing with a UDX datalogger which is used on alot of funny cars and top fuel dragsters so it is definitely very fast but the tach signal is wierd because the there are so many poles on the stator that it seems if the signal speed is slow. After datalogging with The Vipec ECU I recalled the statistics on the ECU and it showed the highest we ever reved was 8937 RPM and we did a recall on the RMK dash and the highest it showed was just over 8300.
Another issue we are addressing right now is timing: The timing on the pro itself as a stock setup or slightly modified is not an issue. The timing curve for those setups is spot on. Boosted timing setup is where we see the issue, at midrange cruise throttle with almost every setup we have seen they run cool on the pipe and as soon as you hit the throttle to advance the pipe is cold and when pipe heats back up quickly you hit the Det sensor. The Vipec is an awesome tool for this because we are able to make a advanced ignition table to correct this issue. More info to come
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