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Kreating Khaos, 162" extreme and other easy mods

Robert,
Your going to like your sled from what I’ve seen.
I just picked up a set of Khoas rails for my ‘19 163/162.
The Khoas I rode this weekend was a hoot. It’s a trickster for sure. Not for everyone.
I want to see what the mod does to my woodticking(tree riding).
 
Once you have the drivers matched to your track(center to center). Install only the drive shaft in your chassis. Do a complete bolt up. Then measure from your tunnel to the near driver on each side. This will tell you if the drivers are centered in the chassis. The chassis doesn’t allow much room for error here, It can cause your track to rub along with misalignment of your rails.
As long as you have it out, blueprint it. Free horsepower with less rolling resistance.1576692638624.jpeg
 
Once you have the drivers matched to your track(center to center). Install only the drive shaft in your chassis. Do a complete bolt up. Then measure from your tunnel to the near driver on each side. This will tell you if the drivers are centered in the chassis. The chassis doesn’t allow much room for error here, It can cause your track to rub along with misalignment of your rails.
As long as you have it out, blueprint it. Free horsepower with less rolling resistance.
Good point Tony,
Ive never tried to shift/adjust the drivers on the sled if they were off slightly, only while out and on a press. Have you ever done it? I suppose if someone needed to they could make a clamp like a strut compressor.
Glad you enjoyed the Khaos rails, I did really like the set up last winter/spring, pretty fun, maybe Burandt will call it "Flicky" this year instead of flickable lol.
 
Installed the Skinz protective gear Bash plates yesterday. Pretty quick and easy. There is one chassis rivet you need to drill out with a 3/16", other than that it fits perfectly and was even strong enough that when I used my portable sled dolley that it didnt push the belly pan into the clutch or the quick drive. Excellent protection from rocks, stump and junk under the snow. IMG_8226.jpgIMG_8227.jpgIMG_8230.jpgIMG_8231.jpg
 
Good point Tony,
Ive never tried to shift/adjust the drivers on the sled if they were off slightly, only while out and on a press. Have you ever done it? I suppose if someone needed to they could make a clamp like a strut compressor.
Glad you enjoyed the Khaos rails, I did really like the set up last winter/spring, pretty fun, maybe Burandt will call it "Flicky" this year instead of flickable lol.
Robert,
I should have been more specific, sorry.
You have to take them back out and adjust them with the press. Can’t do it in the chassis.
 
I don't care what the haters think, that adjustable AND HEATED brake lever is FANTASTIC!!!
I also have their throttle block. NO MORE ICE IN THE THROTTLE FLAPPER GAP!!!.

I want to know more about the Everett ankle savers!!!!
I'm headed to the website. AWESOME IDEA!!!

Next little safety item is as many of you know or have experienced is the toe hoops are too small on the Axys. I tore the meniscus in my right knee from this and really messed up the rest of that season. Everett's ankle savers are cheep insurance and they can be set up custom to your style of riding. I run mine at about a 45* angle (different than some) so I can still get as far forward as I need, yet not get locked in the sled if things go wrong. Quick and easy to install and supports a fellow Snowest'er at http://everettsports.net/anklesavers.html
Yes, you could bend your hoops, Ive tried that and it worked, but there was no adjustment after doing it. I also cut them on my 2017, but when I sold it, some buyers weren't impressed and walked on the sale. These dont modify anything and if you want, they can be taken off and moved to your new sled...Money well spent.View attachment 334530View attachment 334531View attachment 334532View attachment 334533
 
I just got my clutches back from Dan at Indy Specialty. They do an excellent job of machining them to the proper tolerances and balancing each peace separately then re-balancing as a whole. That might seem extreme until you've rode with them, cooler belt temps and longer belt life from the proper cuts and angles and the balancing extends the life of your crank bearings. You can see the difference with the lower vibration on the ski tips and feel the difference in the handlebars. Dan normally has a quick turnaround but they just moved their entire shop to a huge new location a few months ago. This took lots of time and Dan is a perfectionist, they are catching up with demand and can get you back on the snow pretty quick now. For me, they are worth the wait, you can check out their clutching options here: https://www.indyspecialty.com/clutching or you can call a couple of fellow Snowest'ers that are dealers like CV customs and AK Full Throttle customs. IMG_8238.jpgIMG_8243.jpgIMG_8244.jpg
 
A little info on what the clutch service includes at Indy Specialty:
Primary Clutch:
- Disassemble
- Clean
- Machine both sheaves to correct specs.
- Balance inner sheave by itself
- Then reassemble clutch & install weights and set sheave clearance
- Remove weights and final balance complete assembly.

With this type of balance service you never have to worry about balance again, even if you tear your clutch down and re-shim the spider the clutch will always stay in balance because the it was balanced in separate pieces first.

Driven Clutch service:
- cleaning/polish
- machine sheaves, inspection
- assembly and balancing
They highly recommend using their secondary delrin washers in the secondary
b0a1ca_32f50db9cb6b4472a6381f0bc1a8159b.jpg
a9a8d9_c97ed771ab1c48b2a9df88be06bb66f5.jpg638af3_27121e42f8814bb7a503514d5df1f102~mv2_d_2560_1920_s_2.jpg638af3_1cb81d718c594dd79e3d21164953a77e~mv2_d_2560_1920_s_2.jpg
 
I don't care what the haters think, that adjustable AND HEATED brake lever is FANTASTIC!!!
I also have their throttle block. NO MORE ICE IN THE THROTTLE FLAPPER GAP!!!.

I want to know more about the Everett ankle savers!!!!
I'm headed to the website. AWESOME IDEA!!!
Hey Scott, I agree! I think the Skinz heated brake lever is awesome, Ive taken it off my last couple of sleds before I sold them because I knew the buyers would make me keep it on there as part of the sale lol.
As far as the Everett ankle savers, it's easy to adjust them like I did to for the people that still like a toe hold, but dont want to get stuck. I angle mine forward based on the size of my boot. These are effective, not sure why Polaris hasn't paid this guy off and just raise the hoops. This is another little mod you can quickly take off and put on your next sled.
 
I just got my clutches back from Dan at Indy Specialty. They do an excellent job of machining them to the proper tolerances and balancing each peace separately then re-balancing as a whole. That might seem extreme until you've rode with them, cooler belt temps and longer belt life from the proper cuts and angles and the balancing extends the life of your crank bearings. You can see the difference with the lower vibration on the ski tips and feel the difference in the handlebars. Dan normally has a quick turnaround but they just moved their entire shop to a huge new location a few months ago. This took lots of time and Dan is a perfectionist, they are catching up with demand and can get you back on the snow pretty quick now. For me, they are worth the wait, you can check out their clutching options here: https://www.indyspecialty.com/clutching or you can call a couple of fellow Snowest'ers that are dealers like CV customs and AK Full Throttle customs. View attachment 336469View attachment 336470View attachment 336471
Dans cover extends roller and bushing life.
❄️❄️❄️❄️❄️
 
Dans cover extends roller and bushing life.
❄❄❄❄❄
Agreed! Not only is the TRU-Shift cover stronger, It runs cooler with more air movement with less heatsink. It's surprising how much the clutch towers flex with the factory cover, plus this is balanced better than stock. Its a good way to build up your clutches as an initial investment, because you can take it off your sled when you sell it and put it on your next one. The bushing is better than stock and easy to change with just an allen wrench compared to the stock that needs to be pressed in and out.
 
If you remove your primary clutch for maintenance or sending it off make sure you wipe the crank taper off of all oils. Make sure there are no burs or galling on the shaft as well as on the clutch. Once installed torque it to 80lbs, then I loosen the retaining bolt and re-torque it again. I do this again after running it to make sure its seated well. This is the only thing on the sled I re-torque. Use a clutch holding tool like this one from SLP or others to hold it still. You can buy the tool on Amazon for $48 here: Amazon product ASIN B00E0S6JH6IMG_8247.jpg
 
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Are you running Dan's weights? I had him balance and install his mountain kit and weights in my clutches. Everything looks great!
 
I am so impressed with Dans setup, I also did the balance,machine and trushift cover along with a full sea level clutching kit. Silky smooth and lowest heat Ive ever had in my clutchs
 
Question, and you guys may not know the answer. I had my primary balanced by Indy but didn't do the cover or anything other than stock for this year. Looking at your clutch cover it looks like that wasn't balanced hence the drill marks. If a person were to buy a cover in the future, does that come balanced?
 
Question, and you guys may not know the answer. I had my primary balanced by Indy but didn't do the cover or anything other than stock for this year. Looking at your clutch cover it looks like that wasn't balanced hence the drill marks. If a person were to buy a cover in the future, does that come balanced?

It comes balanced by itself if you buy it separately.

But bolting it onto your Polaris clutch means it needs to compensate for the cast clutch’s inherent imbalance.
 
I received my clutches from Dan today. Those were the last piece I was waiting for. Assembled everything together and started the sled up. Adjusting the track tension and making sure the track is centered inside the tunnel. I ride elevation wise 6 - 9 thousand feet spend most of the time in the trees.

First thing I did notice track engagement was at 4200 rpm while on the stand. Is that to high of engagement rpm should I adjust the weight to bring the engagement rpm down?

Second how loose should the track tension be? As loose as the track can be before it ratchets? It does have IceAge rails and anti-stab.
 
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