Kreating Khaos, 162" extreme and other easy mods

[Prayn4snow]

anything done for the pull cord?

Hey Ditchbanger, this is what is good about forums, finding out what works and what doesn't for people and how to solve issues that may come up with stock or aftermarket parts. We tested several cans last year and melted a few pull cords. The 850 uses a pulley below the dash to angle the pull cord, however by doing this it is closer to the bend in several aftermarket cans. SLP was the 1st I seen to recommend removing this pulley which is what I did last year and will be doing again this year. Removing the pulley is simple with a T-40 Torx and a 13mm socket, zip tie any wires that will be in the way of the rope. Also note the harmonics of the cord on the 850, does anyone have a video of the rope vibrating through the rpm range? I will add a few pics later. SLP has a video recommending removing the pulley at @ 1:45 in their instruction clip.

 

[DITCHBANGER]

Diamond s relocates it down a bit. The pulley keeps the rope at a close to straight pull out of the recoil housing. I removed the pulley at 1st but not liking the angle it creates on the pulley housing. Looks like it will wear into it and possibly wear the rope. Have you seen any issues with pulley removed? Btw i wrapped the neck of the diamond can with heat wrap..no miles yet though

 

[Prayn4snow]

To compare the fitment of the factory pipe look at the clearances below. Really close to the plastic side panel on the right side. Some of my riding buddies have dented this area of the pipe from hitting things and bending the stock bumper. Also the insulation cover is notched to make room for the over structure pipe. If you have the carbon fiber over structure make sure to wrap it with heat tape no matter what brand pipe you put in.

 

[snobyrd]

Do you know the angle of the helix recommended do the spi pipe?
I believe they use a blk white sec venom spring.
I got a pipe comming after Erik advised me last week to try spi

 

[colorado_matt]

Love the project and very well documented pal! Looking forward to getting these builds on the snow. I'll have one very similar to this one and think many other people will as well.

 

[Prayn4snow]

Love the project and very well documented pal! Looking forward to getting these builds on the snow. I'll have one very similar to this one and think many other people will as well.

Thanks Matt! I will be touring with Paul Thacker again this spring so I will be back to visit you guys.
A quick side note for anyone that has never met or rode with Matt Entz. He is one of the most talented riders on the planet yet one of the nicest most humble guys you will ever meet. His love for God, country, family and snowmobiling make him a great ambassador to our sport. I encourage anyone to take one of his Avalanche classes or call him or my friend James (one of his guides) for an unforgettable trip. Stop by the grocery store 1st and pick up some humble pie, you might need it

Mountain Skillz

Explore the majestic San Juan Mountains of Colorado with an experienced guide! Technical snowmobiling workshops. OHV/RZR Tours

mountainskillz.com

 

[Prayn4snow]

To compare the fitment of the stock pipe (pics above) to the extra clearance of the Strightline Performance pipe below. Last pic is the factory pull rope pulley that some companies have you remove or relocate it lower.

 

[krillnecks]

can you take pics of the pipe and can in one pic pelase?

 

[Prayn4snow]

Diamond s relocates it down a bit. The pulley keeps the rope at a close to straight pull out of the recoil housing. I removed the pulley at 1st but not liking the angle it creates on the pulley housing. Looks like it will wear into it and possibly wear the rope. Have you seen any issues with pulley removed? Btw i wrapped the neck of the diamond can with heat wrap..no miles yet though

Yes, your right Ditchbanger, they offer this bracket for those that want to keep the pulley. I haven't had any issue with the pulley removed, but I might try the bracket just to check out the difference.

 

[Chadly]

Yes, your right Ditchbanger, they offer this bracket for those that want to keep the pulley. I haven't had any issue with the pulley removed, but I might try the bracket just to check out the difference. View attachment 334737View attachment 334738

Funny I got zero instructions on the install let alone the bracket with my Diamond S can. I ordered it from Burandt but it dropped shipped from Diamond S. I just removed the pulley from experience with my SLP on my other 850.

 

[Prayn4snow]

Funny I got zero instructions on the install let alone the bracket with my Diamond S can. I ordered it from Burandt but it dropped shipped from Diamond S. I just removed the pulley from experience with my SLP on my other 850.

Hello Chadly, You need to request it from Diamond S Mfg. That's why I said above that they "offer" it. Sorry I didn't clarify better. Here is part of a message they sent me: "We have a "fix" we designed, we were sending it out last year with our exhausts. We did quit sending it out because the titanium doesn't hold in the heat and we didn't have any problems. Also, I know we are about 3 weeks backordered right now so I'd order soon

" . "Thank you, if you order put in the comment section you would like a pull rope kit.. we will put it in."

 

[Prayn4snow]

can you take pics of the pipe and can in one pic pelase?

Sure! One thing you will notice when you have a ceramic coated can and pipe is how well they hold the heat "inside" the pipe. This is another performance gain and makes a difference on how crisp the sled runs. I take a laser temperature gun out with me on rides and a decibel meter I think I will take my thermo camera out as well and get some pics to help show what is going on under the hood to your clutching, belts etc.

 

[damx]

I took the pulley off with my diamond s can. the pull cord on the 850 moves like 3" when you rev it up, even with the pulley relocated it's to close for me.

 

[Prayn4snow]

I took the pulley off with my diamond s can. the pull cord on the 850 moves like 3" when you rev it up, even with the pulley relocated it's to close for me.

Your right about the cord movement on the 850! About 12 posts up I was asking if anyone had a video of the harmonics of the pull cord. It's crazy how much it moves that is one of the reasons people were having melted cords. Maybe it was AKFullthrottle that had a video??

 

[damx]

Yup.! I think it was akfullthrottle on his Instagram, that I seen the video.

 

[AKFULLTHROTTLE]

I do, not letting me load.

 

[Prayn4snow]

Next on my list is better control with RSI handlebars, RSI Billet throttle block, way better heat with RSI bar insulators and RSI plug and play grip heaters and Skinz Protective gear heated & adjustable Brake lever.
The only control options you get "If" you snow check a new sled is High, med or low handlebars. They are all the same width about 27-3/4" wide, and the RSI bars are wider but many people like myself prefur to cut them down narrower than stock. I usually only go about a 1/2" narrower than stock. To keep my cut straight I use a tubing cutter to start the line then use a hacksaw to finish it. These RSI bars are tough, you will see in the pics they are 3/16" thick.

 

[Prayn4snow]

Be careful taking the small clips off the brake lever and throttle block. You can transfer the new Skinz heated brake lever right to the factory brake assembly. Keep in mind the orientation of the parking brake spring it likes to go flying. I like to ride with just thin mechanic gloves as much as possible so I like good grip heaters. Part of the secret to keeping the heat is using cork or better yet the RSI grip insulators. They fit bars with up to 8" grips so you will need to cut them down to the size you want. I like to cut them down to 4" and the same with the RSI grips. This fits the RSI plug and play heaters perfectly. The RSI insulators (part #GH-L2) are heat shrink so you will need a heat gun and they fit tight quick. Next, check where you want the wire to come out, then remove the 3M backing tape and wrap the RSI heaters around the insulator. Finish with a single wrap of electric tape at the ends to keep them in place while installing the grips. I like the RSI aluminum 10 degree handlebars part # AB-5-B, they are stronger than stock have the same curve, but ready to cut down to your desired size. They have a lot of choices on bars! Next, if your hard on grips I would use RSI grip stay which is a 2 part epoxy grip adhesive that will really hold them on there. Once mixed I just put some on the inside of the grip which helps it slide on. Then I cut the end off flush with the bars and wait 12 hours for the best grip strength. Now you can install the bar hooks from your stock bars.

 

[Prayn4snow]

Ive had some questions about the grip heaters. This might answer your questions from their website. It says they are Hi power elements with OEM Polaris connectors. RSI Grip Heaters get hotter than stock and get hotter faster: http://rsiracing.3dcartstores.com/POLARIS-GRIP-HEATERS_p_80.html
The RSI grips when installed over the RSI bar insulators are slightly bigger (1/8") than stock which fits your gloved hand better.

 

[Prayn4snow]

If your like me, it's to easy for the stock kill switch to get bumped especially when rallying through the trees or up a steep technical climb (Murphy's law kicks in and you get stuck). Ive tried moving it to different spots on the bars like under the crossbar, but then it can be difficult to get to it if you add a bag such as Sled Solution handlebar bag. Plus the stock plastic throttle block freezes up easy. The solution for both is the RSI Billet Throttle block. It's smaller than stock, giving you more needed space on the bars for accessories like hand-guards that I will be installing soon. It also does away with the plastic kill switch and replaces it on the front with an easy to reach "momentary button" that you hold down so if it's bumped during riding you don't get stuck. You can even take it off and put it on your next sled so it holds its value. The plug and play one for the 850 is here: http://rsiracing.3dcartstores.com/POLARIS-BILLET-THROTTLE-BLOCK_p_66.html
It's easy to instal if you notice on the pics below there is a small clip on the end of the throttle cable and the throttle paddle pin that you will need to keep an eye on. The factory safety switch slides right in behind the new kill switch as well as seen below.