It Has Begun, CR500 Build, WIP part 1

[SEOINAGE]

Replaced all the parts above. And now I decided I need a new clutch lifter arm, doesn't seem to engage properly and it is worn out. Unfortunately it is on back order.

Also I had to split the cases again after I had it all together. Broke a case bolt. It is wide open right now, but I got the bolt out. Will put it together this week all except the stator side with the lifter arm.

 

[SEOINAGE]

Ok it does work.



In this picture it is missing some parts from the swing arm that make up that gap, realized it after looking at some other people's build pictures.

I cut the Y out, cut off some extra junk and old motor mounts we can't use. Top of the Y is prepped, need to prep the bottom, and refit the motor, and cut the down tube a bit to get the proper clearance for the pipe, then a little more prep work and then I will be ready to work on the bars that space the gap, the motor mounts, lower and front, and then the headstay. After that will be little things like pipe mounts, radiator modifications if needed at least on the exit angles etc. Then get the air box adapter modified.

 

[Hazard]

SEOINAGE,
I was enjoying your build love the CR500, how's the project progressing?

 

[SEOINAGE]

SEOINAGE,
I was enjoying your build love the CR500, how's the project progressing?

Glad you are following it. Right now I have the frame prep work done as far as cutting and repurposing the y piece, just need some time to go to the welders and get some input, and see what scrap they have, and order what else I need for it. Running out of parts I need, but keep finding new ones, like need a newer exhaust manifold that has more spring holes for the newer year pipe. Then need the rubberized pipe mounts. Some fresh cables. But otherwise main focus is getting this y, engine mounts, and headstay mount figured out.

 

[Hazard]

Sounds good looking forward to seeing pictures of that beast on the snow !

 

[wwillf01]

Glad you are following it. Right now I have the frame prep work done as far as cutting and repurposing the y piece, just need some time to go to the welders and get some input, and see what scrap they have, and order what else I need for it. Running out of parts I need, but keep finding new ones, like need a newer exhaust manifold that has more spring holes for the newer year pipe. Then need the rubberized pipe mounts. Some fresh cables. But otherwise main focus is getting this y, engine mounts, and headstay mount figured out.

Make sure to replace all engine mount bolts... The mistake I made was mine were as tight as the threads could go but the bolts were so stretched mine vibrated like crazy...


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[SEOINAGE]

Sounds good looking forward to seeing pictures of that beast on the snow !

For sure, I intend to keep things well documented.

Make sure to replace all engine mount bolts... The mistake I made was mine were as tight as the threads could go but the bolts were so stretched mine vibrated like crazy...


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Yeah I was looking at them the other day. And they do look ragged. I might be able to use one of the bolts off of the crf450, length looked about right. I don't think I can use the stock bolts since the aluminum motor mounts are thicker than the steal ones. Not sure what the best option is in buying a replacement bolt for this application, if it needs to be a slightly different size, rather than just get something at the hardware store, I want the right bolt. I noticed in the lower triple he snagged an ordinary bolt for one of the clamps, I would rather avoid that.

 

[Corban_White]

Check McMaster Carr for the bolts.
www.mcmaster.com

 

[M5-]

I've done this a few times now, when guys part out sleds they end up with like 100 plus bolts and they throw the whole works on Ebay. Usually you can buy them for about $20 for the works and it gives you a really awesome selection of metric fasteners for dirt cheap. Look for Yamaha sleds as their bolts are top notch. Back when I was building sleds like crazy it was super handy to have tons of factory hardware.

M5

 

[n16ht5]

I got a set of stainless hex head bolts off ebay for $30

 

[SEOINAGE]

Lots of progress today.
Got some metal yesterday. Managed to fab up motor mounts, extension pieces, and majority of headstay. They are going to tack weld a few pieces on monday. Unfortunately the headstay might end up a bit wonky, the rod broke, guy couldn't bend it, and so we salvaged what little we could, and made it work positioned right under the headstay mount location, with some brackets that drop it down. Will see how it turns out, but should be fine.

 

[wwillf01]

Lots of progress today.
Got some metal yesterday. Managed to fab up motor mounts, extension pieces, and majority of headstay. They are going to tack weld a few pieces on monday. Unfortunately the headstay might end up a bit wonky, the rod broke, guy couldn't bend it, and so we salvaged what little we could, and made it work positioned right under the headstay mount location, with some brackets that drop it down. Will see how it turns out, but should be fine.

View attachment 256601View attachment 256602

Make sure to use nord locks on every bolt possible you will thank me later... I use them on my ski mount for sure ... That bolt will come loose if not guaranteed


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[LoudHandle]

Lots of progress today.
Got some metal yesterday. Managed to fab up motor mounts, extension pieces, and majority of headstay. They are going to tack weld a few pieces on monday. Unfortunately the headstay might end up a bit wonky, the rod broke, guy couldn't bend it, and so we salvaged what little we could, and made it work positioned right under the headstay mount location, with some brackets that drop it down. Will see how it turns out, but should be fine.

View attachment 256601View attachment 256602

Who ever you got helping you with the aluminum, has not done much with it or they should / would know that alloy won't bend without taking the temper out of it. If you need to bend something and still be strong afterwards get the shape in 6063-T6 (NOT! 6061-T6). Also if you want some stock steel metric bolts I have a fair selection from 3 PRO RMK's as I have replaced every fastener with Titanium or Aluminum. PM me the sizes you need and I'll give you a good deal on them.

 

[SEOINAGE]

Who ever you got helping you with the aluminum, has not done much with it or they should / would know that alloy won't bend without taking the temper out of it. If you need to bend something and still be strong afterwards get the shape in 6063-T6 (NOT! 6061-T6). Also if you want some stock steel metric bolts I have a fair selection from 3 PRO RMK's as I have replaced every fastener with Titanium or Aluminum. PM me the sizes you need and I'll give you a good deal on them.

Thanks, I will get dimensions next week. I don't think he does actually, the guy that is doing the welding wasn't available, and didn't expect him to have troubles, as he acted like it would be easy.

 

[SEOINAGE]

Make sure to use nord locks on every bolt possible you will thank me later... I use them on my ski mount for sure ... That bolt will come loose if not guaranteed


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Great, I had heard about them before, but almost completely forgot, thank you.

 

[SEOINAGE]

Well things are mostly coming along nicely. Having some issues with the headstay, but probably going to scrap what I am working with, and use a traditional headstay.

Pipe all fitted up nicely, and going to work on the coil mount tomorrow.

Did some polishing up and slight modifications to the engine mounts, much happier with them now.

I ended up having the pipe line up perfectly with the hole that holds the rear fender. Which is really nice, because I was having issues with placement had I used the tab I was going to put on there.

One other thing I had to modify, was the collar for the front muffler mount, when you tightened it, the washer would connect with the metal before it even clamped the rubber down at all, so I ground it down to where it gets just tight enough.

 

[summitboy]

You do not need to Nordloc every bolt. Blue loctite is your friend on the CR500. Red on the engine mount bolts. What i found is when u powdercoat your frame (steel frame) and you tighten all the engine mount bolts down (front and bottom) the vibration doesnt loosen the bolts. It slowly eats the powder away from the bolt holes until the powder is gone under the bolt heads and now you have a loose motor. I ended up using Nordlocs under the front and bottom with red loctite.

On the AF frame the vibration is worse especially with a Smartcarb lol. Ur gonna need it all !

 

[SEOINAGE]

Pretty much done, will be drilling holes in the headstay base tomorrow. then get it welded up asap.

Some of the pics are of in process.

 

[M5-]

Just some food for thought. If it were me I would chamfer all the edges of the block you made prior to welding it specially where it tapers down to a point, you will end up with a much better bite when you weld it which will end up being much stronger.


M5

 

[SEOINAGE]

Just some food for thought. If it were me I would chamfer all the edges of the block you made prior to welding it specially where it tapers down to a point, you will end up with a much better bite when you weld it which will end up being much stronger.


M5

Will do this morning. I had debated doing so on the engine mounts But figured didn't need it.