installing a turbo on my IQR.. Have questions.

[yz400ex]

Your stuff looks really good.. I thought about going with a garret turbo to begin with, but wasnt sure which one to use and to be honest, for the price I paid for this setup I just couldnt pass it up.. I will attempt to use this for awhile.. if it fails, I will look into other options then.. As far as using a 700 pipe, that really isnt much of an option for me with the IQR. I already have an IQ 600 SLP pipe that came with this setup, that I might try to cut and twist to make it fit into this chassis, but if not, I will just buy a stock 600R pipe.. They are very strong also.. I REALLY appreciate everyone feedback and information on this.. It has been and is going to be a ton of help.. Gus, I know I will probably be emailing you with some of the questions I have.. wont be about the turbo, but everything else.. Again, thanks for the advise.. I will have pics of this stuff up soon..

1 quick question.. my 2 gauges I have on the bars.. Is one of those my fuel pressure gauge? I noticed I didnt have one on the regulator itself so kinda thinking this is it..

 

[Ryanlilly]

Post some pictures, it will be easier to tell what you have.

 

[yz400ex]

For sure!! Should be able to get some up tonight..

 

[champyfz450]

If it helps, here's a few pics of my engine bay. It's an 800cfi but it might help with the piping and placement

Fwiw I wouldn't use either the slp or the 600r pipe(also an slp pipe I'm pretty sure) as neither of these IMO will hold up to boost. I've seen so many slp pipes split I wouldn't take the chance

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

there are some seriously simple steps to keep them from splitting. people claim that you CANT run XP pipes without them splitting, but we have on on a turbo'd sled with at least 1000 miles this season and not a single crack.. its dumb easy how to keep it from cracking and most are working harder not smarter on it.

as for gagues, on a carby sled, boost, fuel pressure and afr are nice to have all at the same time as i bet 90% of your tuning issues can be fiured out using fuel pressure. im betting it has boost and afr on that bars as those are 2 you really want to keep in check. but who knows. pics would rock. i just had boost and afr on my dash forever and then had fuel pressure down to the side where i could see it if i was troubleshootin. juust didnt need more mounted up high ot break.

 

[yz400ex]

Thanks guys.. I will get some pics posted tonight after work.. I am going to do a mock up on the sled tomorrow so w=knowing what is what will help me in mounting this stuff up also..

Champ, what are you using for a pipe on yours?? The stock 800CFI?? If so, did you have to cut/twist/weld it up again?

 

[champyfz450]

Yes it is a stock 800cfi pipe cut and rewelded then ceramic coated. It was done by the guy that built the sled. He goes by allanhanes@hotmail.com on here, very talented guy. Let me know if u need more pics

 

[yz400ex]

Ok here are some pics of some of the stuff.. There are 2 small cylinder pieces mounted next to each other with lines going in and out of them. The other picture is of a small cylinder type part that kinda looks like a battery. Has 2 wires coming off of it. There is also a small black square box with 4 prongs on it that also attach to the battery lookin part.. What exactly are these parts?

Also on the fuel Reg, is the line coming out of the side with the small nipped, the piece that attaches to the gauge?

What are each of these gauges for also??

I think I can get a CFI 700 pipe.. Would this pipe work very well on the 600HO carb motor?

Thanks for all the help everyone..

 

[Ryanlilly]

Your kit is identical to mine. The electrical is all part of the hobbs switch, you won't need it. Did it come with a fuel pump?

As far as the gages, I believe one is for pipe pressure and one is air box pressure.

 

[yz400ex]

So everything electtical I pictured is for the hobbs stuff that I dont need? the square box, the battery lookin thing, the 2 small cylinder parts with all the hoses going in and out of them?? I know that 1 of those has a line that runs from it to the power jet on my turbo. Where would I hook that up from?? As far as the fuel pump goes, yes I did get one of those also.. I believe I have everything needed to make it work.. Now on the gauges, not sure, but it looks like one of the gauges has a line that is just long enough that it would run to where the fuel regulator would mount.. If not and it would in fact go to the airbox, what would go to the fuel reg line then? Also, the pipe does not have anything tapped into it to measure pipe pressure..

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

alright, because the pictures arent the same as holding them in my hands, ill explain what i know.

the square deal is a bridge rectifier, you hook your 2 12v ac terminals to 2 of them and you get dc + and - out of the other 2 terminals. the circular battery lookin deal is a capacitor, it stores electricity when it gets extra and that way if you have slight spikes in demand over what its suppling there is extra electrical.

as for fueling wiring, yours is setup kinda goofy. ill get on paint one of these days and make you up a nice simple schematic.

im guessing the boost gauge that goes higher is rigged up as a fuel pressure gauge as its going to be about 3-5 psi above boost.

for doing pipe pressure, you can just weld a little threaded peice on then plumb a short peice of brake line or any hard line in about 12" on the fat part of the pipe facin in(least flow throught it) then just go soft line to your pressure reg. i should have some spare time one of the next few days i can sit down and talk with you some throught a lot of the stupid little details that will hopefully get you rippin in no time. carb turbo kits are simple and run rather well, but just need to be started in the right direction.

 

[yz400ex]

Thanks for the help on this.. After reading through that turbo post I have a "pretty good" idea on how to do a few things, but can always use more help.. for me, having someone explain it while I am looking at it usually works much better than reading it anyway.. I will get with ya one of these times I am standing at the sled and looking at the turbo..

 

[Ryanlilly]

Looks like I was steering you in the wrong direction... Sorry. I was going off what I was told with mine. Since mine is still sitting in a box I haven't messed with it yet. Post details if ya can, that way I can refer back later, lol.

 

[yz400ex]

I will definately keep this going.. I want to be able to reference back on it when I build another turbo setup also.. Since we are doing the same thing, we can for sure compare notes during these builds also..

 

[turbolover]

Your regulator should have 2 nipples on it. One that has fuel pressure that goes to the guage. The other should come from the AIRBOX not the pipe. This is what the regulator references off of to keep the pressure 3-5 psi above boost levels.
There will be a nipple on the airbox that will go to the regulator, boost guage, wastegate actuator, and the tops of both carbs. It's going to look like Medusa when you're done.

Maybe I'm missing something but the fuel pressure regulator is referenced off of airbox pressure.
Why in the he!! Is everyone saying to put a port in the pipe to get this? The last thing I would want is to port over 900* - 1300* exhaust gasses to the controller running the fuel. Even if you get REALLY GOOD SILICONE hose, its going to melt the crap out of any hose that you put on there. Once you melt that hose you no longer have boost referenced fuel pressure and you WILL go lean. If you have 7 psi fuel pressure (not referenced above boost) and 9 psi boost, the boost pressure can push air into your fuel tank from the carb through the regulator. No fuel and you will go lean faster than you can shut it down.

The hottest your airbox will get is a couple hundred degrees and that is if you heatsoak the crap out of it with a really long pull and no intercooler.

GI Jones

 

[gus bohne]

Your regulator should have 2 nipples on it. One that has fuel pressure that goes to the guage. The other should come from the AIRBOX not the pipe. This is what the regulator references off of to keep the pressure 3-5 psi above boost levels.
There will be a nipple on the airbox that will go to the regulator, boost guage, wastegate actuator, and the tops of both carbs. It's going to look like Medusa when you're done.

Maybe I'm missing something but the fuel pressure regulator is referenced off of airbox pressure.
Why in the he!! Is everyone saying to put a port in the pipe to get this? The last thing I would want is to port over 900* - 1300* exhaust gasses to the controller running the fuel. Even if you get REALLY GOOD SILICONE hose, its going to melt the crap out of any hose that you put on there. Once you melt that hose you no longer have boost referenced fuel pressure and you WILL go lean. If you have 7 psi fuel pressure (not referenced above boost) and 9 psi boost, the boost pressure can push air into your fuel tank from the carb through the regulator. No fuel and you will go lean faster than you can shut it down.

The hottest your airbox will get is a couple hundred degrees and that is if you heatsoak the crap out of it with a really long pull and no intercooler.

GI Jones

Because in the 22 yrs I have been doing it that way you never run out of fuel volume at any boost level and the temps are nowhere near what you think..

FYI, EVEN KTM is now using MY technique on their mx bikes to operate the ex valve !!! with nothing more than 1/4 inch vacuum line !!!!!

Many thought the heat would be an issue.. Now even the OEM knows its not..

Once you understand the relationship of fuel delivery Before boost build you'll get it..
Its NOT mandatory, many still get along fine using the airbox .
For higher boost longer duration pulls on the hammer you damn well want fuel pressure 10 psi over boost.

When you try it, and see that your engine runns the same, you then can surmize the fact that even at the higher pressure you still have NOT overcome the demand for fuel and its not flooding out ?? tells you you still need more to be safe at the 30 [si plus level.

I used this method in the 1988 selds and it was the END to all fuel handling issues.. you can run your base pressure at 2 psi for clean response on and off the throttle too..pipe pressure should be 3-5 minimum over boost, so fuel pressure will rise in advance to boost and will be that same 5 psi over your base.
In my applications for drag racing and speedruns we see 12 -14 psi fuel pressure over boost and have @ dynotech the smoothest fuel flow numbers EVER for a turbo 2 stroke !!! primative carbs they say !!!!! LOL still doing exactly what we tell them too...

Dooin-it, I think his engines electical system is so far ahead of the one that old capacitor was designed for it would be moot for him to use that antique program..

he has all the current he needs to run it like the doo carbs directly from his 12 v dc charging lead..
i could be wrong though as I am no polaris pro tuner for sure.

Gus

 

[yz400ex]

Alright, started to mock everything up yesterday.. I think I can get everything tucked away pretty good, but still easy to get to. I have a few more questions for you guys though..

The Aerocharger turbo setup on the previous sled had it where the intake was on top and the charge tube and exhaust were pointed to the front of the motor. I have found it is going to be MUCH easier if I can change the orientation of the way the turbo is mounted. I would need it to have the intake on the backside and the exhaust and charge tube on the top. I thought I had read somewhere that these Aerocharger turbo's were designed specifically how you were going to run them and if the way it is mounted changes it needs to sent in and something changed inside to make is oil the turbo with the new orientation.. Is this true or can I just turn the turbo the way I need it and set it up that way?

Next question is about fuel delivery. Due to the race chassis having limited space under the hood, can the line coming out of the fuel pump (a few inches from the fuel pump) have a 90 degree fitting put in the line to clear a piece it would hit. This would ensure the line isnt pinched at all.. How does this sound?

This is what I have so far.. Thanks for all the help so far everyone..!

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

as for the aero, not sure, never played with em much, as far as your fuel lines, no issues.

Sorry with guidance, warm water and the ocean are distraction.

 

[yz400ex]

Doo, I completely understand.. If I was hanging out where you are, I wouldnt be much good to anyone either.. haha.. sounds like you are having a good time at least..

Any else know about the orientation setup on the Aerochargers??

 

[gus bohne]

When you reclock the aero you need to make sure the center section moves with the compressor exactly..
the vane rack and rod will need to be reset when you finish.

If your not familiar with it you can e mail me or call and I'll work you thru it.

they havent changed internally since 1984..

the last item is the mount for the controller, it might need to be changed or drilled to mount on the turbo at the new position.

as long as you do not change from vertical to horizontal mounting the oiling will be the same too. its just wick like a candle in a puddle of oil with the other end above each STEEL ball bearing.


Gus