Installation and Review: Mountain Performance Inc, Stage 1 & 2 Supercharger

[christopher]

so I just removed the pulley and belt and un hooked the gems box and rode it home.

First Off, Congratulations on a amazing field repair!

Second, you have addressed a question I have had.

What happens when the Supercharger fails.

I have wondered if it is possible to ride the sled with a dead supercharger?

I had guessed you would have to disconnect or cut the hose connecting the supercharger and the inter-cooler to allow enough air into the system for the engine to run.

But it sounds like you were able to suck air in through a non rotating supercharger and still ride the sled home????

 

[irondave86]

I did not disconnect the intercooler, (WAY too difficult in the field) I just disconnected the GEM'S and the belt and it rode home fine. i could only make 7000 rmp's or so (Due to the heavy clutch weight), but it got me back to the truck. fingers crossed i never have to do it again

 

[christopher]

Very Cool.
So it IS possible for the engine to pull air in through a dead supercharger.
I would have never guessed.

THANKS!!

 

[christopher]

Installation and Review: Mountain Performance Inc, Stage 1 Supercharer (Part 6)

125. Install the Idler bracket and the Idler wheel assembly onto the frame bracket using 2 M8x25 socket head cap screws. Use a little blue Loctite on each bolt & torque to 20 ft-lbs.

Mounting slot for the Idler Arm.

This one mounts like a dream.
Add a dab of Lock Tight.

Tonight I realized I do NOT have a set of socket based Hex keys.
So when I went to torque this one down, I couldn't use my normal Alen keys because the bend in the key was shorter than the width of the Supercharger belt. Just ment I had to torque them on the short end of the key...

 

[christopher]

126. The jam/adjuster bolt pre-installed into the idler bracket is the correct bolt for most ratios. If you find that the range of adjustment required is different, please install the alternate jam bolt provided in the kit.

127. Once the idler is installed, back the adjuster bolt out as much as p
possible (the longer adjuster bolt hits the frame). Loosen the main idler bolt just enough so that the idler will slide.


Showing how loose the belt was BEFORE tensioning

Begin the process of cranking down the main screw.

As it tightens down the deflection begins to appear.

 

[christopher]

128. See Figure 71. Belt adjustment. Snug M12 main tensioner bolt/ nut so that the tensioner barely slides. Adjust tension with the M8 Adjuster bolt. The long side (lower) of the belt should NOT be able to touch the other side of the belt as it runs over the idler pulley. It should require about 15-20 pounds of force to make the long side of the belt move ¼” (15 to 20 pounds of force equals ¼” of deflection). Gates and others sell an inexpensive Tension Tester p/n 7401-0076. Once desired tension is set with adjuster M8 Bolt, tighten main M12 nut and bolt. Push idler against adjuster bolt as you tighten. The idler will tend to walk out, making the belt tighter. Recheck belt tension after the M12 bolt had been tightened. Tighten M8 adjuster jam nut.

NOTE: RECHECK SET SCREW TORQUE and BELT TENSION AFTER FIRST 5 miles OF RIDING! Then recheck every 100 to 200 miles.


Using the default bolt, I cranked it all the way down and set the Lock Nut.

Set my ruler behind the belt to measure deflection.

And use that handy dandy little pressure gauge I bought to see the actual belt tension at 1/4 inch deflection.
RIGHT ON THE MONEY!

FINISHED.

 

[christopher]

BATTERY WIRING & DRY SUMP OIL INSTALL

129. Reinstall the OEM battery in the stock location. You should have relocated the starter relay mount to the battery hold-down earlier. Connect the Red positive wire to the battery’s Plus terminal and the ground wire
to the battery’s Negative terminal. Note that the ground wire coming from the lower front right side of the engine case (just under the supercharger. The wire is length limited and should be routed behind the vertical coolant hose. The positive cable should face the front of the sled (do not install it so that it faces the right side). Likewise, the negative cable should face the rear of the sled (do not install it so that it faces the right side). Be sure to connect the ground plug off of the ground cable’s battery connection back to the main harness. See Figure 72.

Still toying with the idea of one of the Lightweight battery replacements...
For now the full size goes back in.

 

[christopher]

130. Install the OEM starter relay onto the relay mount on the battery cover. Also install the main fuse to this bracket. The Red Cable going to the battery should be at the rear of the relay and the black cable going to
the starter should connect to the front of the relay. You will have to loosen the bolt holding the red cable to the relay, rotate the cable so that it faces rearward and retighten the cable. Likewise, the front black cable going to the starter should be rotated so that it faces forward. See Figure 73.

132. Collect the wires passing under the relay and zip tie them together to prevent chafing. See Figure 74.

 

[christopher]

133. Flush and clean the OEM oil tank (you might be surprised what you find on the internal screen of the lower pickup (the 90 degree elbow on the bottom of the tank).

Sure enough, mine was plenty dirty..


134. Remove the lower oil hose from the bottom right side of the motor. Replace the hose with the slightly longer 5” x M16 hose provided. Use a black OEM spring clank to attach the motor side 1st. See Figure 75.

 

[christopher]

135. Reinstall the tank using the billet spacer between the tank and the bulkhead. Use 2 provided M6x30 Flange Head Bolts. The slotted hole faces forward and the channel in the spacer faces the frame (not the tank). See Figure 76.


This is the upper mounting point for the spacer bracket.

NOTE:
After speaking with several other riders I decided to replace the OEM Oil tank with a T.S Fabrications HD Nytro Oil Tank.

For full details on this product please read this thread.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=276570

 

[christopher]

136. Connect the bottom of the oil tank to the hose you just installed using a black OEM spring clamp. Rotate the clamp so that the ears will not hit anything. See Figure 75.

 

[christopher]

137. Bolt the bottom of the oil tank to the bulkhead using the 1-½” long round spacer provided along with the M6x50 flange head bolt. See Figure 77.

138. Insure that there is clearance between the PTO bolt and the oil tank. The oil tank is reinforced behind the bolt head, but it is a good idea to periodically inspect this clearance as rolling the sled over could bend the oil tank causing interference and ultimate catastrophic damage if the bolt were to wear through the oil tank.

As you can see in this photo, there is a LOT of clearance between the supercharger pulleys and the new oil tank.
And there is NO CHANCE at all of this new tank "Bending" from a simple rollover. The wall thickness ensures that!

 

[christopher]

139. Locate the black OEM oil return hose that has not been reinstalled yet hose that has a “U” bend in it. Attach the straighter end (opposite the “U” bend to the grey oil return hose you attached to the motor
several steps ago (this grey hose is attached to the motor just below the billet water manifold you installed). Use the billet hose splice provided along with 2 24.1mm oeitker clamps. The grey hose should
pass through a hole in the upper middle of right side bulkhead. Verify that the hole still has the white plastic bushing installed to prevent damage to the hose. See Figure 78.

Trimmed the hose back to just a couple inches to fit better.

Needed to open the mouth of the hose a bit.

Began the process of slowly working the splicer into the hose.

 

[wilmot]

Looking good Chris. Almost finished.

 

[christopher]

He he.
Ya, I am closer than I have been at any other stage of this installation.

Still seems like there is a LOT to go yet.

30 steps left in the manual.

 

[wilmot]

Hey Chris. Where do we splice in the OFT ROLLOVER VALVE?

 

[christopher]

I have NO IDEA.
Right now I just want to get it all assembled.
Then I will go back in and install the rollover valve.

 

[christopher]

WHAT A SAGA, this story just never ends.

So, turns out a month ago when I bought some new hose to replace the hose that came off of the oil pump that goes to the Sump Tank.

Little did I know that it was the wrong hose.
I bought re-inforced, rather than pure rubber.
This meant that the Billet Aluminum Hose Splicer would NOT join the two hoses needed to reattach it to the sump pump.

I spent 2 days trying to stretch out this hose to get it to fit before I realized it was a lost cause. Today I went and bought a new plastic hose splicer that let me join 2 slightly different diameter hoses together.

 

[christopher]

This poor Trail Tank.
I have taken this off and installed it at least a half dozen times now.
Has to come off yet again so the Radiator bracket can be riveted into place.

 

[Thistledoo]

Don't forget the copper donuts