They are going in when the skid comes out and the whole new exhaust system goes in next month.
Installation and Review: Mountain Performance Inc, Stage 1 & 2 Supercharger
- Thread starter christopher
- Start date
Got the breather hose in "stock" from MPI right now.
Will go back and Mod that later.
Right now I am trying to get the radiator overflow tank mounted so it doesn't rub a hole in my new Trail Tank.
Will go back and Mod that later.
Right now I am trying to get the radiator overflow tank mounted so it doesn't rub a hole in my new Trail Tank.
Got the overflow mounted!
W
wilmot
Well-known member
What track are you installing?
Was planning on a Camoplast Challenger Extreme 2.5
Back to the installation..
Well, after many attempts and failures, I gave up on getting the OEM Billet Aluminum Hose Splicer to ever fit into that wrong hose that Installed on the oil pump. So I removed it and started over again.
Add one hose clamp
Insert one hose adapter!
Add another hose clamp.
And this step is now finished.
Well, after many attempts and failures, I gave up on getting the OEM Billet Aluminum Hose Splicer to ever fit into that wrong hose that Installed on the oil pump. So I removed it and started over again.
Add one hose clamp
Insert one hose adapter!
Add another hose clamp.
And this step is now finished.
140. Find a round object that fits nicely into the nipple on the side of the oil tank (a deep socket works well). Bend the nipple away from the bulkhead slightly. Don’t bend it too far or you could crack the weld. The nipple doesn’t have to be bent out much. See Figures 79 & 80.
Because I am using the T. S. Designs HD Oil Tank, I did not find this step to be necessary.
141. Connect the black hose with the “U” shaped bend to the oil return nipple on the side of the oil tank using a black OEM spring clamp. See Figure 81.
Because my tank was powdercoated, and the nipple was also powdercoated, I opted to use a regular hose clamp to get MORE tension. I found I could slide the hose right off the nipple with the Spring Clamp.!!
NOTE to T.S. Designs, Fittings should NOT be powdercoated.....
142. Reconnect the oil level sensor wire to the top of the oil tank.
I found that I needed to cut loose this wire from the harness as it was NOT long enough to stretch out to the connector.
Because I am using the T. S. Designs HD Oil Tank, I did not find this step to be necessary.
141. Connect the black hose with the “U” shaped bend to the oil return nipple on the side of the oil tank using a black OEM spring clamp. See Figure 81.
Because my tank was powdercoated, and the nipple was also powdercoated, I opted to use a regular hose clamp to get MORE tension. I found I could slide the hose right off the nipple with the Spring Clamp.!!
NOTE to T.S. Designs, Fittings should NOT be powdercoated.....
142. Reconnect the oil level sensor wire to the top of the oil tank.
I found that I needed to cut loose this wire from the harness as it was NOT long enough to stretch out to the connector.
143. Install the new vent hose provided in the kit onto the top of the oil tank. The hose should be angled toward the back of the sled. Use the provided work clamp and make sure that it does not interfere with anything.
See Figure 82.
NOTE:
I am NOT installing my Jacobson Rollover Oil-Valve Kit 'yet".
I will do that a bit later.
144. Route the breather hose between the battery and brake hose. As this hose goes across the sled under the fuel tank it should be kept as high as possible. It is a good idea to periodically inspect the end of the breather. If you motor were to become damaged and expel oil from the breather you would want to correct the problem immediately. It is NOT normal for oil to be expelled from the breather. This area should also be inspected after a roll-over as oil could leak out of the tank. See Figure 83.
This is from the opposite side of the sled showing where the Oil Tank Breather line ends up on top of the cylinder heads. Its the small white circle in the middle of the photo.
See Figure 82.
NOTE:
I am NOT installing my Jacobson Rollover Oil-Valve Kit 'yet".
I will do that a bit later.
144. Route the breather hose between the battery and brake hose. As this hose goes across the sled under the fuel tank it should be kept as high as possible. It is a good idea to periodically inspect the end of the breather. If you motor were to become damaged and expel oil from the breather you would want to correct the problem immediately. It is NOT normal for oil to be expelled from the breather. This area should also be inspected after a roll-over as oil could leak out of the tank. See Figure 83.
This is from the opposite side of the sled showing where the Oil Tank Breather line ends up on top of the cylinder heads. Its the small white circle in the middle of the photo.
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145. Locate the small OEM black hose (approximately 3 feet long) that connected the radiator overflow tank to the radiator. Reconnect 1 end to the radiator. Route the hose across the top of the radiator shroud as shown and secure loosely with 2 zip ties. As you drill USE EXTREME CAUTION TO NOT DRILL INTO THE RADIATOR. Angling the drill parallel to the radiator will help you prevent damage. See Figure 84.
NOTE.
I have NOT zipped tied my hose down as yet.
I may secure it later today though.
NOTE.
I have NOT zipped tied my hose down as yet.
I may secure it later today though.
146. Use the angled radiator overflow bracket provided in the kit as a template to mark to rivet holes in the aluminum frame support as shown. The top of the bracket will be 1-¼” down from the top joint where the 2
square OEM aluminum tubes are welded together. The back of the bracket should be parallel (even or lined up) with the back of the square tube. See Figure 85.
This is what the bracket is supposed to look like.
square OEM aluminum tubes are welded together. The back of the bracket should be parallel (even or lined up) with the back of the square tube. See Figure 85.
This is what the bracket is supposed to look like.
Now, everything in my case just has to be SPECIAL...
Not only am I installing the MPI Supercharger, but I am installing the Trail Tank High Capacity Fuel Tank as well.
Well, that tank has small "wings" that wrap around the frame hoop where the Overflow hanger is getting installed.
Attempting a test fit to see how this was going to work, or NOT...
And here is my problem.
The bracket, when put in the position as indicated by MPI rubs against the new Trail Tank. Probably NOT a good long term solution for snowmobiling joy and happiness as the tank wears a hole and starts bleeding gas out!
So, I ground down the mount so I could push it back in a bit towards the center of the sled.
Not only am I installing the MPI Supercharger, but I am installing the Trail Tank High Capacity Fuel Tank as well.
Well, that tank has small "wings" that wrap around the frame hoop where the Overflow hanger is getting installed.
Attempting a test fit to see how this was going to work, or NOT...
And here is my problem.
The bracket, when put in the position as indicated by MPI rubs against the new Trail Tank. Probably NOT a good long term solution for snowmobiling joy and happiness as the tank wears a hole and starts bleeding gas out!
So, I ground down the mount so I could push it back in a bit towards the center of the sled.
147. Drill 2 3/16” holes and rivet the bracket into place. A right angle drill will make the job much easier.
I tried to use the right angle drill.
Mine was TOO BIG to fit into the space.
Because the drill bit kept walking on me at the harsh angle, I ended up drilling each hole a couple times. Stated with a TINY drill bit to make a pilot hole then opened it up.
Riveting these was a bit of a challenge.
There was just no way to get the rivet gun head into the small space with any finesse... While this photo doesn't show it, the rivets are mounted at a slight angle as I could NOT get them in flat.
I tried to use the right angle drill.
Mine was TOO BIG to fit into the space.
Because the drill bit kept walking on me at the harsh angle, I ended up drilling each hole a couple times. Stated with a TINY drill bit to make a pilot hole then opened it up.
Riveting these was a bit of a challenge.
There was just no way to get the rivet gun head into the small space with any finesse... While this photo doesn't show it, the rivets are mounted at a slight angle as I could NOT get them in flat.
148. Cover the backside and bottom of the radiator overflow bottle with heat tape provided in the kit. For reference, the front side of the bottle has markings (FULL and LOW) on it and should face the outside of the sled. You want to tape the opposite side, the one that faces the inside / fuel tank. See Figure 86.
149. Also tape the front corner of the tank with several layers of tape to prevent chafing between the tank and the bulkhead where it will rest. See Figure 87.
150. Mount the OEM overflow bottle to the bracket using the Silver M6 OEM Shoulder Bolt and a provided M6 Flange Head Nut provided. Make sure that the front of the bottle rests on the top edge of the side bulkhead. See Figure 87.
I didn't like the way the bottle sat against the bulkhead of the sled so I added a small piece of self adhesive insulation to protect it a little bit better.
149. Also tape the front corner of the tank with several layers of tape to prevent chafing between the tank and the bulkhead where it will rest. See Figure 87.
150. Mount the OEM overflow bottle to the bracket using the Silver M6 OEM Shoulder Bolt and a provided M6 Flange Head Nut provided. Make sure that the front of the bottle rests on the top edge of the side bulkhead. See Figure 87.
I didn't like the way the bottle sat against the bulkhead of the sled so I added a small piece of self adhesive insulation to protect it a little bit better.
151. Connect the 28” long 7/32” black hose provided in the kit to cap for the overflow tank. Route the hose back to the square aluminum box and then follow the box downward following the same path as pink OEM fuel
overflow hose and the OEM speedometer sensor wire. The hose should end near the belly pan of the sled. See Figure 88.
Install the old cap and the new hose.
Routing the hose down.
And securing it at the bottom.
overflow hose and the OEM speedometer sensor wire. The hose should end near the belly pan of the sled. See Figure 88.
Install the old cap and the new hose.
Routing the hose down.
And securing it at the bottom.
152. Remove the 2 OEM nuts (one on Left and one on Right) that connect the Square Aluminum upper steering column support to the die cast side bulkhead. See Figures 88 & 89.
This is the bolt that has to be LOOSENED but not removed.
This is the bolt that has to be LOOSENED but not removed.
153. Install the 2 Billet nut extensions in place of the OEM nuts. The longer piece goes on the Right Side. Connect 2 supplied springs between the ears on Airbox Intercooler and the 2 nut extensions you just installed. See Figures 88 & 89.
THIS MARKS THE END OF THE MECHANICAL PORTION OF THE INSTALLATION!!
For all intents and purposes I am done installing the super charger.
REASSEMBLY
154. Make a COMPLETE AND THOROUGH CHECK for anything that might be able to move and become entangled in or rubbing on the blower drive, the sleds frame, steering linkage and etcetera. Secure anything suspicious out of the way with zip ties.
155. Reinstall the lower RH & LH lower side pods using all OEM hardware.
Reassembly of the sled and first start up will have to wait a bit now while I get caught up on several other MODS that need to take place BEFORE I am ready to button up the sled.!!
For all intents and purposes I am done installing the super charger.
REASSEMBLY
154. Make a COMPLETE AND THOROUGH CHECK for anything that might be able to move and become entangled in or rubbing on the blower drive, the sleds frame, steering linkage and etcetera. Secure anything suspicious out of the way with zip ties.
155. Reinstall the lower RH & LH lower side pods using all OEM hardware.
Reassembly of the sled and first start up will have to wait a bit now while I get caught up on several other MODS that need to take place BEFORE I am ready to button up the sled.!!
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