Installation and Review: Mountain Performance Inc, Stage 1 & 2 Supercharger
- Thread starter christopher
- Start date
Will get it on soon.
T
TRUEBLUEMAX
Well-known member
Not trying to be a jerk but isn't the reason we ride Yammies is so that we don't have to worry about checking things like that after every ride.
I think it would be good if they could somehow come up with a different way of mounting the pulleys that would not leave you thinking about it in the back of your mind all the time.
I do appreciate the detailed install!
They would also like a different way to mount them.
But for the moment, this seems to be the best route.
But for the moment, this seems to be the best route.
Trying to get the lower pulley mounted tonight
Man, "nailing" this alignment is a bear.
Everytime to do the test fit and torque up the set screws, I do the alignment test and its clearly off a bit.
grrrrr.
Man, "nailing" this alignment is a bear.
Everytime to do the test fit and torque up the set screws, I do the alignment test and its clearly off a bit.
grrrrr.
he he he.
shakes head..
Now I can't get this pulley OFF the PTO shaft after the test fit.
shakes head..
Now I can't get this pulley OFF the PTO shaft after the test fit.
Christopher are you using one of the set screws in the third hole on the taper lock to extract the pulley off the taper lock. If not that's what its for. Just thread one screw into that hole.
Nope.
Only came with the two screws that were already in it.
Guess I need to read down another paragraph.
I thought when the set screws came out, it would be able to pull the thing off, but it is on there TIGHTLY now!
Nope.
Only came with the two screws that were already in it.
Guess I need to read down another paragraph.
I thought when the set screws came out, it would be able to pull the thing off, but it is on there TIGHTLY now!
There are three holes in the pulley. Two of them hold the pulley onto the taper lock. The third hole is used as the extractor. Take the two screws out put one into the third hole and crank it down, it will separate the taper lock from the pulley.
When all else fails, READ THE INSTRUCTIONS.
I just didn't read to the next section
REMOVING THE PULLEYS...
I AM going to get these pulleys MOUNTED TODAY!!
I just didn't read to the next section
REMOVING THE PULLEYS...
I AM going to get these pulleys MOUNTED TODAY!!
let me know if you need more help.
Jack screw in as tight as it will go.
Beating on the pulley with a large socket.
NOT budging yet.
Beating on the pulley with a large socket.
NOT budging yet.
SUCCESS!!
Got it off and NOW I understand HOW to do it.
Instructions.
I swear, I should re-write this manual for MPI as my gift to the supercharger community!!
Now to REmount it and try to get the alignment NAILED.
Got it off and NOW I understand HOW to do it.
Instructions.
I swear, I should re-write this manual for MPI as my gift to the supercharger community!!
Now to REmount it and try to get the alignment NAILED.
T
TNytro162
Well-known member
SUCCESS!!
Got it off and NOW I understand HOW to do it.
Instructions.
I swear, I should re-write this manual for MPI as my gift to the supercharger community!!
Now to REmount it and try to get the alignment NAILED.
DONE.
The pulleys and belt are MOUNTED.
I will get everything posted on Saturday!
What an experience.
The pulleys and belt are MOUNTED.
I will get everything posted on Saturday!
What an experience.
NOTE:
Read this all the way through.
Then read it again
When you are sure you fully understand it, Read it one more time.
This is, without a doubt, the most difficult part of the entire installation process, and the part that caused me the most headaches. Only after having gone through this do I now see and understand whats going on here and how it could be done more simply. I will do my best to explain it so the rest of you will will breeze right through it on your first attempt.
DRIVE SYSTEM INSTALL NOTES ON SPROCKET INSTALLATION
(Setscrews loosen which results in sprockets starting to wobble and eventually, they will come off the shaft. You may notice an unusual vibration or an unusual noise at idle. If it comes loose it will cause damage that is not covered under your warranty (including sprockets).
A. Improper tightening of taper lock. It is possible to get 40 in-lbs but have the taper bushing slightly sideways. Once the sled is ridden the bushing / sprocket set will self align, however , if it was not aligned / centered during installation the setscrews will not be tight and the set will “self eject”. If a sprocket / bushing set comes off or wobbles badly, typically neither can be reused
B. Additionally, MPI has upgraded the aluminum in the sprockets from 6061 to 7075. 7075 is much harder and makes a better sprocket, unfortunately it is less forgiving for misalignment on the taperlock. The older, softer aluminum would conform easier to the taperlock. The harder aluminum is a much better product, but is more difficult to keep installed. By following the procedure indicated, you should be able to yield 100% success.
C. Refer to the Taper Lock to Key Gap drawing, Figure 68. Remove any rough edges on the Taper Lock and/or the woodruff key. If the Taper Lock is installed into the Sprocket, remove the taper lock from the sprocket. Test fit the taper lock onto the shaft. Refer back to the drawing to verify that you have the appropriate clearance over the keyway. If there is interference on the keyway, it is best to EVENLY file the keyway in the Taper Lock.
D. Put the Taper Lock bushing into the sprocket from the outside. Start 2 set screws into the holes that are 180 degrees across from each other. About 5-6 turns on the setscrew so that the bushing still moves up and down just a little bit.
E. Slide the lower drive sprocket on as far as possible, and then pull it back out just a bit (0.002” to 0.010”). See Figure 69.
F. Temporarily reinstall & tighten taper-lock set screws to 40 in-lbs in even steps (#1 screw, #2 screw and back and forth until there is no screw movement). Set you alignment as described below in the instructions. It is acceptable to have as much as 1/8” (0.125”) of misalignment, but less is always better. Figure 70.
G. Note the position of the Taper Lock on the Shaft (and PTO), you will need to remove the sprockets and replace them back into this position without spending time to realign them.
H. Once you satisfied with your alignment, remove both sprockets. Reset the set screws into the tightening position.
I. The next steps will be performed individually on each sprocket. Do not heat both sprockets at the same time.
J. We recommend that you do the PTO sprocket 1st. Also, don’t forget that some Sprocket combinations require that the belt be put on with the top Sprocket. You will know this from your test fit.
K. We recommend that you use an electric skillet or electric frying pan to heat the sprockets. This item is available from Wal-Mart or similar for about $20.00. Preheat the frying pan to about 375F (not over 400F). The aluminum can be damaged if it is heated above 400F (but the pan would probably have to be well over 400F to do that). Some pulleys are marked with heat sensitive paint, The paint is on the face and should be facing UP in the pan (and the taper lock should be installed into the sprocket; but not tightened). The goal is to melt the paint.
L. Remove the Sprocket/Taper Lock from the pan and quickly install on the Shaft (or PTO). Tighten taperlock set screws to 40 in-lbs in even steps (#1 screw, #2 screw and back and forth until there is no screw movement). Now increase the torque to 60+ in-lbs. You can go well above 80 in-lbs, but the hex bit is typically the weak link. Snap-on hex bits will twist at around 60 to 70 in-lbs while APEX is the best we have tested. They yield near 100 in-lbs. Once you have finished torquing, and you are sure the set will not move any further, remove the setscrews one at a time and apply RED loctite and re-torque to 60+ in-lbs. Letting the loctite “set-up” or dry for 24 hrs is very important, plan ahead. The installation process (not including the loctite step) should take about 2 minutes. Do all you can to minimize the time from the frying pan to torquing.
THIS SHOULD TAKE WAY LESS THAN 5 MINUTES.
M. Repeat the process on the top sprocket.
Read this all the way through.
Then read it again
When you are sure you fully understand it, Read it one more time.
This is, without a doubt, the most difficult part of the entire installation process, and the part that caused me the most headaches. Only after having gone through this do I now see and understand whats going on here and how it could be done more simply. I will do my best to explain it so the rest of you will will breeze right through it on your first attempt.
DRIVE SYSTEM INSTALL NOTES ON SPROCKET INSTALLATION
(Setscrews loosen which results in sprockets starting to wobble and eventually, they will come off the shaft. You may notice an unusual vibration or an unusual noise at idle. If it comes loose it will cause damage that is not covered under your warranty (including sprockets).
A. Improper tightening of taper lock. It is possible to get 40 in-lbs but have the taper bushing slightly sideways. Once the sled is ridden the bushing / sprocket set will self align, however , if it was not aligned / centered during installation the setscrews will not be tight and the set will “self eject”. If a sprocket / bushing set comes off or wobbles badly, typically neither can be reused
B. Additionally, MPI has upgraded the aluminum in the sprockets from 6061 to 7075. 7075 is much harder and makes a better sprocket, unfortunately it is less forgiving for misalignment on the taperlock. The older, softer aluminum would conform easier to the taperlock. The harder aluminum is a much better product, but is more difficult to keep installed. By following the procedure indicated, you should be able to yield 100% success.
C. Refer to the Taper Lock to Key Gap drawing, Figure 68. Remove any rough edges on the Taper Lock and/or the woodruff key. If the Taper Lock is installed into the Sprocket, remove the taper lock from the sprocket. Test fit the taper lock onto the shaft. Refer back to the drawing to verify that you have the appropriate clearance over the keyway. If there is interference on the keyway, it is best to EVENLY file the keyway in the Taper Lock.
D. Put the Taper Lock bushing into the sprocket from the outside. Start 2 set screws into the holes that are 180 degrees across from each other. About 5-6 turns on the setscrew so that the bushing still moves up and down just a little bit.
E. Slide the lower drive sprocket on as far as possible, and then pull it back out just a bit (0.002” to 0.010”). See Figure 69.
F. Temporarily reinstall & tighten taper-lock set screws to 40 in-lbs in even steps (#1 screw, #2 screw and back and forth until there is no screw movement). Set you alignment as described below in the instructions. It is acceptable to have as much as 1/8” (0.125”) of misalignment, but less is always better. Figure 70.
G. Note the position of the Taper Lock on the Shaft (and PTO), you will need to remove the sprockets and replace them back into this position without spending time to realign them.
H. Once you satisfied with your alignment, remove both sprockets. Reset the set screws into the tightening position.
I. The next steps will be performed individually on each sprocket. Do not heat both sprockets at the same time.
J. We recommend that you do the PTO sprocket 1st. Also, don’t forget that some Sprocket combinations require that the belt be put on with the top Sprocket. You will know this from your test fit.
K. We recommend that you use an electric skillet or electric frying pan to heat the sprockets. This item is available from Wal-Mart or similar for about $20.00. Preheat the frying pan to about 375F (not over 400F). The aluminum can be damaged if it is heated above 400F (but the pan would probably have to be well over 400F to do that). Some pulleys are marked with heat sensitive paint, The paint is on the face and should be facing UP in the pan (and the taper lock should be installed into the sprocket; but not tightened). The goal is to melt the paint.
L. Remove the Sprocket/Taper Lock from the pan and quickly install on the Shaft (or PTO). Tighten taperlock set screws to 40 in-lbs in even steps (#1 screw, #2 screw and back and forth until there is no screw movement). Now increase the torque to 60+ in-lbs. You can go well above 80 in-lbs, but the hex bit is typically the weak link. Snap-on hex bits will twist at around 60 to 70 in-lbs while APEX is the best we have tested. They yield near 100 in-lbs. Once you have finished torquing, and you are sure the set will not move any further, remove the setscrews one at a time and apply RED loctite and re-torque to 60+ in-lbs. Letting the loctite “set-up” or dry for 24 hrs is very important, plan ahead. The installation process (not including the loctite step) should take about 2 minutes. Do all you can to minimize the time from the frying pan to torquing.
THIS SHOULD TAKE WAY LESS THAN 5 MINUTES.
M. Repeat the process on the top sprocket.
Note.
Read and understand this as well.
You will be installing and removing this sprocket SEVERAL TIMES in this process.
NOTES ON SPROCKET REMOVAL.
A. Remove the 2 set screws. If necessary use a torch to heat the screws. DO NOT OVER HEAT THE SPROCKET, YOU COULD DAMAGE THE SEAL/BEARINGS.
B. Reinstall one of the set screws into the center “Jack Screw” hole. Tighten this set screw as much as possible. You will likely have to strike the sprocket with a brass hammer. DO NOT HIT THE SPROCKET ON or NEAR THE RIM. Strike near the center. It is easiest to use a large socket or similar.
The socket should allow you to kit the body of the sprocket (not the rim and not the taper lock area). If the Sprocket is still stuck, re-tighten the jack-setscrew. Heat the sprocket and smack it again.
Read and understand this as well.
You will be installing and removing this sprocket SEVERAL TIMES in this process.
NOTES ON SPROCKET REMOVAL.
A. Remove the 2 set screws. If necessary use a torch to heat the screws. DO NOT OVER HEAT THE SPROCKET, YOU COULD DAMAGE THE SEAL/BEARINGS.
B. Reinstall one of the set screws into the center “Jack Screw” hole. Tighten this set screw as much as possible. You will likely have to strike the sprocket with a brass hammer. DO NOT HIT THE SPROCKET ON or NEAR THE RIM. Strike near the center. It is easiest to use a large socket or similar.
The socket should allow you to kit the body of the sprocket (not the rim and not the taper lock area). If the Sprocket is still stuck, re-tighten the jack-setscrew. Heat the sprocket and smack it again.
120. Install Drive (lower) Sprocket.
A. Install the Woodruff Key into the PTO stub shaft. You will have to tap this into the shaft, use a plastic mallet or dead-blow hammer. BE CAREFUL TO NOT mar or damage the key. The top of the key should be flat or parallel to the shaft. You may tap on one end of the key to align the key as required.
The WoodRuff Key does NOT fit into the slot.
This worried me as I read the instructions and thought I would have to file down either the key or the slot to get a perfect machined fit.
NOT SO.
The perfect fit needs to be from the TAPER LOCK onto the Key, NOT from the Key into the PTO shaft.
NOTE.
The keyway width is NOT the same on the PTO shaft and on the Supercharger shaft.
One fit easily, the other took a little "encouragement" from the hammer.
A few GENTLE taps with a hammer was all it took to set the key into the slot.
Very gentle taps would rock the key back and forth till I got it exactly where I wanted it.
A. Install the Woodruff Key into the PTO stub shaft. You will have to tap this into the shaft, use a plastic mallet or dead-blow hammer. BE CAREFUL TO NOT mar or damage the key. The top of the key should be flat or parallel to the shaft. You may tap on one end of the key to align the key as required.
The WoodRuff Key does NOT fit into the slot.
This worried me as I read the instructions and thought I would have to file down either the key or the slot to get a perfect machined fit.
NOT SO.
The perfect fit needs to be from the TAPER LOCK onto the Key, NOT from the Key into the PTO shaft.
NOTE.
The keyway width is NOT the same on the PTO shaft and on the Supercharger shaft.
One fit easily, the other took a little "encouragement" from the hammer.
A few GENTLE taps with a hammer was all it took to set the key into the slot.
Very gentle taps would rock the key back and forth till I got it exactly where I wanted it.
Last edited:
120. Install Drive (lower) Sprocket.
B. Clean shaft, bore of bushings, outside of the bushing, and hub and bore on sprocket with brake clean.
File any burrs. Insure that there is at least 0.005” of clearance between the top of the keyway slot and the key and that there is 0.002” of side clearance between the keyway and the key. File the keyway in the bushing as required. The bushing should slide on the PTO and not hang up on the woodruff key.
(We are sorry, but we have no control over the key size and the taperlock bushing size. We buy the best parts available, but there are mismatches from time to time.) See Figure 68.
This is where you begin the process of TEST FITTING.
Don't be surprised if you have to do this MANY TIMES!
Your going to install and remove this sprocket many times.
Separate the sprocket from the Taper lock and save yourself a LOT of time and effort as your doing the test fits!
In my case, once I put it on, it did NOT want to come back off.
This is where you need to refer back to the REMOVAL process.
In short, by inserting the Jack Screw you are going to SEPERATE the inner steel Taper Lock from the out aluminum Sprocket. For some reason this just didn't dawn on me while reading the instructions. I thought the Jack Screw was going to LOOSEN the taper lock from the PTO shaft and allow me to slide the whole assembly off.
NOT SO.
CRANK on that jack screw until the two peices of metal break free of each other!
Then, put a large socket across the face of the Sprocket and tap it to break the sprocket free of the inner Taper lock
Now its time to begin FILING the Taperlock to make it fit SMOOTHLY on the Woodruff Key
File
Test fit
File
Test fit.
Over and over and over again
B. Clean shaft, bore of bushings, outside of the bushing, and hub and bore on sprocket with brake clean.
File any burrs. Insure that there is at least 0.005” of clearance between the top of the keyway slot and the key and that there is 0.002” of side clearance between the keyway and the key. File the keyway in the bushing as required. The bushing should slide on the PTO and not hang up on the woodruff key.
(We are sorry, but we have no control over the key size and the taperlock bushing size. We buy the best parts available, but there are mismatches from time to time.) See Figure 68.
This is where you begin the process of TEST FITTING.
Don't be surprised if you have to do this MANY TIMES!
Your going to install and remove this sprocket many times.
Separate the sprocket from the Taper lock and save yourself a LOT of time and effort as your doing the test fits!
In my case, once I put it on, it did NOT want to come back off.
This is where you need to refer back to the REMOVAL process.
In short, by inserting the Jack Screw you are going to SEPERATE the inner steel Taper Lock from the out aluminum Sprocket. For some reason this just didn't dawn on me while reading the instructions. I thought the Jack Screw was going to LOOSEN the taper lock from the PTO shaft and allow me to slide the whole assembly off.
NOT SO.
CRANK on that jack screw until the two peices of metal break free of each other!
Then, put a large socket across the face of the Sprocket and tap it to break the sprocket free of the inner Taper lock
Now its time to begin FILING the Taperlock to make it fit SMOOTHLY on the Woodruff Key
File
Test fit
File
Test fit.
Over and over and over again
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