Installation and Review: Mountain Performance Inc, Stage 1 & 2 Supercharger

[MTdream]

OK

For What Its Worth.

I could NOT get that Cold Air Intake Tube to pass through that Rubber bushing for love nor money without the silicone. It was just ripping the rubber bushing right off the walls of the hole.

Even with great directions, and forums like this, there are a million tricks...I learned one today too, never even thought of the foaming glass cleaner...

Having done 20-30 installs....it is amazing how much you learn every time even with same sleds, made same day....

 

[christopher]

Ain't that the truth though!!

 

[christopher]

Your right! Once again Christopher fines a problem that no one has ever asked before. Which backs up my theory that no one reads the instructions! I think your fine to hook it up when you fit the intercooler into the sled before you bolt it to the throttle bodies. Thanks Christopher for pointing that out.

There may be guys out there that could do this full install without ever looking at your manual, but I SURE AS HECK am NOT one of them!

I can't even begin to imagine doing this install without your manual.

 

[MTdream]

111. Connect the Boost Pressure Sense Line of the GEMS controller to the port provided on the air box.

I wasn't able to get the little hose to slide onto the nipple past the first rib, so I expanded it for a few minutes.

Suggest Zip tieing all those air hose connections...

Especially on the Gems controller base...that thing has a way of working loose (is part of the design flaw from the manufacturer, NOT MPI)...and anywhere you connect up the little air hoses, even if they appear TIGHT, I would zip tie them....it does two things...one, the obvious one, is it keeps them in place...2 and possibly more important...is that it helps maintain the integrity of that rubber...it is uber easy to have that rubber get stressed, and have pin holes develop from all the heat cycles....

It is all those little connections on your intercoolers, and controllers, and sensors (boost controllers, A/F gauges, etc.) that are hard to find boost bleeds....10 minutes of prevention on the install will save you hours and hours from being frustrated on the hill...

go get some good metal clasped Zip ties, in a variety of sizes...I even found some color coded to my hoses...

I went even a step further after a while and replaced all the rubber hoses with silicone braided ones...they are made for industrial stuff...like airplanes, and high end turbo installations, and racing applications...

I would post links, but I think they are on my other PC...

 

[MTdream]

Here are pics of the different types of clasps on zip ties...

first and IMHO worst, is the plastic clasp...the part that locks

Second pic...IMHO best, has a metal clasp that grabs better...

 

[christopher]

Suggest Zip tieing all those air hose connections...

Especially on the Gems controller base...

THANKS for the tip.
I think the GEMS was the ONLY one on the whole sled I did not ZIP Tie.
Didn't think I could get a Tie around it!

Will go back down and try again now though!

 

[christopher]

My replacement hose arrived today!
So I was able to get the radiator mounted.

Reconnecting the fan power line

This is the small foam bar on the bottom of the radiator shroud.

I tried and tried and tried to get this thing mounted but there is just NO room to spare. So I removed the foam trying to gain back any amount of spece to get the shroud to align with the bolt holes

That bought me a TINY bit of extra space.

Getting these 4 bolts to line up with the mount on the frame was a bear.
I mounted and removed the radiator several times trying to figure out how to get all 4 of them to line up properly.

In the end I was able to screw in both bottom bolts just a tiny bit, then get both upper bolts started. Of course once all 4 were in it was a piece of cake.

But that radiator shroud is putting some real pressure on the top of the Inter-cooler! Every time I tried to align the bolt holes I could see the inter-cooler moving down and squeezing the oil filter.

Once again, there is just NO ROOM TO SPARE on this installation.

 

[mountainhorse]

Wow... talk about patience...

Christopher... You have built a very good thread... and an impressive sled.

Keep up the good work.

 

[christopher]

Ya, well, I hit another road block.
The next step was to re-install the steering column.
Last season I did one too many chest plants on my handlebars and bent them at some point. So early this summer I ordered a replacement set.
Opened the box last night to go ahead and install them and discovered I got the wrong handlebars. The OEM bar that came in the box didn't have the mountain strap on it, and while I don't use that very often, when you need it, it sure comes in handy!

Gotta order another one today.

 

[TRUEBLUEMAX]

In the words of Chris Burandt the only thing the mountain strap is good for is tipping the sled over to work on it. So seeing as how we never have to fix our sleds you should be good Christopher

 

[justinkredible56]

Pretty sure you can install the steering column without putting your handlebars on!

 

[christopher]

he he he.
Ya, that just recently DAWNED on me as well!

Back to the garage!!!

 

[motojunkie101]

I've found my mountain bar pretty useful in the spring when you are on crusty snow and are having a hard time keeping a side hill. I also run a lefty...so I may just be a handicapable rider.

 

[christopher]

Hopefully everyone who rides a Nytro has the OFT Relocator kit on their sled. My reinstall will cover the steering colum using their kit!

If you don't have this kit installed on your Nytro, SERIOUSLY, go get one!

For more details, go read this thread
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=200373

 

[christopher]

114. Reinstall the steering column and handlebars.
Torque the M10 heim joint to 50 ft-lbs and reinstall the cotter pin

Lower Steering column mounting bracket.

The internal bushing

Shaft goes the first bushing and the 2nd bushing is laid on top of the shaft.

Locking Plate.

Bending the tabs to ensure the steering column doesn't come loose on accident!

__________________

 

[christopher]

While the upper mount is designed to be seen, and is much nicer to look at, it follows the same principle the lower one does.

Bracket, Bushing, Steering Column, another bushing and the top bracket to hold it all in place.

If you are riding a Nytro and you don't have this kit installed, you are doing yourself a great disservice!
This is one of those rare MUST HAVE items on your sled.
Get one and get it installed.

The only thing I can think of that would make this any better, is if the fine folks at OFT Racing offered it in YAMAHA BLUE!!

 

[christopher]

reinstalling the all important cotter pin!!

 

[christopher]

115. Reinstall the OEM headlight. Route and secure all OEM wires, cables and hoses with the OEM attachments (hint: only the 2 grey wire looms and the cable parking brake go through the loop at the top of the column, the throttle and brake hose are outside the loop). Double check you have reconnected all wires and secured them in place.

Ready to place the headlight assembly back onto the sled.

I have a new HID conversion kit that I am going to install, but decided to get this poor sled put back together and finish this thread before I embark on another modification!

Headlight connectors

Headlights connected.

General Cable routing.

Reinsert the four plastic push pins into the frame.

 

[christopher]

116. Zip-tie the OEM temp sensor that you removed from the Airbox back onto the harness as shown. See Figure 64.


I must have missed the step where I was supposed to disconnect this little sensor.

Reattached to the harness wire.

Zipped into place on the wiring harness.

 

[christopher]

117. Route the short supercharger oil cooler / return line from the cooler to the outlet of the supercharger (marked “oil out”). Secure in place with the provided worm clamp. Orientation of Worm Clamp is very important! The slotted screw portion of the clamp should be on the bottom with the slot facing out towards the side of the sled as shown. See Figure 65.

Don't know why, but I just couldn't get this little nipple cover to pull off, so I took the knife to it!

Not sure WHY this is so important, but they clearly wanted you to have this worm clamp in a very specific location???

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