Installation and Review: Mountain Performance Inc, Stage 1 & 2 Supercharger

[christopher]

I measured the center point on both the radiator and the oil cooler and marked a red line. This made it MUCH easier to try and hold it in the right place when I was passing the Zip Ties down through the radiator fins.

Then I set the radiator cowling over over the radiator and tried to line them both up.

Looking where the Zip Ties wanted to pass through and where they would come out on the back side next to the fan blade I discovered that I needed to noth out the cowling to allow me to mount the cooler down lower so the Zip Tie lock wouldn't rub against the fan blade.

I passed both of the Zip Ties through the radiator fins.

And placed the two locking squares in place, both of which now cleared the fan blade.

Trimmed off the excess leaving a couple ribs as instructed.

The Finished Result, mounted as LOW as I could get it.

 

[christopher]

This installation is continued in this thread for the benefit of our Free Members so as not to exceed the 75 post free limit.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2780740

 

[christopher]

Installation and Review: Mountain Performance Inc, Stage 1 Supercharer (Part 5)

110. Connect the electrical plugs of the MPI GEMS Fuel Controller. Be sure that you connect the GEMS’ ground wire when you install the radiator. See Figure 63.

The OEM harness.

The GEMs interface harness.

 

[christopher]

111. Connect the Boost Pressure Sense Line of the GEMS controller to the port provided on the air box.

I wasn't able to get the little hose to slide onto the nipple past the first rib, so I expanded it for a few minutes.

 

[christopher]

112. Verify that the throttle cable is installed and that it has been adjusted with the proper freeplay as prescribed in the OEM service manual.

113. Connect the OEM Hoses to the radiator. Also reconnect the fan wire to the main harness. Reinstall the radiator and remember to connect the GEMS Fuel Controller’s ground wire to one of the side radiator mounting bolts.


Set the radiator in place.

Connected the hose that I had forgotten about previously

The bottom of the radiator cowling hs a large soft foam rubber strip on it.

Try though I might, I was not able to squeeze that foam tight enough to get the 4 bolt holes to align properly.

Since I am waiting for the replacement hose to come in from Yamaha for the other side of the radiator, this is where I will have to stop for the next 5 days while I wait for it to arrive.

My guess is that I will "trim" back some of that foam to let the radiator cowling sit tighter against the inter-cooler.

 

[christopher]

SIDE NOTE:



I would like to report what I think is an omission in the MPI installation manual.

If we go back to step #62, we read....

62. Install the new IAC hose supplied in the kit. This routes to the LH side of the vehicle and will be connected to the LH side of the intercooler in a later step.


So far as I can tell, this later step is NOT included anywhere in the manual.

I have been patiently waiting to reconnect the IAC hose, and reading ahead could not find it mentioned anywhere, so I went ahead and did it now.

 

[eyefish123]

I sure hope my turbo kit from MCx is easier than this,,you've done one heck of a job Christopher.I cant even think of some of the yami so called sled mechanics that i've met in the past doing this good of job. Hang in there it'll be worth it

From what I can see of Christopher's pics and my experience with the MCX 180 kit, I would have to say that the turbo kit is much easier. That being said, I think Christopher is doing a great job and his pics are great. It is really fun watching something like this evolve into the finished product. Good job Christopher and thanks for the pics.

 

[MTdream]

Christopher et.al.

If you are using silicone to slip hoses and stuff on...just remember when you lose boost (not the WHEN) remember which hoses you did this too...

Just my humble opinion. but those hoses should be cleaned with an electric connection cleaner, contact cleaner or at the least alcohol...and the throttle bodies portion and charge tube stuff should be VERY clean, and free of any grease or lube...

What makes it easier to get on, makes it easier to come off...

Just sayin...

(from experience, and several dozen tear downs in the field)

 

[christopher]

Just my humble opinion. but those hoses should be cleaned with an electric connection cleaner, contact cleaner or at the least alcohol...and the throttle bodies portion and charge tube stuff should be VERY clean, and free of any grease or lube...

Which BOOST hose did I use Silicon on where it wasn't specified by MPI in the manual?

The Cold Air Intake used it.

And I used it on some of the Radiator lines.

But I don't think I did anywhere else???

 

[MTdream]

Which BOOST hose did I use Silicon on where it wasn't specified by MPI in the manual?

The Cold Air Intake used it.

And I used it on some of the Radiator lines.

But I don't think I did anywhere else???

will let others who are far more knowledgable speak to it...but just because someone (even directions) tell you to do it, doesnt mean it is te right thing to do...

think about it... you lube it up, to then tighten it up to keep it on...Just sayin...

It is my experience, that the less lube here, the more it will grab...which means the less it will possibly come off...

 

[Thistledoo]

I use the foamy glass cleaner on lots of stuff....never had a issue ever as it dries up and is gone. Works great for slipping stuff together.

 

[christopher]

will let others who are far more knowledgable speak to it...but just because someone (even directions) tell you to do it, doesnt mean it is te right thing to do...

think about it... you lube it up, to then tighten it up to keep it on...Just sayin...

It is my experience, that the less lube here, the more it will grab...which means the less it will possibly come off...

I understand that.

But what I was asking is did I ever indicate that I used the Silicone on any hoses that generate BOOST.

The Cold Air Intake is running at LESS than ambient pressure.
There is NO boost on that line??

 

[TRUEBLUEMAX]

That is a great idea Thistledoo. I have never thought of that before. I know from working on the newer diesels that can run upwards of 40 pounds it is very important to keep those connections clean. I have seen many a hose blow off under heavy boost.

It is also very important to have all of the hard parts secure. I have ridden with guys that the intercooler is not bolted down solid and it is very easy to blow off of the throttle bodies.

I know that Christopher has been very careful about this but I bet a lot of people are not aware of this and the mountain is no place to find out.

 

[MTdream]

87. Install the long end of the cold air intake tube through the LH side bulkhead starting from the outside of the bulkhead. Use silicone spray if the tube is tight. See Figure 55.

88. Install the 2-1/4” long piece of silicon hose over the tube first.



A GENEROUS application of silicon DID make it much easier to slide the tube in.!

Above picture of your cold air intake...next post is of your silicon reducer...Personally, I would not place the silicon in the cold air, or other hoses/tubes of a turbo or super charger system...

It appears from your replies you only installed on your cold air intake...that is great...should be ok, I would not do it...and am furthering the discussion, of this being about more than just you, and more than just your build...

 

[MTdream]

I use the foamy glass cleaner on lots of stuff....never had a issue ever as it dries up and is gone. Works great for slipping stuff together.

that is a great idea...

 

[Thistledoo]

yup I use it on the throttle bodies, charge tubes, ect ect

works great to get it together. If I was doing it dry like you guys areI woulda given up long ago!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Matt@MPI]

We use gallons of brake clean here in the shop. A little brake clean on the sillicon hose goes a long ways.

 

[christopher]

Above picture of your cold air intake...next post is of your silicon reducer...Personally, I would not place the silicon in the cold air, or other hoses/tubes of a turbo or super charger system...

It appears from your replies you only installed on your cold air intake...that is great...should be ok, I would not do it...and am furthering the discussion, of this being about more than just you, and more than just your build...

OK

For What Its Worth.

I could NOT get that Cold Air Intake Tube to pass through that Rubber bushing for love nor money without the silicone. It was just ripping the rubber bushing right off the walls of the hole.

 

[Matt@MPI]

SIDE NOTE:



I would like to report what I think is an omission in the MPI installation manual.

If we go back to step #62, we read....

62. Install the new IAC hose supplied in the kit. This routes to the LH side of the vehicle and will be connected to the LH side of the intercooler in a later step.


So far as I can tell, this later step is NOT included anywhere in the manual.

I have been patiently waiting to reconnect the IAC hose, and reading ahead could not find it mentioned anywhere, so I went ahead and did it now.

Your right! Once again Christopher fines a problem that no one has ever asked before. Which backs up my theory that no one reads the instructions! I think your fine to hook it up when you fit the intercooler into the sled before you bolt it to the throttle bodies. Thanks Christopher for pointing that out.

 

[MTdream]

We use gallons of brake clean here in the shop. A little brake clean on the sillicon hose goes a long ways.

There you have it, the secrets