Installation and Review: Mountain Performance Inc, Stage 1 & 2 Supercharger

[mountainhorse]

Christopher... You need a pair of these!!

NAPA # NBH NBH106

About $10

You will find them handy for lots of items... buy a spare blade or two when you get it.

Make life easier... and eliminates those nasty hose cuts!!

Measure back ONE INCH.

Cut it with a hack saw

Didn't like the rough edges that the hacksaw left, so I went back and clipped the edges clean with a pair of dikes.

 

[mountainhorse]

Trick: If you coat the hole saw with grease and use a slow speed... 99% of the chips will stick to the grease... then you have an easier cleanup with just rags....

42.

Tried to cover up everything to keep the metal out.
Only had moderate success.

 

[mountainhorse]

Christopher... Nice Work!!

And a very well done build thread(s)

I really like the detail, the photos with descriptions and walking our readers through the whole process... This is what SnoWestOnline is about...to me!!

BTW... get the raptors!!

 

[BOOSTD]

I will get a pic up first of the week of the relocated hole.

And don't worry about the relay bracket bolt location, there is no tension on that bracket and have yet to see any failures being bolted in the plastic.

 

[christopher]

BTW... get the raptors!!

You think that will be the ticket on the new skid do ya?

 

[christopher]

I will get a pic up first of the week of the relocated hole.

And don't worry about the relay bracket bolt location, there is no tension on that bracket and have yet to see any failures being bolted in the plastic.

THANKS.
Would be VERY NICE to NOT trash a new supercharger from water ingestion!!

 

[Tarzannr1]

PLEASE DO!
I wish more of our members would snap a few photos and share their own installs and mods with the rest of us!

Maybe i will post some pictures of my sled, have a ton of pictures.
Supernice tread by the way, and nice sled

 

[BOOSTD]

As promised.....

Drill the hole the exact size O.D. of the tube and insert in downward position. You will have zero issues from there on out. To make sure no moisture builds up in the frame for some strange reason a hole can be drilled in the bottom of the subframe tube but it already has a few so houldnt be needed. Hope this helps all during install.

 

[christopher]

INTERCOOLER and GENERAL REASSEMBLY

85. Position the intercooler into the snowmobile.
Do not mount the intercooler yet.

The intercooler sets into the space but does take a little twisting to get it into place.

When I first set it in and looked around I noticed one of the wires coming off the intake manifold had to be zipped up and out of the way of the supercharger.

While on the opposite side the main harness was going to have to be "nudged" out of the way as well

The same harness was also blocking the cold air intake tube

 

[christopher]

During the first real test fit I also discovered that I had NOT ground away enough of the metal tab. When I places the intercooler in, it could still rub up against the small ridge I had left behind.

MORE GRINDING was required.

This time around I made sure there was NO METAL left to interfear!

 

[christopher]

87. Install the long end of the cold air intake tube through the LH side bulkhead starting from the outside of the bulkhead. Use silicone spray if the tube is tight. See Figure 55.

88. Install the 2-1/4” long piece of silicon hose over the tube first.

89. Install the 75mm constant tension Oetiker clamp next and then the 70mm constant tension Oetiker clamp. The smaller clamp is used on the supercharger inlet and the larger one on the cold air tube.

90. Slide the hose and tube over the supercharger inlet. Verify the Aluminum tube is not touching the
supercharger inlet directly. Position the clamps as shown in Figure 56 also see Figure 56B.

91. Position the Tube Outlet over the clutch cover (parallel to the cover) as shown in Figure 56B.

92. Tighten the clamps.

93. Install the new Air Filter Provided in the Kit.

94. Install The Snow Pre-Filter.

NOTE:
Once you slide in the Cold Air Intake Tube, you can NOT remove the intercooler. The tube blocks it from coming back out.

A GENEROUS application of silicon DID make it much easier to slide the tube in.!

This was a bit of a pain.
And I ended up redoing this several times till I got it just right.
The intake tube and the supercharger are in NO danger of touching each other. In my case, I wish the silicone hose had been another inch long as I was not able to get as much coverage on both the tube and the supercharger as I might have liked. Though once the clamps were tightly fastened, I think it will be just fine.

This was the first time I had to use one of the swivel heads on this project. The location of the bands has to be pretty much RIGHT ON THE MONEY or they will rub up against the intercooler!

This required me making many trials trying to get the bands into exactly the right spot where the metal didn't touch the underside of the intercooler.

This little metal tab was my NEMISIS. !! Finally found a position that didn't cause it to rub against the intercooler.

 

[christopher]

95. Do not connect the airbox to the Throttle Bodies or the supercharger yet. Look at the tight spot where the intercooler core hits the frame gusset on the upper forward left hand side of the intercooler. Bend or remove material to eliminate the interference. See Figure 57.

96. Insure that the 3 o-rings are in place on top of the throttle body adaptor.

97. Fit the air box / intercooler assembly into place with the hose still slid all the way on the inlet tube. Insure that both T-clamps are in place and oriented as shown. See Figure 54.

98. Slide the silicone hose coupler all the way onto the supercharger. Do not tighten the clamps yet. See
Figure 58.

99. Attach the Intercooler to the throttle with the provided M6x16 Socket Head Bolts.

100. Align and tighten the 2 T-clamps on the inlet side. Do not overtighten the clamp on the thin aluminum inlet to the intercooler.

Bolting on the Intercooler was quite easy as everything lined up very nicely. The jkey was to leave the high pressure silicon hose just loose enough that you could twist the intercooler around just a bit to get the four mounting holes to line up perfectly for the bolts to drop into.

And the intercooler is mounted!

 

[christopher]

101. If you are installing a wide band O2 gauge, the sensor should have been installed into the pipe by now and the wire routed forward. The best location for the sensor is just before the muffler inlet. The sensor should never point down, but rotated just slightly above horizontal is just fine. Mountain Performance recommends the use of the ProLogger system. This includes Wide Band Air:Fuel ratio, boost gauge, water and supercharger temperatures, tach and data logging.

101.5 If you are installing a fuel system upgrade (recommended above 6 PSI at sea-level and above 10 PSI at altitudes above 6000 feet), remove the OE fuel tank pump now.


SKIPPED BOTH OF THESE STEPS.


Next step will be to install the fuel tank.
Since I am installing the new TRAIL TANK, I will post that as a seperate thread first, and then integrate it into this thread.

 

[BOOSTD]

I highly suggest you look into getting the bypass valve or a blowoff valve. With lower boost levels it's not bad but still noticeable, when you let off the throttle you will still have compressed air forcing it's way into the throttle bodies and the machine will want to continue for a second after the throttle has been released.

 

[Shawnmcgr]

So why not drop the little line into some kind of a safety bottle rather than just leaving it dangling there??

This is what I did on my apex (different bottle). Seems to work.

 

[christopher]

I highly suggest you look into getting the bypass valve or a blowoff valve. With lower boost levels it's not bad but still noticeable, when you let off the throttle you will still have compressed air forcing it's way into the throttle bodies and the machine will want to continue for a second after the throttle has been released.

The kit comes with the bypass valve, but it's installation doesn't happen for another couple steps yet... First I have to get the fuel tank installed.

Step #104.
Mount the Bypass / Blow-off valve

 

[christopher]

This is what I did on my apex (different bottle). Seems to work.

I think I am going to follow BOOSTED's idea and drill a hole in the frame and run the vent line down into the frame.

 

[Shawnmcgr]

I think that's a good solution as well, and popular on the Nytro. Maybe because it's a bit tighter under the hood?

I like being able to open up the bottle and see what's in there, has the vent been spitting? If your level goes down in the reservoir, where did it go? Out the vent or is there another leak somewhere?

My bottle is black....a nice clear would would make this even easier.

 

[christopher]

102. Reinstall the fuel tank. Insure that no hoses are caught between the tank and the aluminum steering hoop.

Verify that the fuel line is in the proper position and connected on both ends. Verify that the wire hold-down clamp is in position on the Right rear tank stud and that the taillight wire and the fuel pump wire are secure.


At this point I took this opportunity to install a new fuel tank on my sled.
With the adition of the SuperCharger I am expecting to burn MORE FUEL on every trip, so I thought now was the time to upgrade.

I have installed a new Trail Tank High Capacity Fuel Tank.

OEM Tank = 7.4 Gallons.

Trail Tank = 10.1 Gallons

Net Extra Fuel = + 2.7 gallons or 36% more gas.

Details on this installation can be seen in this thread.
http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2778501

 

[christopher]

SUCKS TO BE ME right now.

Was just about to re-install the radiator when I realized that one of the connecting hoses was missing. As I looked at how I had routed everything it finally dawned on me why I had such a hard time with the hoses on the thermostat housing. I had effectively closed the coolant loop so there was no way to reattach the radiator.

Now I get to remove almost the entire installation to expose the thermostat housing and fix the hose error.