So why not drop the little line into some kind of a safety bottle rather than just leaving it dangling there??
Installation and Review: Mountain Performance Inc, Stage 1 & 2 Supercharger
- Thread starter christopher
- Start date
75. Install the oil line with the filter in the middle loosely onto the bottom of the oil tank. THERE MUST BE A COPPER WASHER ON EACH SIDE OF THE BANJO FITTING (1 between the tank and the banjo and a 2nd between the banjo and the bolt head). YOU MUST CONNECT THE PROPER HOSE END TO THE TANK BOTTOM. The correct line is the shorter of the 2 ends. Verify that the arrow on the filter points away from the tank … towards the supercharger. Secure the line with 2 Zip-ties. See Figure 49.
I went ahead and torqued it down to the required 14ft/lbs at this point
I went ahead and torqued it down to the required 14ft/lbs at this point
76. Remove the LH bolt that holds the computer mount to the chassis. There is also a main ground wire attached here on 2008 models only; don’t forget to reattach this ground wire if present.
77. Clamp the filter into place with the 2 inch Addle Clamp and the long M6 fully threaded bolt provided to the frame where you just removed the OEM bolt. Be sure that the Ground wire is reattached. The filter should
have its shoulder tight against 1 side of the clamp. Orient the filter as shown. See Figure 50.
I ran into some real challenges on this one.
I installed and removed this clamp at least 4 different times.
The instructions call for the clamp to be right up against the should on the filter. The should ring is WIDER than the other rings on the filter housing.
This causes the clamp to NOT sit smoothly on the filter housing.
Each time as I tightened the clamp down it would slide to the right onto the narrower rings.
Finally I just torqued it down and the rubber gasket split on me!
Then I noticed that even after tightening it way down, there was NOT enough force on the mounting tab to secure the bolt tightly. The assembly was still loose and moving around.
Finally I just sled the clamp over to the right, off the shoulder, and it cinched up just fine.
77. Clamp the filter into place with the 2 inch Addle Clamp and the long M6 fully threaded bolt provided to the frame where you just removed the OEM bolt. Be sure that the Ground wire is reattached. The filter should
have its shoulder tight against 1 side of the clamp. Orient the filter as shown. See Figure 50.
I ran into some real challenges on this one.
I installed and removed this clamp at least 4 different times.
The instructions call for the clamp to be right up against the should on the filter. The should ring is WIDER than the other rings on the filter housing.
This causes the clamp to NOT sit smoothly on the filter housing.
Each time as I tightened the clamp down it would slide to the right onto the narrower rings.
Finally I just torqued it down and the rubber gasket split on me!
Then I noticed that even after tightening it way down, there was NOT enough force on the mounting tab to secure the bolt tightly. The assembly was still loose and moving around.
Finally I just sled the clamp over to the right, off the shoulder, and it cinched up just fine.
78. Remove the plastic push lock that holds the rear of relay assembly. The front plastic push lock should remain in place. Move the rear of the bracket as far to the right as possible and use the relay bracket to mark the rear hole location in the plastic. See Figure 51.
This was the first instruction in the manual that left me scratching my head.
For the life of me I didn't know what they meant by the relay assembly, and the provided photos didn't do much to help. After reading ahead several steps and looking closely at the photo I finally figured out what the heck I was supposed to do here...
The Relay Assembly can be seen going from Left to Right at the top of the photo.
Shot looking straight down on the push-lock to be removed.
Out she comes.
With the push lock removed, I sled the relay bracket all the way to the side to create as much room to the right as possible.
This was the first instruction in the manual that left me scratching my head.
For the life of me I didn't know what they meant by the relay assembly, and the provided photos didn't do much to help. After reading ahead several steps and looking closely at the photo I finally figured out what the heck I was supposed to do here...
The Relay Assembly can be seen going from Left to Right at the top of the photo.
Shot looking straight down on the push-lock to be removed.
Out she comes.
With the push lock removed, I sled the relay bracket all the way to the side to create as much room to the right as possible.
79. Move the bracket out of the way & drill a ¼” hole through the plastic. IMPORTANT: Be sure the hole is far enough forward to allow space on the backside for the M6x10 Flange Head Bolt and the small fender washer. Cheat the hole forward slightly if necessary.
Drilling through the plastic.
I found that the big 1/4 inch drill bit wandered badly, so I pre-drilled a much smaller hole first.
One hole in the plastic.
Outside view
Drilling through the plastic.
I found that the big 1/4 inch drill bit wandered badly, so I pre-drilled a much smaller hole first.
One hole in the plastic.
Outside view
80. Bolt the back of the relay bracket to the side pod using the M6x16 Flange Head Bolt, 2 Fender washers and the Flange Nut. There should be 1 fender washer on each side of the plastic. See Figure 52.
I have to add one comment here.
It seems VERY Strange to be bolting anything to PLASTIC.
I am trusting that the boys at MPI know what they are doing on this one, because this doesn't "Feel" right at all.
I have to add one comment here.
It seems VERY Strange to be bolting anything to PLASTIC.
I am trusting that the boys at MPI know what they are doing on this one, because this doesn't "Feel" right at all.
81. Connect the oil coming from the out side of the oil filter to the INLET port on the supercharger (marked “OilIn”). THERE MUST BE A COPPER WASHER ON EACH SIDE OF THE BANJO FITTING (1 between the
tank and the banjo and a 2nd between the banjo and the bolt head). Position the line as shown in theillustration; the line points forward. Tighten the Banjo to 14 foot-pounds.
82. IT IS CRITICAL THAT ALL THE OIL LINES ARE PROPERLY TIGHTENED, ESPECIALLY THE OIL IN LINES. VISUALLY INSPECT ALL BANJO CONNECTIONS TO CONFIRM THAT THERE IS A COPPER WASHER ON EACH SIDE OF THE BANJO, THAT THE BOLTS ARE TORQUE TO 14 FT-LBS AND THAT THE BANJOS AND WASHERS ARE SITTING FLAT ON THEIR MATING SURFACES. SUPERCHARGER FAILURES DUE TO OIL STARVATION ARE NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.
83. Leave the line between the supercharger and the oil filter routed WITHOUT zip ties. See Figure 53.
84. Torque the bottom banjo bolt on the oil tank to 14 foot-pounds.
Torquing it down to 14ft/lbs
Verifying that the mating surface is perfectly FLAT!
tank and the banjo and a 2nd between the banjo and the bolt head). Position the line as shown in theillustration; the line points forward. Tighten the Banjo to 14 foot-pounds.
82. IT IS CRITICAL THAT ALL THE OIL LINES ARE PROPERLY TIGHTENED, ESPECIALLY THE OIL IN LINES. VISUALLY INSPECT ALL BANJO CONNECTIONS TO CONFIRM THAT THERE IS A COPPER WASHER ON EACH SIDE OF THE BANJO, THAT THE BOLTS ARE TORQUE TO 14 FT-LBS AND THAT THE BANJOS AND WASHERS ARE SITTING FLAT ON THEIR MATING SURFACES. SUPERCHARGER FAILURES DUE TO OIL STARVATION ARE NOT COVERED UNDER WARRANTY.
83. Leave the line between the supercharger and the oil filter routed WITHOUT zip ties. See Figure 53.
84. Torque the bottom banjo bolt on the oil tank to 14 foot-pounds.
Torquing it down to 14ft/lbs
Verifying that the mating surface is perfectly FLAT!
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Was the S/C pre-oiled or do you have to do all the filling and priming?
As far as I know its pretty much Bone Dry.
Looks like OIL is added at step 160 in the process.
So I still have a LONG WAYS to go yet!!
FINAL STEPS
160. Fill the blower oil tank with special “Traction Oil”.
161. Fill the engine’s dry sump oil tank with the recommended Yamaha oil.
Looks like OIL is added at step 160 in the process.
So I still have a LONG WAYS to go yet!!
FINAL STEPS
160. Fill the blower oil tank with special “Traction Oil”.
161. Fill the engine’s dry sump oil tank with the recommended Yamaha oil.
So why not drop the little line into some kind of a safety bottle rather than just leaving it dangling there??
Thanks, I was concerned. I haven't seen mine in person, but my dad said that the caps had fallen off in transit, and he wasn't sure if it had oil in it or not.
On a side note, I would think something like this would be a good preventative measure. I might be wrong, but it seems like a sound fix.
And also while I'm at it, give us MORE PICS MORE PICS MORE PICS!!
Ya, I am going to talk with the guys at MPI and ask whats the reality on ingesting water from that little tube, and for loosing all your oil in a rollover.
AND
I need to find out what the scoop is on the OFT Rollover kit now.
Not sure if I need it any more with the whole new oil system??
AND
I need to find out what the scoop is on the OFT Rollover kit now.
Not sure if I need it any more with the whole new oil system??
I am just FOLLOWING some well written instructions and doing pretty much exactly what they are telling me to do!
And this coming from a guy who is anything but a mechanic!!
And this coming from a guy who is anything but a mechanic!!
Do not run your breather tube where MPI tells you too. You will pull in moisture and ruin the fluid in your charger, then they will not warranty it even though they specifically tell you to place it there and have been told multiple times it's an issue. I have lost three chargers to this all in one season with no support from MPI, ended up buying two and the other switched from MPI altogether.
The fix that we have found is to drill the subframe just above the top front cross tube and insert the breather in a downward position. There, the breather will not collect any moisture and you will not void any "warranty" they provide. This has been a sore spot with me for a while and have asked that they change their directions with no prevail, kinda frustrating seeing as its been years now and still hear of people getting fluid in their chargers and losing them.
We all know that the nytro collects a ton of snow in the nose of the sled, even if the breather is farther back or even extended to back by the block, moisture travels down and once the oil in the charger cools it creates a vacuum and will pull fluid or even vapors and over time will create damage. So please any and all consumers of this product please redirect your hoses into the subframe, it will save you a major headache.
The fix that we have found is to drill the subframe just above the top front cross tube and insert the breather in a downward position. There, the breather will not collect any moisture and you will not void any "warranty" they provide. This has been a sore spot with me for a while and have asked that they change their directions with no prevail, kinda frustrating seeing as its been years now and still hear of people getting fluid in their chargers and losing them.
We all know that the nytro collects a ton of snow in the nose of the sled, even if the breather is farther back or even extended to back by the block, moisture travels down and once the oil in the charger cools it creates a vacuum and will pull fluid or even vapors and over time will create damage. So please any and all consumers of this product please redirect your hoses into the subframe, it will save you a major headache.
Started working on the Intercooler last night.
Need to do some more GRINDING on the frame before it fits properly.
My goal is to have that installed this evening.!
Need to do some more GRINDING on the frame before it fits properly.
My goal is to have that installed this evening.!
Chris,
I enjoy your updates and pictures you're providing of your supercharge install. Next month I'll start on the turbo kit. I first got to reassemble my supercharge. I might post my turbo install.
I enjoy your updates and pictures you're providing of your supercharge install. Next month I'll start on the turbo kit. I first got to reassemble my supercharge. I might post my turbo install.
PLEASE DO!
I wish more of our members would snap a few photos and share their own installs and mods with the rest of us!
oh ya, all snowmobile problems can be solved with the proper application of
The universal solvent!!
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