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i think im going to turbo my ski doo 1000!

I can't wait to hear how this turns out... like it was said before. Make it run right first, then add the turbo.


I'm just saying, you just told us you can't get the sled to run stock and now your adding a turbo. Not trying to bash you, just saying that thing will be even harder to tune on boost.
 
I can't wait to hear how this turns out... like it was said before. Make it run right first, then add the turbo.


I'm just saying, you just told us you can't get the sled to run stock and now your adding a turbo. Not trying to bash you, just saying that thing will be even harder to tune on boost.
not always, my current turbo is the easiest thing I have ever tuned.
 
I think evolution of the beast is a better way to discribe why some have the smaller turbos.
in the early stages of conversion to garrett. Sizing of the turbo in vogue at the time was the basis of these decisions.

with more seat time we all learn what works and what can be made to work better.

its all ball bearings these days....:face-icon-small-ton\\


Gus
 
I can't wait to hear how this turns out... like it was said before. Make it run right first, then add the turbo.


I'm just saying, you just told us you can't get the sled to run stock and now your adding a turbo. Not trying to bash you, just saying that thing will be even harder to tune on boost.

only stuff i had to play around with was clutching, but i believe the sled was running right, it went everywhere nicely and all that stuff, just had to put more time into the clutching, i had a boonybox and all that setup and dialed in, but clutching takes a bit more time
 
only stuff i had to play around with was clutching, but i believe the sled was running right, it went everywhere nicely and all that stuff, just had to put more time into the clutching, i had a boonybox and all that setup and dialed in, but clutching takes a bit more time

Hmmm.... I remember a post on another site where you were picking Lund's brain over and over regarding the poor performance of your sled. You even posted a pic of a granny hill that you could not climb, you were fed up and ready to sell, and now a TURBO? Reminds me of the guy's at the drag strip that can't get their normally asperated motors to run right, so they add a big hit of nitrous and BOOOOOOM!!!
 
Hmmm.... I remember a post on another site where you were picking Lund's brain over and over regarding the poor performance of your sled. You even posted a pic of a granny hill that you could not climb, you were fed up and ready to sell, and now a TURBO? Reminds me of the guy's at the drag strip that can't get their normally asperated motors to run right, so they add a big hit of nitrous and BOOOOOOM!!!

ok you got me, im thinking that either it wasnt running right, or it is, and everything literally seems to be running right, aside from some clutching issues, and by that how i put 12.4g in and it seemed like too much weight, ran hollow and i guess i got rpm's but belt slippage, i really could not say why or what was up with the sled, its weird, but the engines in good condition, cranks good, new pistons/rings, everything is literally good, so really not sure what it could be, i got some k&n pods on er and there pretty big ones so i doubt they are of a issue, i dont know whats up with it, but i like the 1000's how they feel and stuff so i want to keep er, and i want to do something not many has done with a 1000, and that would be turboing er
 
ok you got me, im thinking that either it wasnt running right, or it is, and everything literally seems to be running right, aside from some clutching issues, and by that how i put 12.4g in and it seemed like too much weight, ran hollow and i guess i got rpm's but belt slippage, i really could not say why or what was up with the sled, its weird, but the engines in good condition, cranks good, new pistons/rings, everything is literally good, so really not sure what it could be, i got some k&n pods on er and there pretty big ones so i doubt they are of a issue, i dont know whats up with it, but i like the 1000's how they feel and stuff so i want to keep er, and i want to do something not many has done with a 1000, and that would be turboing er

That where I would start, they actually restrict and block the ability for air speed to build up. Maybe you need a real secondary setup. There is a really good dealer in Cody, WY that can make em rip at 10000ft. Do you have a head cam so we can watch it all, good or bad.lol
 
That where I would start, they actually restrict and block the ability for air speed to build up. Maybe you need a real secondary setup. There is a really good dealer in Cody, WY that can make em rip at 10000ft. Do you have a head cam so we can watch it all, good or bad.lol


no i dont have a helmet camera do want one for sure though, the pods people have ran em, are supposed to be good, + they are more the less pretty big pods, and are for a snowmobile, people run those timbersled setups, they are same style airfilter design just about half the size of these, i picked big pods to make sure i'd have the airflow, also i got them dalton alluminum arms that guys say is a upgrade over the steel, but its summer time, i was thinking to have the sld all turbo'd up for this upcoming winter, but its got a Dynamo joes clutch kit in er, the sled literally has all/most mods sugested other then a 2500$ skid, id rather spend 2k for a turbo any how kind of stuff ha ha,

i will include pictures of stuff i can find that might be relevant, if one wishes to ask on some of my stuff that way haha or this might be considered offtopic, but yeah ALSO my 1000 got like i dunno, 75- 80km/hr or 68-70km/hr track speed, the same as my dads 800r basically on everything, except his is a 151" and im a 161" and he goes better then me with same track speed, so we just got down to thinking its the weight...... so figure, like most sleds, how do you over come weight? power!, the more i think about it im thinking back to clutching, on longer hills and stuff where it had more traction and such, it really started to poop out, it kept rpm's but just slowed down fast, and when i think about that,

i was having belt slippage so probably related to that, putting more load on the clutching and so the belt was just slipping???? this is really off topic, but more i think about things in many different aspects the more i start to think back to my clutch, my last trip out, i said F it, ima put 12.4 g in the arms, kinda ran like poop on clicker 6, then i played around with my boonybox and then i started to pull better rpm's it felt better, but still wasnt there yet, then that was the end of snowmobiling for 2010/11

P1000218.jpg


and heres a vid, pre boondocker box (dont think it did alot) i think i had the dynamo joes on it????
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6kswGVG8i4k
 
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I have seen many sleds and worked on a few (even on the hill) when someones sled wont run they start asking my to look at it, if it has a timbersled intake or anything from BMP on it I just tell them to remove that first and then I might have something to work with. It may be off topic but I think you may want a better education on tuning first or you will be saving to rebuild. Most that are tight on money will run what they have and on a turbo that wont work. Look at any stock intake, there is not a filter and it is open for a large distance, its to create air speed, the k&n may flow air but being that tight to the motor there is no room for the air to create a vortex and speed up. Think about it this way, its got a tuned pipe, why would the intake be any different, it needs to be tuned also. As for how it runs, it sounds more like you need to be running a shallower angle helix and probably adjust your rear skid for better performance.
 
If you can't pull 8k with 12.4 grams with that setup there is a problem. Stock was a 12.3g empty pin with the steel arms. Dj's kit has been around long enough that it's proven, if your sled has a problem ( I remember it did even before you got the kit ) the clutching will not fix it.
 
yeah im not sure, i figure that because lunds running them timbersleds and his sleds going very good, that these bigger k&n pods should allow for even better airflow, but yeah i really just dont know, i have tried alot, and now i figure to throw on a turbo and tune that up and enjoy it,

because as far as that problem goes, its a what does one do, i have literally done all sorts of things looking into it and all, and i just dont know at all what it is or whats going on,

as far as turboing this sled, its not like im some random guy going to throw on a turbo and get the stuff required and hope it works, i know that i have to spend time tuning it, i will have a bunch of guys who can help me through the steps of it all,

but i do understand that one should try to fix a problem, but its moreless about throwing money at it here or there,and thats what ive done with some of the stuff, i threw money into it all, boondocker box, egt's clutch kit, stuff that was recommended that will make it run its best, and that costed a fair bit of change but made no performance impact,

i like the sled and how they are, the 1000's are heavier yes but they are a unique kind of sled, the weight i actually like, it makes it more mellow, easier to control, so i figure, add more power, which is even funner, and have a sled that i like how it feels and handles, and thats a win win to me, the rev's i do like dont get me wrong there fun too, but they do get bounced around alot, this things like a tank, it dont get bounced around, it goes through things, ha ha!
 
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Most everything will be changed with a turbo anyway, so as long as there is not some underlying problem it shouldn't matter.
 
Most everything will be changed with a turbo anyway, so as long as there is not some underlying problem it shouldn't matter.


yeah i totally agree with that, i dont think its a engine issue i think its clutching, so throwing on a turbo makes more power which will mean i need more weights/lighter spring, i get a lighter spring for the primary and that should all work out fine, with that stuff,

im sure that the engines working at its best, its just something revolving the clutching, which i figure at that, that if i turbo it, ill be tinkering with the clutch, so why dig into the clutch to make it run proper n/a when i could spend that time making it clutched properly for the turbo,
 
It really all depends if it actually is the clutch or something else. from what I have read most guys bump up the engagement a bit to decrease lag slightly and the rest stays close to the same other than increase weight alot. can play with helix's to find what works the best. you may need to put some new bushings in the thing.

This is not my experience just what I have read so dont burn me at the stake if I am wrong
 
It really all depends if it actually is the clutch or something else. from what I have read most guys bump up the engagement a bit to decrease lag slightly and the rest stays close to the same other than increase weight alot. can play with helix's to find what works the best. you may need to put some new bushings in the thing.

This is not my experience just what I have read so dont burn me at the stake if I am wrong


yeah, usually stuff like that and such, more weight, heavier arms, which the steel ones are pretty heavy,but i figure between the clickers, the arms, the weights, and springs it should be enough to dial it all in on the stock clutch, besides most of them snowmobiles use stock clutches for the turbo's any how, its all about taking time to tune it up
 
The first one is a NO, the second is closer but don't know enough to say, but I don't think it would be the best option.
 
spend the extra and get a garret. The way I look at it is do it right, do it once.
I figure you will be fighting with broken china parts the whole time and its going to cause you a huge headache and your going to have to buy several things more than once when you could have just bought a good one off the bat and not wasted money and time, plus you will get to have more enjoyable rides.
 
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