i think im going to turbo my ski doo 1000!
- Thread starter Octanee
- Start date
so bronze bearing is still a float type or what?, tried googleing the stuff but didnt fund much on it, it moreless looked like the collar that holds the bearings in, not sure if thats really what it is,
looking for something that i guess i dont got to use oil pressure on, as people say ball bearing you just need a flow of oil to keep them lubed, not oil pressure,???
looking for something that i guess i dont got to use oil pressure on, as people say ball bearing you just need a flow of oil to keep them lubed, not oil pressure,???
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No offense or anything but, I along with many others would suggest you do all of your home work on this project and pass the class before you jump in to the TURBO WORLD. Just saying if your still going to collage then why spend the money and time on this project just to see that, you don't have the money to pursue both. I would ride the machine you have and enjoy every minute on it that you aren't wrenching on it. JMO
ill have most my college stuff paid for, but i wont be going into that for another year, didnt make this years list sadly,
i have done my homework and such on everything else, its just the TURBO that im trying to figure stuff out, i wasnt sure on turbo so i asked for size and now it appears i need a ball bearing, and i cant find out if bronze bearing is actually still a sleeve like float or if shes still some sort of bearing system with dripping/flowing oil rather then oil pressure,
i got a bunch of guys that will help me as i go through the stuff, theyve done it, theyve told me what works and what dont, and what i need, so now its just a matter of finding a turbo now, i was hoping for cheaper rather then a top of the line type of thing, i dont plan to go crazy, like i said 6 pounds boost or 8 max or so, and so i would think a cheaper ball bearing turbo would handle that, i mean yeah if i was doing like 15 or 20 or something like the 4 strokes are doing, for sure i would get a quality turbo, but low boost i just figure that they would last, and others say that them cheaper ones do under lower boost, ???
i have done my homework and such on everything else, its just the TURBO that im trying to figure stuff out, i wasnt sure on turbo so i asked for size and now it appears i need a ball bearing, and i cant find out if bronze bearing is actually still a sleeve like float or if shes still some sort of bearing system with dripping/flowing oil rather then oil pressure,
i got a bunch of guys that will help me as i go through the stuff, theyve done it, theyve told me what works and what dont, and what i need, so now its just a matter of finding a turbo now, i was hoping for cheaper rather then a top of the line type of thing, i dont plan to go crazy, like i said 6 pounds boost or 8 max or so, and so i would think a cheaper ball bearing turbo would handle that, i mean yeah if i was doing like 15 or 20 or something like the 4 strokes are doing, for sure i would get a quality turbo, but low boost i just figure that they would last, and others say that them cheaper ones do under lower boost, ???
My thoughts exactly...
If you think cheap on turbo kits then you will waste all your money and when you blow it all and it fails, then you will be selling it all even cheaper to gather what you can. Pretty sure what you need is a 3076 ball bearing with a .64 housing.
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/products/turbochargers.html
this page doesn't show the a/r of the 3076, but it does show a .64 a/r on a 3071 so you need that housing on the 3076. (I think)
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/turbo_comparison_sheet.htm
The turbo should cost $1200-$1500
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/products/turbochargers.html
this page doesn't show the a/r of the 3076, but it does show a .64 a/r on a 3071 so you need that housing on the 3076. (I think)
http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarrett/catelog/Turbochargers/turbo_comparison_sheet.htm
The turbo should cost $1200-$1500
alright, thanks, and im not "going cheap" on everything, just was hoping since im not using a turbo to such performance that many are capable of that i could use a cheaper turbo, but i cant actually find a cheaper BALL bearing turbo so yeah its pretty much buying brand new turbo's it would appear
well TTT, i found this http://www.ebay.ca/itm/REAL-JDMS-GT...r_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1bff07176d i dont know a whole lot about trims and stuff, but, its a .86 and i know gus said to look for a .86? thanks!
That doesn't seem quite right in the specs but I don't know that much yet. maybe someone that does know for sure will chime in.
yeah, i guess in some luck a guy i know who hes a heavy duty mechanic, so they know turbo's but asked him what he thought about that and he says it looks decent, says it might be a bit big for the 1000, but hes into turbo'ing the 4 strokes and i know them 4 strokes dont need as big of turbo's as a 2 stroke does,
I agree. You definately have a lot to learn about clutching, piston wah, and the sorts. Spend your money on some different clutch springs to experiment with, maybe a new rear skid and learn the basics. When you have those nailed then you can use that knowledge to tune your turbo in. There's no point pushing 250hp at the primary with a turbo and only being able to get 80 to the ground. You be more disapointed in the machine than you are right now, and broke on top of that
its all about how much ones willing to spend, clutching i know i will have to get a lighter spring for the primary and combination of more weights,
and suspension wise ill keep the sled kind of as is, the guy/s ive been talking to they all kept the stock suspension and it has worked very well for them they saying, of course yes aftermarket is certainly better, but its all about how much your willing to spend, for that extra bit....
i have a dynamo joes clutch kit in the sled, but it seemed like the spring/weight setup was wrong, but for turbo'ing it, it should be moreless closer, for instance, with his spring i was running the steel arms hollow on clicker 6, so i think when i turbo it, since i can run up to 19 grams of weight and go down 5 clickers that it might be enough, if not i just buy a lighter spring, but like people saying its gonna be some time tuning it all in,
GT3076 Ball Bearing Turbocharger!!
Ball Bearing Turbocharger
Oil & Water cooled
8 blade propeler
Compressor Specs :
4" Compressor Inlet
2.126" or 54mm inducer
2.755" or 70mm Major
2.5" Outlet
Compressor .70 A.R.
Compressor 52 Trim
M24 / T4 Compressor Housing
Turbine Specs :
T25/T28 Type Turbine
T25 4 bolt flange
Turbine .86 A.R.
Turbine 76 Trim
2.079" or 52.80mm Major
M3 Turbine Housing
Exhaust Outlet Flange with 5 bolt design
Modified to use external wastegate.
Suggested for 1.5L to 2.3L engine up to 200-500HP
the stuff in red, if its a 3076 why does it have t25/28 type turbine, thats what seems odd but I don't know.
You brought up suspension, don't fool yourself with stock working on a boosted sled, I was running 6lbs of boost at 10000ft on a 09 m8, I might have actually been running stock hp if I was luck at that elevation. I put a kmod on it and looking back the turbo is near pointless without having the kmod suspension. Unless you like to go places out of control. I can't go back to a stock skid now.
Ball Bearing Turbocharger
Oil & Water cooled
8 blade propeler
Compressor Specs :
4" Compressor Inlet
2.126" or 54mm inducer
2.755" or 70mm Major
2.5" Outlet
Compressor .70 A.R.
Compressor 52 Trim
M24 / T4 Compressor Housing
Turbine Specs :
T25/T28 Type Turbine
T25 4 bolt flange
Turbine .86 A.R.
Turbine 76 Trim
2.079" or 52.80mm Major
M3 Turbine Housing
Exhaust Outlet Flange with 5 bolt design
Modified to use external wastegate.
Suggested for 1.5L to 2.3L engine up to 200-500HP
the stuff in red, if its a 3076 why does it have t25/28 type turbine, thats what seems odd but I don't know.
You brought up suspension, don't fool yourself with stock working on a boosted sled, I was running 6lbs of boost at 10000ft on a 09 m8, I might have actually been running stock hp if I was luck at that elevation. I put a kmod on it and looking back the turbo is near pointless without having the kmod suspension. Unless you like to go places out of control. I can't go back to a stock skid now.
That would be the small framed verison with internal waste gate more likley.
the comp wheel is much smaller than std frame 3076 without the internal gate option..
check the specs of both and you will see they are quite different..
u no wanty small framey...
Gus
the comp wheel is much smaller than std frame 3076 without the internal gate option..
check the specs of both and you will see they are quite different..
u no wanty small framey...
Gus
ok, so just to say, in what ways would it respond differently as to a actual garrett? like time until boost, or say when boost may start to come on? or how quick it might be on off throttle? like what differences do you think it may make?, thanks! (just curious is all)
If gus says you don't want it, there is no need for explanation. I would think it might have something to do with high charge temps though.
low flow, higher charge temps SMALLER exducer than the external gated full size version..
Its like getting your wife ONE boob job,, NOT both just ONE>..NICE ?
ATP has all this and flow chart right on the site.
The e bay cheap turbos are ball comp journal turbine.. just dont...not worth the loss of 388 dollars....LOL
extreme psi is the cheepest retailer of garrett Ive found..
Gus
Its like getting your wife ONE boob job,, NOT both just ONE>..NICE ?
ATP has all this and flow chart right on the site.
The e bay cheap turbos are ball comp journal turbine.. just dont...not worth the loss of 388 dollars....LOL
extreme psi is the cheepest retailer of garrett Ive found..
Gus
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