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Hyfax Rail Fastener

Dave,
It’s been a hide and seek issue since the ‘90s. Back to when we had a nut and bolt holding the hyfax. A lot of those stuck out the side. But I get what your saying.
 
I may be wrong but this is what I see as part of the problem. The hyfax retaining bolt has been moved to far back and is in a relieved spot in the hyfax.
The track is pulling the front of the hyfax off the rail and breaking it at the bolt.
I would drill a retaining bolt hole in the forward window and add another screw. I’m going to do that to my personal sled. I will also add larger anti stab wheels and taper the front of the hyfax.
The track clips are banging on the front of the rail as you can see in this picture. It looks very close to stabbing the track.
The rail tip is much shorter in ‘24 as well.
IMG_3105.jpeg
 
I may be wrong but this is what I see as part of the problem. The hyfax retaining bolt has been moved to far back and is in a relieved spot in the hyfax.
The track is pulling the front of the hyfax off the rail and breaking it at the bolt.
I would drill a retaining bolt hole in the forward window and add another screw. I’m going to do that to my personal sled. I will also add larger anti stab wheels and taper the front of the hyfax.
The track clips are banging on the front of the rail as you can see in this picture. It looks very close to stabbing the track.
The rail tip is much shorter in ‘24 as well.
View attachment 412761

Have you found wheels that are larger? They are already 3”
 
For the Hyfax Screw issue, I agree there was evidence of the fastener in previous years rails (without the relief hole shown in the thread),however I have not seen any protruding through the side of the rail. Obviously the drilling process is lacking consistency as TRS pic shows a properly installed fastener.

I’m surprised a lot of guys are accepting of this level of quality?

Can’t say I’m not disappointed with Polaris but I will (as usual) take from Tony’s common sense approach and recommend installation of new fastener closer to the rail end to fix their Problem!
 
I may be wrong but this is what I see as part of the problem. The hyfax retaining bolt has been moved to far back and is in a relieved spot in the hyfax.
The track is pulling the front of the hyfax off the rail and breaking it at the bolt.
I would drill a retaining bolt hole in the forward window and add another screw. I’m going to do that to my personal sled. I will also add larger anti stab wheels and taper the front of the hyfax.
The track clips are banging on the front of the rail as you can see in this picture. It looks very close to stabbing the track.
The rail tip is much shorter in ‘24 as well.
View attachment 412761
This is where I have to draw the line. That's too much work to fix. I'll just let mine rip off and they can warranty my new Boost as I ride my 23 9R 😌
 
Polaris will probably deny most warranty claims. Saying "Inproper track tension"
Just like the last time they made something stupid. And then change back to rail caps in a year or two.
 
Even if not structurally compromised, that certainly is now an ugly looking rail. Could you imagine if the manufacturer of your new 80k truck said that? If there was an incorrect bolt causing the outside sheet metal to be deformed and they said if was fine, part still structurally intact. SMH
 
I'd probably do as @TRS suggests, and maybe have the original hole welded up too. I guess I'm in a different camp than chilly on preemptive maintenance: I've currently got my engine torn apart and the crank is off to @indydan (much later than planned; long story) because the rod side clearance was out of spec when I did the top end last season. For all I know, it could go another thousand miles, but I'm not going to chance it. I'm all for holding Polaris's feet to the fire, but when a simple fix saves me a bad day on the hill and a sled that could be down for months...
 
I'd probably do as @TRS suggests, and maybe have the original hole welded up too. I guess I'm in a different camp than chilly on preemptive maintenance: I've currently got my engine torn apart and the crank is off to @indydan (much later than planned; long story) because the rod side clearance was out of spec when I did the top end last season. For all I know, it could go another thousand miles, but I'm not going to chance it. I'm all for holding Polaris's feet to the fire, but when a simple fix saves me a bad day on the hill and a sled that could be down for months...
Polaris aren't for poor people. You need to own multiple sleds and never own 1 after 2 seasons or 1,000 miles whatever comes first. If I wanted to work on snowmobiles I'd open a snowmobile shop. There is a reason Burandt's sleds have only 200-300 miles on them when he sells them. If you are poor and/or are mechanically uninclined then you need to ride Ski Doo.
 
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