How light can you get a Pro?

[snow4shover]

I would get rid of the oil injection and run premix. You will probably get 10-15 lbs right there. I have an XP and my wet weight with burped tank was 528 lbs. That is with a turbo kit and only weight reduction done is premix and front shocks.

I really want to get it under 500 lbs.

You should get a scale too....works great for the price.
550lb Game Scale


If your wet on this scale is exceeding the limit start pulling stuff off.

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

I would get rid of the oil injection and run premix. You will probably get 10-15 lbs right there. I have an XP and my wet weight with burped tank was 528 lbs. That is with a turbo kit and only weight reduction done is premix and front shocks.

I really want to get it under 500 lbs.

You should get a scale too....works great for the price.
550lb Game Scale


If your wet on this scale is exceeding the limit start pulling stuff off.

premix only wont work on a pro...because of injector placement the bottom end will not get any oil...it will take out the bottom end bearings..........

 

[Matte Murder]

Terry; Tom told me last year the Evolution Air set up I bought for my Freeride was 12lbs. When I pulled the stock skid I weighed it and then again after I bolted the rear arm and shocks in. Honest 13lbs on my scale. That is just shocks and an arm. I will weigh them when I do the install.
Geo; you are right about real lbs and unicorn pounds. Near the top of the thread I talk about the "adds" that were going back on so the net was like 20lbs. But any weight I take off is still valid. The only number I am really interested in is the sled full up on gas and oil, idling with me on it. I give up 50lbs of bodyweight to my son and riding partner. And yes I will trim as much off of me as I can.
Scott; Some weight loss is costly($300lb), some medium($100-150lbs and some is just a side benefit of other mods. Like the skid and Fox shocks I am doing. I am doing that for the better ride first, weight loss second so that money spends twice in my opinion.

 

[bryce krueger]

lmFao!!!!!

 

[cokecrazed007]

I pulled my batt out of my sled this weekend and weighted it and it was 13.5 lbs, so I'm going to try a lithem batt from earthx and they claim their batt are 2.4 lbs and will work down to -30 deg C.

 

[m1kflyingtiger]

I pulled my batt out of my sled this weekend and weighted it and it was 13.5 lbs, so I'm going to try a lithem batt from earthx and they claim their batt are 2.4 lbs and will work down to -30 deg C.

How much does the whole electric start add? Seems to me you would save more than 11.1 lbs by just pulling the cord a couple times. There's something wrong if it takes more than two pulls anyways.

 

[cokecrazed007]

I was told by my dealer that the elec start motor was only 5 lbs, but I got it because I hate starting my sled first thing in the am when its -30 deg C and it is sitting up on the deck of the truck, the e start was just a safer option for me.

 

[Snodawg]

I installed an electric start kit on my wife's Dragon last year. Out of curiosity, I weighed all the pieces ( starter, battery, brackets, starter drive, basically everything except the ring gear) and came up with about 12 lbs total. The Pro setup should be pretty much equal to the Dragon.

 

[turbo800rmk]

I have had 3 boosted sleds with boondocker setups...have almost 4000 miles on my 2011 pro...

i dont think twice about boosting anymore...10years ago was wayyy different than the kits out there now....

my sleds last just as long as my buddys......and mine are boosted....and will kick the **** out of anyone sled who is 40 pounds lighter!!!! keep spending your money like dorks with all that lightweight crap!!

 

[turboless terry]

I've had way more turboes than just three. I want to try something different, this year, like a lightweight big bore. I guess what I'm saying is I don't need some dork telling me how to spend my money.

 

[turbonium]

I have had 3 boosted sleds with boondocker setups...have almost 4000 miles on my 2011 pro...

i dont think twice about boosting anymore...10years ago was wayyy different than the kits out there now....

my sleds last just as long as my buddys......and mine are boosted....and will kick the **** out of anyone sled who is 40 pounds lighter!!!! keep spending your money like dorks with all that lightweight crap!!

Wow 3 boosted sleds. You are the coolest. You must tare the s### out of those 3500 foot peaks (buttes) in North Dakota.

You are such a bad a**

 

[mud99]

IMO, when you lighten a sled, you often times screw up the weight balance and handling.

After a big pile of cash spent on my last sled chasing a unicorn, I bought a 2012 Pro which is completely stock.

In the morning I pull the cord and go, and the sled is tuned better than any shade tree mechanic would be able to do, and thats with electric start, an extra 24lbs of gas on the rack, some ****ty ethanol gas in the tank with the low performance resistor, and a rider who is out-of-spec by any metric.

 

[LoudHandle]

Unicorns maybe fictitious but 400# RTR is achievable!

IMO, when you lighten a sled, you often times screw up the weight balance and handling.

After a big pile of cash spent on my last sled chasing a unicorn, I bought a 2012 Pro which is completely stock.

Mud,

There is no guarantee that just because you spent a metric butt ton of dollars on your sled it will handle better than stock. There are too many variables to tune and tweak with all the aftermarket stuff available. If stock works for you good enough!

On the other hand there are those of us, that for lack of a better analogy, will always chase the unicorn! Because a 400# RTR sled is just too tempting to walk away from. It will likely cost us more than 30 large to get there but Oh what a sled she will be! 400# Wet RTR, 250-300HP, approaching the power to weight ratio of a fighter jet for 1/10000 the cost, well worth it in my opinion. Carbon Fiber nearly everything and the balance aluminum and / or titanium where applicable. As the consumers for such a sled are minimal I will build every part myself that isn't already available and will lighten even the aftermarket stuff that is available to make that weight, just like I've done for nearly thirty years.

 

[mud99]

I pretty much agree with your sentiment, I was just pointing out that bolting on all the aftermarket goodies doesn't itself give you a better sled.

IMO, the Pro is very near the limit of how good a sled can be, and the aftermarket doesn't seem to be making any improvements.

Although, chasing a unicorn can be fun on its own! So do what you will.

Mud,

There is no guarantee that just because you spent a metric butt ton of dollars on your sled it will handle better than stock. There are too many variables to tune and tweak with all the aftermarket stuff available. If stock works for you good enough!

On the other hand there are those of us, that for lack of a better analogy, will always chase the unicorn! Because a 400# RTR sled is just too tempting to walk away from. It will likely cost us more than 30 large to get there but Oh what a sled she will be! 400# Wet RTR, 250-300HP, approaching the power to weight ratio of a fighter jet for 1/10000 the cost, well worth it in my opinion. Carbon Fiber nearly everything and the balance aluminum and / or titanium where applicable. As the consumers for such a sled are minimal I will build every part myself that isn't already available and will lighten even the aftermarket stuff that is available to make that weight, just like I've done for nearly thirty years.

 

[LoudHandle]

I pretty much agree with your sentiment, I was just pointing out that bolting on all the aftermarket goodies doesn't itself give you a better sled.

IMO, the Pro is very near the limit of how good a sled can be, and the aftermarket doesn't seem to be making any improvements.

Although, chasing a unicorn can be fun on its own! So do what you will.

Yes, the builder must understand how all the parts and weights interact and be able to tune them for synergy / nirvana? To end up better off than the way the PRO works stock which is a pretty tall order.

As soon as I finish the three IQR's in the garage and sell them I will be tooling up to do a complete CF chassis unless someone else has one out before then. I personally think that you could mold the same pieces from CF and be way lighter and way stronger than it is. Or lay up a custom mold and do it in essetially one piece. Shooting for 400#'s wet or at least 350# dry.

 

[milehighassassin]

http://www.rmxtreme.com/

 

[LoudHandle]

http://www.rmxtreme.com/

Thank You! So in light of the photographic evidence if one was to build the tunnel, bulkhead, fuel tank, body panels, belt drive bearing plate, Ez-ride style rear swing arm, etc. all out of CF one could easily be under 350#'s dry. One could likely build even the drive shaft out of CF and get double performance points for less inertia and weight savings. Also Patrick Carbon has carbon carbon brakes also available so another double bonus item. We are not that far from a 400# RTR sled gentelmen, any investors?

 

[milehighassassin]

Patrick Carbon has a nice trick carbon fiber clutch cover as well. The button.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[LoudHandle]

Patrick Carbon has a nice trick carbon fiber clutch cover as well. The button.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes and a recent PM from him said they were ready to put the CF body panels on the web this week also.

 

[m1kflyingtiger]

do you know what they are going to cost? I was going to get into making them, but not making a whole lot of progress