How hard is your track to turn by hand?

[mountainhorse]

I see a fair amount of resistance when the tension is correct.... meaning I have to put serious effort into turning it by hand on a stand.

The older two ply tracks didn't "wad up" or suffer from distortion as much as the single ply tracks... but they were a lot heavier tracks.

The real "myth" of looser tracks work better was from the old days when the suspension would not go to full travel because it tensioned the track too much as it moved.... Not the case any longer... The first M7 was especially bad from my recollection.

It is a difficult concept for many to wrap their heads around... even some of the very experienced people in the industry.

Tall lug tracks (more than say 2.3")... really need all the help they can get to function correctly from the tension.

My 2¢




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[Sage Crusher]

I have a 2016 2.6 Turbo Pro with KMod. When the sled was new, I really didn’t check the track tension at all since the dealer did the setup. I probably should have checked where it was prior to installing the KMod, but didn’t. 2016 (original setup) vs. 2017 (KMod) there was a huge difference in the rolling restance of the fully clipped track.

2016, it felt like every other sled I rode as you’d glide to a stop. Since installing the KMod, early 2017, the sled will not glide. It always feels like when you let go of the throttle (hard pack or powder) it always feels like I’ve applied the breaks and nose dives. Early 2017 and right now, with 10lb weight, 16” from rear idler, the measurement is 1”. Early 2017, it never ratcheted, so I know it’s tight enough. But, man it seems really tight. I know if I was to set it to 3/4”, it would be even worse.

Any of you see the same thing, or is it just me? It seems like I’m losing HP because of the resistance that is felt. Could I run it more loose with KMod to fix the issue?

Thanks YB

LongHorn- I was like you and also thought esprcially after installing the K-Mod Gen3 on my turbo Axys that the track was running tighter than it really should be .
I got lucky and was able to get with tdbaugha, and went over the entire suspension and set-up..
Yes this banjo tightnes (especially in the front ) that racks our minds- but running it 1 turn looser than what tdbaugha had originally told me to run it- track speed was down while pulling a big climb and coupler in 4. Came back and turned back to that original 1 turn- and the difference was noticable- to impressive.. I leave it , and check it each ride for what it provides.!

 

[mountainhorse]

Regardless of what suspension or drivers you are using... the tension should still be set to the correct factory specs. if you want your sled to perform.

My 2¢





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[Teth-Air]

Regardless of what suspension or drivers you are using... the tension should still be set to the correct factory specs. if you want your sled to perform.

My 2¢


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Only thing is that many guys are now loosing the track belt when running to factory tension. My rear wheels split right through the track 3 rides after stugging up to factory specs. Polaris put a new track on this season covered by warranty.

 

[Teth-Air]

Also the stock Quick-Drives are banjo tight and are not easy to turn by hand compared to the TKI or a looser chain.

 

[dgiles]

probably, whats the spec on a cat or doo, its probably about the same or just a certain spec, from the things ive read only like 25% of people care what the spec is. because loose is fast right HAHA. and ya I give mine a little push and a "yea that's good" hah

Cat's are mid-point of track, 20lb, 2" of sag. I run it with at least 2".

 

[LoudHandle]

Cat's are mid-point of track, 20lb, 2" of sag. I run it with at least 2".

That right there is why cats are known to stab track windows. All the belly is inbetween the driver and the rail tips under any real load ( like a climb).

Run it however you want but loose is not faster and you will pay for your lack of tension at some point.

 

[mountainhorse]

Cat's are mid-point of track, 20lb, 2" of sag. I run it with at least 2".

That doesn't surprise me at all.

That's still fairly tight.

Centered on the track PLUS that much weight.

I wonder what Polaris 163 would measure with double the weight they use for tension setting.... and that much further forward.

The Polaris spec is 10 lbs, 5/8" - 3/4" at a point 16" fwd of the rear wheels. (equates to about 1/3 up the rail from the rear axle)


Just simple physics.




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