Install the app
How to install the app on iOS

Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.

Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.

  • Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

How hard is your track to turn by hand?

It seems that every Polaris that I have owned didn't roll easily even if the track was loose. Whereas every Ski Doo that I have rode or helped to unload does roll much easier. I am not sure why this is but it is my very unscientific observation. Maybe one of the smart guys who read this can explain it for me.
 
It seems that every Polaris that I have owned didn't roll easily even if the track was loose. Whereas every Ski Doo that I have rode or helped to unload does roll much easier. I am not sure why this is but it is my very unscientific observation. Maybe one of the smart guys who read this can explain it for me.

In a nut shell, It is due to this;

Polaris riders are heterosexual, SkiDoo riders are Homosexual.




LOL
 
MH.
Pro's had the hyfax all the way back to the back axle.
Axys just to the start if the back wheel...gives it a chance to flex and wear more in that area.
 
Only 1/8 of an inch is the tolerance? That is a very tight window. I bet five different guys would tension the track to five different messurements. Who accually buys a scale to pull 10 lbs on the track? I just push on the track and think thats about ten pounds. lol

f31c4949095acf0f2058e2a3b89664a1.jpg

Might check your manual

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
Only 1/8 of an inch is the tolerance? That is a very tight window. I bet five different guys would tension the track to five different messurements. Who accually buys a scale to pull 10 lbs on the track? I just push on the track and think thats about ten pounds. lol

probably, whats the spec on a cat or doo, its probably about the same or just a certain spec, from the things ive read only like 25% of people care what the spec is. because loose is fast right HAHA. and ya I give mine a little push and a "yea that's good" hah
 
I get a cheap iron 10lb dumbell... and put it on the inside of the track where it's supposed to be... cost me $8 at K-mart.



.
 
During a gear change I couldn't turn the track by grabbing it and pulling on it. The tension is set correct. So then I pulled the belt and tried turning it with the secondary. It would turn then but really hard. Loosed the track and tried again it was easier but was thinking should of rotated easier then it did. Track isn't fully clipped.

I just picked up my new 174 today and I was able to back the sled off the truck by turning the track by hand.
 
MH, Good idea with the weight. Frees up both hands to work on the sled. I'd probably forget it in there when I fired up the sled and checked the alignment side to side though. :-O

Making JIS screws into junk
 
MH, Good idea with the weight. Frees up both hands to work on the sled. I'd probably forget it in there when I fired up the sled and checked the alignment side to side though. :-O

Making JIS screws into junk
I have the same weight.....and I did forget about it once. Was just trying to spin the track a little to check alignment.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 
I get a cheap iron 10lb dumbell... and put it on the inside of the track where it's supposed to be... cost me $8 at K-mart.



.

MH, serious question, do you put the weight in the middle of the tack or on each edge, one edge at a time? Would/could make a significant difference. Thanks.

And I just use one of my 10lbs bar weights, FWIW

PV
 
MH, serious question, do you put the weight in the middle of the tack or on each edge, one edge at a time? Would/could make a significant difference. Thanks.

And I just use one of my 10lbs bar weights, FWIW

PV

The manual shows the 10# being centered.
 
PV,

I'm sure a 10 pound plate would work too... as long as it fit between the rails.


.
 
Sorry just saw this.....front of sled is to the left in this pic. I'm going to clip the track when I install my TKI and 8T drivers.


It looks like the leading edge of the clip... and the rubber is wearing more than the rear edge... makes sense that the track is wrinkling the track as it goes down the hyfax... when the paddle "folds" ... the clip is put more on edge, as would be the rubber IMO.

the paddle design is stiffer on the 2.6... and taller... this may be making the difference... and track tension may not be able to overcome this...

But... proper tension will help IF this is the issue.


.
 
It's strange that this problem should show up now... they've been running the same tension and single ply tracks since the ProRide platform was introduced.

The differences on the AXYS tracks....
Taller lugs (2.6"& 3" vs 2.4") and 7 tooth drivers.

Hyfax is the same, track ply and clipping is the same.

There are a couple of key changes that explain this:

Take a look at the photos of my track (fully clipped now).

The 2.6" lug track and the 3" no longer have the rubber guide nubs that the older 2.4" lug track has (out side of the rail). This loss of nubs makes the damage more evident and also allows the track to wander off the hyfax. As you can see the damage is in front of the lug and outside the normal alignment of the hyfax. As the lugs twist forward,(on acceleration) the front of the lug pushes up into the hyfax and wears quickly. There is some wear on my 2015 track too, but not near the wear as on my 2016 AXYS track. By fully clipping the track this twist results in metal on hyfax rather than rubber on hyfax. You probably could get away with simple flat top clips but I choose to go with guided clips to improve the track alignment as we spend most of the day on sidehills. I expect trail riders in good snow may see less of a problem. When Polaris decided to lose the rubber guide nubs in the new tracks, they should have changed the clip location to the lugs. This is how other manufactures do it.

2016-07-14 08.17.54.jpg 2016-07-14 08.18.07.jpg 2016-07-14 08.18.24.jpg
 
Last edited:
There are a couple of key changes that explain this:

Take a look at the photos of my track (fully clipped now).

The 2.6" lug track and the 3" no longer have the rubber guide nubs that the older 2.4" lug track has (out side of the rail). This loss of nubs makes the damage more evident and also allows the track to wander off the hyfax. As you can see the damage is in front of the lug and outside the normal alignment of the hyfax. As the lugs twist forward,(on acceleration) the front of the lug pushes up into the hyfax and wears quickly. There is some wear on my 2015 track too, but not near the wear as on my 2016 AXYS track. By fully clipping the track this twist results in metal on hyfax rather than rubber on hyfax. You probably could get away with simple flat top clips but I choose to go with guided clips to improve the track alignment as we spend most of the day on sidehills. I expect trail riders in good snow may see less of a problem. When Polaris decided to lose the rubber guide nubs in the new tracks, they should have changed the clip location to the lugs. This is how other manufactures do it.

What did you use for a track clipping tool?
 
What did you use for a track clipping tool?

There are several types on the market but we use the type that comes apart to reach through the track windows and then assembles over the clip. This way the track can be clipped without removing the skid. It also reaches over any size of lug.

They are found on Amazon in the USA or we sell them for $120 CDN.

Chris

2016-08-03 09.44.45.jpg
 
Premium Features



Back
Top