How hard is your track to turn by hand?
- Thread starter 562xp
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I worked with Mike at IceAge on this back in 2008.... made a few sets of straight rails with similar undercut on the rear rail.... no difference in wear on those..
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I could see this reducing wear when using reverse.
Polaris cop out....
This is clearly a design problem. Polaris needs to do the clipping under warranty. They are losing my loyalty. This is poor business practice. I'm definitely riding the other brands this year, dealing with Polaris warranty department and my dealer on this issue last spring was a nightmare. Cat dealer and Arctic cat have treated my brother much better.
This is clearly a design problem. Polaris needs to do the clipping under warranty. They are losing my loyalty. This is poor business practice. I'm definitely riding the other brands this year, dealing with Polaris warranty department and my dealer on this issue last spring was a nightmare. Cat dealer and Arctic cat have treated my brother much better.
To those that are not sure about clipping your track and have a 163 x 2.6" you can look at the one lug that Polaris did clip and compare it to the rest that are unclipped. This is the lug that is the "extra" lug on the track where they joined the rubber belt. (the 3" does not have this) Anyway this window is not worn like the rest.
Secondly for those going to 8 tooth drivers, I am sure that will work great but I have already smashed one tooth over on my middle driver on my stock set up. I would be concerned that the 8 tooth drivers hang down even more and are going to get hit and damaged or the driveshaft will get broken.
Anyone have pictures before and after to get an idea of how much change there is in how far they hang down and secondly how much track tension adjustment results?
Secondly for those going to 8 tooth drivers, I am sure that will work great but I have already smashed one tooth over on my middle driver on my stock set up. I would be concerned that the 8 tooth drivers hang down even more and are going to get hit and damaged or the driveshaft will get broken.
Anyone have pictures before and after to get an idea of how much change there is in how far they hang down and secondly how much track tension adjustment results?
To quote a relative of mine who's been in school for 10 years and currently has his "Master of Engineering" in structural with a strong passion for mechanical... This quote was taken immediately after he saw the Polaris frame designs on the RZR 1000 and the Pro RMK.
"Hahahahahahahahahahahahaha"
Normally I'd take that with a grain of salt but after seeing their failures (nice engines) for several years in a row now.... I'm inclined to believe that those Polaris "engineers" were not the first picks in their industry.
Finished clipping 3 sleds sporting the 2.6 x 163 Axys this weekend- Tried something different..
I clipped 2 with guided clips and mine with unguided- will see if there is a noticable ( if any) difference throught the season of riding..
My track clip tool ( off amazon) finally crapped out after 5 sleds.. so giving them a call to see if they will stand behind this el' cheapo' tool..
I clipped 2 with guided clips and mine with unguided- will see if there is a noticable ( if any) difference throught the season of riding..
My track clip tool ( off amazon) finally crapped out after 5 sleds.. so giving them a call to see if they will stand behind this el' cheapo' tool..
When Polaris decided to lose the rubber guide nubs in the new tracks, they should have changed the clip location to the lugs. This is how other manufactures do it.
Probably the best post here !!!!
Probably the best post here !!!!
V
volcano buster
Well-known member
Take the key out and leave it with the weight.
When I take my rain gear out of my truck to hang up to dry in the shop, I leave my pickup keys with them so I don't drive off without them in the morning.
Let me guess . . . both you and your "relative" ride doo doo sleds . . ?
Its good to hear he's so passionate about it, unfortunately not everybody makes the cut.
Loaded my sled today and snapped this shot of one of my paddles folded over on the tailgate. I think it's safe to say you hit the nail on the head as to what's causing the wear issues. Granted my track is fully clipped now but it's easy enough to imagine how sidehilling exacerbates it
Track Tension, rolling resistance
I have a 2016 2.6 Turbo Pro with KMod. When the sled was new, I really didn’t check the track tension at all since the dealer did the setup. I probably should have checked where it was prior to installing the KMod, but didn’t. 2016 (original setup) vs. 2017 (KMod) there was a huge difference in the rolling restance of the fully clipped track.
2016, it felt like every other sled I rode as you’d glide to a stop. Since installing the KMod, early 2017, the sled will not glide. It always feels like when you let go of the throttle (hard pack or powder) it always feels like I’ve applied the breaks and nose dives. Early 2017 and right now, with 10lb weight, 16” from rear idler, the measurement is 1”. Early 2017, it never ratcheted, so I know it’s tight enough. But, man it seems really tight. I know if I was to set it to 3/4”, it would be even worse.
Any of you see the same thing, or is it just me? It seems like I’m losing HP because of the resistance that is felt. Could I run it more loose with KMod to fix the issue?
Thanks YB
I have a 2016 2.6 Turbo Pro with KMod. When the sled was new, I really didn’t check the track tension at all since the dealer did the setup. I probably should have checked where it was prior to installing the KMod, but didn’t. 2016 (original setup) vs. 2017 (KMod) there was a huge difference in the rolling restance of the fully clipped track.
2016, it felt like every other sled I rode as you’d glide to a stop. Since installing the KMod, early 2017, the sled will not glide. It always feels like when you let go of the throttle (hard pack or powder) it always feels like I’ve applied the breaks and nose dives. Early 2017 and right now, with 10lb weight, 16” from rear idler, the measurement is 1”. Early 2017, it never ratcheted, so I know it’s tight enough. But, man it seems really tight. I know if I was to set it to 3/4”, it would be even worse.
Any of you see the same thing, or is it just me? It seems like I’m losing HP because of the resistance that is felt. Could I run it more loose with KMod to fix the issue?
Thanks YB
Tension of the track is not just to keep it from ratcheting though.
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I do realize that, but it’s just weird to see how it has so much resistance. Do you see the exact same affect? Thanks for the reply MH!
Coasting resistance doesn't really matter. When under power you're pulling the track over the drivers and any excess track length and/or stretch gets wadded up at the front of the rails. When coasting your track is pulling the drivers and any excess length and/or stretch can float freely in the tunnel.
Run your track loose and check track speed in a climb and then run it tight and you'll see a big difference.
Run your track loose and check track speed in a climb and then run it tight and you'll see a big difference.
No offense to your relative, but 10 years? In structural? Aka steel and concrete beam sizing? So he is a good source of info.
I have multiple college buddies who work at Polaris, they all have their masters, and it took them 5 or 6 years to get it and from Michigan Tech, one of the best engineering schools in the country.
Maybe your relative should pass his classes, graduate, and join the real world where you have a budget and time constraints to get product out the door.
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