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HOT NEW PRODUCT - M-Series Air Frame Running Boards

From the pictures, it looks like you have to cut off your entire stock running board basically and lay this in it's place??? How does it keep it's strength and not twist from weight applied if there is nothing to support the outer edge? Is it just supported on the whole outer edge by up in the very front in the foot-well and the back part there alone? Also, from my experience, any kind of ice-screw is basically a sheetmetal screw and loosens up over time. What are you doing to keep all of these "sheetmetal screws" tight over time? Great concept, but very skeptical of the design?

Aaron
 
From the pictures, it looks like you have to cut off your entire stock running board basically and lay this in it's place??? How does it keep it's strength and not twist from weight applied if there is nothing to support the outer edge? Is it just supported on the whole outer edge by up in the very front in the foot-well and the back part there alone? Also, from my experience, any kind of ice-screw is basically a sheetmetal screw and loosens up over time. What are you doing to keep all of these "sheetmetal screws" tight over time? Great concept, but very skeptical of the design?

Aaron

That's the first thing I thought of after seeing the pictures, That aluminum won't be strong enough for a guy like me leaning all my 200+lbs of weight on one of those boards to sidehill. Looks good, but I don't think it'll be strong enough. Just my opinion though.
 
another joke from these guys

looks like someone got drunk and threw some pretzels! way over engineered were not building rockets. and if im gonna buy a bag that costs 180 bucks it better go on my back when im done.... wait a minute did i just say that! heck 400 bucks and a backpack from wally world a bunch of beer a bbq and food hell thats a week of fun for four guys. sorry i know you meant well but wow i can hold a 18 pack and 2.6 gallons of spodie here. and look at my boards there clean except for side of tunnel and back of foot hold . AT LEAST YOU DID'NT SPEND ALOT OF TIME ON THEM!
P3120142.jpg
 
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From the pictures, it looks like you have to cut off your entire stock running board basically and lay this in it's place??? How does it keep it's strength and not twist from weight applied if there is nothing to support the outer edge? Is it just supported on the whole outer edge by up in the very front in the foot-well and the back part there alone? Also, from my experience, any kind of ice-screw is basically a sheetmetal screw and loosens up over time. What are you doing to keep all of these "sheetmetal screws" tight over time? Great concept, but very skeptical of the design?

Aaron

Yes, you DO cut off your entire running board. The new boards mount in the exact same locations as the stock set up. The mounting points are the same and the outside rail is stronger or equal too oem....agreed?

The part that fills in the rest is now tubular aluminum vs aluminum sheet metal. In my world that means stronger, either way at the VERY least they wouldn't be any worse than your stock boards. Hypothetically.

looks like someone got drunk and threw some pretzels! way over engineered were not building rockets. and if im gonna buy a bag that costs 180 bucks it better go on my back when im done.... wait a minute did i just say that! heck 400 bucks and a backpack from wally world a bunch of beer a bbq and food hell thats a week of fun for four guys. sorry i know you meant well but wow i can hold a 18 pack and 2.6 gallons of spodie here. and look at my boards there clean except for side of tunnel and back of foot hold . AT LEAST YOU DID'NT SPEND ALOT OF TIME ON THEM!
P3120142.jpg

I'm speechless! :face-icon-small-con
 
Yes, you DO cut off your entire running board. The new boards mount in the exact same locations as the stock set up. The mounting points are the same and the outside rail is stronger or equal too oem....agreed?

The part that fills in the rest is now tubular aluminum vs aluminum sheet metal. In my world that means stronger, either way at the VERY least they wouldn't be any worse than your stock boards. Hypothetically.

It depends how the inside tube mounts to the tunnel? I don't see any hardware. IF it is attached to the tunnel from underneath or from inside the tunnel with steel rivets it should theoretically be strong enough. If it is not, than that outside tube is just going to act like a pivot point and cause major problems. Also, you didn't address the "sheetmetal" screws loosening or backing out?

Aaron

SPGArcticCatAirframeRunningBoardsAC.jpg
 
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It depends how the inside tube mounts to the tunnel? I don't see any hardware. IF it is attached to the tunnel from underneath or from inside the tunnel with steel rivets it should theoretically be strong enough. If it is not, than that outside tube is just going to act like a pivot point and cause major problems. Also, you didn't address the "sheetmetal" screws loosening or backing out?

Aaron

SPGArcticCatAirframeRunningBoardsAC.jpg

They're probably riveted from underneath. Good concept, but it looks very unfinished towards the rear. As for the price.......high like the rest of their stuff. Must cost a lot building mountain sled parts in Minnesota??!!
 
It depends how the inside tube mounts to the tunnel? I don't see any hardware. IF it is attached to the tunnel from underneath or from inside the tunnel with steel rivets it should theoretically be strong enough. If it is not, than that outside tube is just going to act like a pivot point and cause major problems. Also, you didn't address the "sheetmetal" screws loosening or backing out?

Aaron

SPGArcticCatAirframeRunningBoardsAC.jpg

Stud Issue:

These are ice studs made by a company that makes ice studs. Since they are going into aluminum, Skinz has determined the size of hole that sort of bonds them in when they are installed. A special coating has been put on them that prevents them from corroding or corroding between the screw and the aluminum. Skinz has run them and has never seen one of them come out or get loose.


Strength concerns:

The outer tube edge is strong enough that they cut a 5' piece, block it on both ends, and put a 225lb guy standing in the middle of it and it didn't bend. That wass without the rest of the frame and not riveted into the tunnel. High grade aluminum with a 1/4" wall makes them VERY STRONG.

These might help, installation on all models are very much the same so here are the installation instructions for your viewing pleasure.
SPGSkiDooAirFrameRunningBoardIns-3.jpg

SPGSkiDooAirFrameRunningBoardIns-2.jpg

SPGSkiDooAirFrameRunningBoardIns-1.jpg

SPGSkiDooAirFrameRunningBoardInst-P.jpg


Here is an M owner who carries a hammer to clear the ice from their boards. You have to remember, snow is different all over depending on moisture content, temp, elevation etc....a guy in CO may not see the need for them but a guy in Michigan could.

IMG_1659_1.jpg
 
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Yep, have to clear mine with a stick or something every time we stop, even with snow eliminators. Boots take a hell of a beating too. Spring time is the worse. Like the design. Initial price might seem steep, but if it saves having to buy new boots every year or other year and time spent digging out iced up snow on the boards, maybe worth it. Can’t wait to see/read ‘real world’ reviews and how these stack up against No Snos. Seems guys have better luck with No Snos versus Eliminators.

Another quick question, what is the diameter of the inner tube? Just curious how much it increases rider height, although it doesn’t appear much.
 
Like 'em

I think they look trick.....

As far as the price, ya...its high...but the cost to build them has to be pretty high also. There is a lot of tig welding there. I bet at that price the profit margin is pretty narrow.

I like the tube idea....I bet it works real well.
 
You have to drill all the studs in on your own? I'd think @ $500 you could have at least done that.

The studs are left out for YOUR benefit! You can put as many or as few in as you wish. Same for location, not everyone will want ALL of them installed in the same spot. I think it's great that they let you make the call on what the individual wants.
 
Thanks for the install post! They appear to be good quality and plenty strong the way they are mounted.

Aaron
 
I built and ran a running board similar to that style years back out of alum tube. The problem with the alum tube is were the hole is drilled for the traction cleat the tube stress cracked after a while around the hole.

Not sure how much use time they have on these but thats the problem I had.
 
IMO if you go to the trouble of designing and marketing a running board to replace a good running board like the late model AC ones, you should add some added ergonomics.

A flatter running board in relation to the ground (snow? lol) would be a very noticeable improvement in comfort and control. Walking back uphill on the boards going downhill or picking a balance position for a carve uphill has always bugged me. Need my bars to move back too LOL.

I built a set for a mod 670 I had back when you needed to mod a sled for the deep stuff. They started higher up on the tunnel at the front and lower at the back. the higher foot placement at the front gave me more leverage with my feet on the sled and as I moved back to balance the sled for whatever, the bars stayed in the same relationship to my body.

They were nice. I don't know why I haven't done it again. Every season I think about it, but the sleds are so darn good stock now-a-days I just ride I quess. Maybe this year LOL.

geo
 
In my opinion, they are!!

Well, that may be your opinion......and you're entitled to it. I must say that the Skinz running boards are a step in the right direction but the rear drop bracket treatment makes the rear of them look less than acceptable IMO. The price is like everything else they sell.....expensive!!!!!! Just finished riding some prototype running board inserts on my M sled and I think someone has figured out how to give the same, if not better performance for under $200.
 
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