FYI- Polaris Pro RMK Driveshaft fix by EdgeWorks.

[ezra]

What i become sick off is how everybody is making such a big deal out of the broken driveshafts. People are already too scared too ride their new sled on the snow, because off all the comotion around the driveshaft failures. And these various companyes exploiting the situation too sell these so called fix kit, are not helping either.

What about all the sleds that dont break driveshafts? Do they have faulty driveshafts, because they dont break? Or is it more reasonable that it's the 15-20 driveshafts that have broken, that are the ones faulty?

that is just great if going trail riding in your back yard,
but some guys got a new pro and the first trip will be 16hr drive with no intention of staying close to the trail should they just hold there head in the sand or pull out there Polaris pom poms or try to be proactive so it wont rune there and the other guys in the crews vacation?

and u say only 15 0r 20 busted.ok so how many guys have snow and can ride 5% or less and would u say of that 5% a solid 20% are busting yeah guys should just pretend it is all ok

 

[Dazzler]

I will have nothing to do with the Poo driveshaft issue......except for this.....

Yet another failure.....someone sent it to me on my phone, not even sure who's sled it was.

It looks like there is possibly a rub mark on there..... LOL (sorry couldn't resist...)That looks alot like mine last saturday, by the time we threw in the towel..... My theory on the collar fix is this, I don't believe that all the drive shafts will fail, so the collar fix may or may not be any more than piece of mind on most.... which is not a bad thing... as well most of us will throw $100.00 at a lot less worthy items. However it may just be enough of a bandaid to run some out of warranty that are destined to fail!!! as some people don't put as many miles on in a winter as others!! As for rub marks on shaft from fix collars?? I highly doubt that, that will deny any warranty as after mine let go we went back to the truck, picked up a cordless drill, some self tapping screws and put several screws in after the fact to try to limp the sled back to the trailer...... it worked for a short while but didn't make the trailer.. even with a sled pulling. My failed axle has been replaced by polaris and trust me it had more than a few little rub marks!!!! They did take pics of failed axle, under hood, exhaust, and odometer... Hope this helps!!!

 

[Sunvang]

that is just great if going trail riding in your back yard,
but some guys got a new pro and the first trip will be 16hr drive with no intention of staying close to the trail should they just hold there head in the sand or pull out there Polaris pom poms or try to be proactive so it wont rune there and the other guys in the crews vacation?

and u say only 15 0r 20 busted.ok so how many guys have snow and can ride 5% or less and would u say of that 5% a solid 20% are busting yeah guys should just pretend it is all ok

Not sayin it wont happen to someone, but it wont to everyone. Its not all ok, these things should not happen, but people are hyping this way out of portion. And I think these fix kits wont do any good, if your driveshaft was faulty, it will fail, fix kit or not.

 

[skibreeze]

Not sayin it wont happen to someone, but it wont to everyone. Its not all ok, these things should not happen, but people are hyping this way out of portion. And I think these fix kits wont do any good, if your driveshaft was faulty, it will fail, fix kit or not.

Agree to disagree, the collar will help keep the shafts from wallowing out and keep people on the snow until a factory fix is available.

 

[nuggetau]

Agree to disagree, the collar will help keep the shafts from wallowing out and keep people on the snow until a factory fix is available.

Completely wrong!!! The clamp does absolutely nothing to stabalize the joint between the extrusion and the shaft cap. Once "wallowing" begins, failure is certain!

The clamp will prolong how long it takes to tear out the side wall in the extrusion(by how much is anyones guess), but since the weak part has been strengthened you have now transfered more force elsewhere when it does fail, likely to the casting supporting the steel shaft.

The clamp "fix" just over the extrusion, is like putting an ace bandage on a blown out knee and thinking you can go out and run again.

 

[backcountryislife]

Completely wrong!!! The clamp does absolutely nothing to stabalize the joint between the extrusion and the shaft cap. Once "wallowing" begins, failure is certain!

The clamp will prolong how long it takes to tear out the side wall in the extrusion(by how much is anyones guess), but since the weak part has been strengthened you have now transfered more force elsewhere when it does fail, likely to the casting supporting the steel shaft.

The clamp "fix" just over the extrusion, is like putting an ace bandage on a blown out knee and thinking you can go out and run again.

Well... I like your idea BETTER, and think it's a more thorough answer, but I still feel that a basic collar will give clamping force to keep the shaft cap in place, and keep it from starting to wallow out.

 

[nuggetau]

Well... I like your idea BETTER, and think it's a more thorough answer, but I still feel that a basic collar will give clamping force to keep the shaft cap in place, and keep it from starting to wallow out.

Sorry, my previous post was kinda surly, got up this morning and found out I didn't win that 1/2 a billion dollars.


The current clamp actually doesn't clamp like a garden hose, there is no compression of the extrusion to provide any more gripping force on the steel hex cap, if there was deformation of the extrusion that would be a problem in itself.

 

[Avi8tormd]

Sorry, my previous post was kinda surly, got up this morning and found out I didn't win that 1/2 a billion dollars.


The current clamp actually doesn't clamp like a garden hose, there is no compression of the extrusion to provide any more gripping force on the steel hex cap, if there was deformation of the extrusion that would be a problem in itself.

The Edgeworks clamp is designed in such a way as it will provide "some additional" equal pressure to all sides of the drive shaft.

 

[nuggetau]

The Edgeworks clamp is designed in such a way as it will provide "some additional" equal pressure to all sides of the drive shaft.

These 3 clamps help to contain the force, but they don't compress the extrusion enough to provide any real clamping force to the steel hex, if they did that would be an epic failure.

 

[skibreeze]

Open your mind for a second. A wrench doesn't compress on a nut when it torques on it and it still works. The collar will prevent the inner steel piece from bending the aluminum piece and then destroying itself.

A silly example of this is wrapping tape over a bolt to prevent the wrench from scratching it. Obvoiusly the tape is not strong at all, it is just a layer inbetween the wrench and bolt. In the shafts case, the aluminum is the tape.

 

[LoudHandle]

Open your mind for a second. A wrench doesn't compress on a nut when it torques on it and it still works. The collar will prevent the inner steel piece from bending the aluminum piece and then destroying itself.

A silly example of this is wrapping tape over a bolt to prevent the wrench from scratching it. Obvoiusly the tape is not strong at all, it is just a layer inbetween the wrench and bolt. In the shafts case, the aluminum is the tape.

We got your point and we'll raise you one! The only thing keeping the hex in the now clamped tube is the bearings being held in the tunnel sides. We already have seen plenty of pics on here of this area being buckled from hard hits. If the glue fails that hex stub end at some point in time will beat the tunnel wide enough to fall out. Will it buy you some amount of time? Maybe / maybe not, it all depends on the conditions at the time. Personally I would rather have a simple driveshaft failure, than a totaled sled, but it is ultimately your call. Either way you are towing or choppering your sled out. To each his own.

 

[bosssho]

We got your point and we'll raise you one! The only thing keeping the hex in the now clamped tube is the bearings being held in the tunnel sides. We already have seen plenty of pics on here of this area being buckled from hard hits. If the glue fails that hex stub end at some point in time will beat the tunnel wide enough to fall out. Will it buy you some amount of time? Maybe / maybe not, it all depends on the conditions at the time. Personally I would rather have a simple driveshaft failure, than a totaled sled, but it is ultimately your call. Either way you are towing or choppering your sled out. To each his own.

So all ball busting and cynicism aside...are you saying the $150 I just spent on two collars will total my sled if/when it fails vs. just losing the drive shaft if left alone....

 

[LoudHandle]

So all ball busting and cynicism aside...are you saying the $150 I just spent on two collars will total my sled if/when it fails vs. just losing the drive shaft if left alone....

Yes, glad to see you got the point / picture also. That is exactly what a few of us have been trying to convey to the people all caught up in this mass hysteria.

If you use a clamp and suffer a glue joint issue it will at some point in time spread the tunnel enough for the stub to disconnect from the driveshaft extrusion; the tunnel will likely suffer non-reversable damage, and require complete replacement (about $3000 in parts, plus the labor) for that (installing the "fix it clamp") I could foresee Papa Polaris denying any warranty liability for the damages.

However if you hadn't installed the clamp; the shaft may or may not still fail but your Bulkhead and tunnel would most likely survive to ride another day.

 

[Avi8tormd]

Yes, glad to see you got the point / picture also. That is exactly what a few of us have been trying to convey to the people all caught up in this mass hysteria.

If you use a clamp and suffer a glue joint issue it will at some point in time spread the tunnel enough for the stub to disconnect from the driveshaft extrusion; the tunnel will likely suffer non-reversable damage, and require complete replacement (about $3000 in parts, plus the labor) for that (installing the "fix it clamp") I could foresee Papa Polaris denying any warranty liability for the damages.

However if you hadn't installed the clamp; the shaft may or may not still fail but your Bulkhead and tunnel would most likely survive to ride another day.

Do you think that the tunnel can spread apart that much and the stub will pull out. Just about 8 inches aft of the drive shaft the front rear scissor is bolted in the tunnel and adds structural ridigity. I know things flex but I dont think that much and if it did, how would it damage the bulk head. The driveshaft is contained inside of the track. I am just trying to understand your point of view.

 

[mike_s]

Yes, glad to see you got the point / picture also. That is exactly what a few of us have been trying to convey to the people all caught up in this mass hysteria.

If you use a clamp and suffer a glue joint issue it will at some point in time spread the tunnel enough for the stub to disconnect from the driveshaft extrusion; the tunnel will likely suffer non-reversable damage, and require complete replacement (about $3000 in parts, plus the labor) for that (installing the "fix it clamp") I could foresee Papa Polaris denying any warranty liability for the damages.

However if you hadn't installed the clamp; the shaft may or may not still fail but your Bulkhead and tunnel would most likely survive to ride another day.

Wow. Just wow. Um, maybe im just tired, but how is a failure with the clamp any different than a failure without the clamp? In both situations, the drive shaft is being lost as a structural member, and in both cases the destruction will be simmiler. And, as stated, there is a suspension cross shaft maybe what, 10 inches back?

So, by your way of thinking im best off to never think, and let people do everything for me and trust them to fix it for me if something does go wrong...you're a democrat, arent you?

 

[bosssho]

Yes, glad to see you got the point / picture also. That is exactly what a few of us have been trying to convey to the people all caught up in this mass hysteria.

If you use a clamp and suffer a glue joint issue it will at some point in time spread the tunnel enough for the stub to disconnect from the driveshaft extrusion; the tunnel will likely suffer non-reversable damage, and require complete replacement (about $3000 in parts, plus the labor) for that (installing the "fix it clamp") I could foresee Papa Polaris denying any warranty liability for the damages.

However if you hadn't installed the clamp; the shaft may or may not still fail but your Bulkhead and tunnel would most likely survive to ride another day.

I am heading to bed...almost 1AM over here, but mark my words...you will see one of the best looking sleds in history burning in effigy on youtube if POLARIS puts me in the position to choose between using their nephew rigged concoction which is set up to fail on me (which could cause me serious bodily harm regardless) and trying to be proactive and man up to do some preventative maintenance vs. their *****footing around lawyers and ignoring all of us....night, night.

 

[skibreeze]

We got your point and we'll raise you one! The only thing keeping the hex in the now clamped tube is the bearings being held in the tunnel sides. We already have seen plenty of pics on here of this area being buckled from hard hits. If the glue fails that hex stub end at some point in time will beat the tunnel wide enough to fall out. Will it buy you some amount of time? Maybe / maybe not, it all depends on the conditions at the time. Personally I would rather have a simple driveshaft failure, than a totaled sled, but it is ultimately your call. Either way you are towing or choppering your sled out. To each his own.

You keep acting like these clamps are supposed to be a permanent fix and the are not. They are a stop gap measure so guys can ride.

Very simply, it is intended for the guys that want better odds of reliably getting some miles on their sleds before Polaris develops a permanent solution. You break a shaft now, you are gonna be parked for how many weeks? You don't like the collars, fine don't buy one, but there are a bunch of people that aren't willing to have a broken sled with no idea how long it takes for Poo to fix it.

 

[LoudHandle]

Wow. Just wow. Um, maybe im just tired, but how is a failure with the clamp any different than a failure without the clamp? In both situations, the drive shaft is being lost as a structural member, and in both cases the destruction will be simmiler. And, as stated, there is a suspension cross shaft maybe what, 10 inches back?

So, by your way of thinking im best off to never think, and let people do everything for me and trust them to fix it for me if something does go wrong...you're a democrat, arent you?

First off; I am NOT by any stretch of anyones imagination affiliated in any way with the Democratic party or their BS views. I have worked every day of my life and never have nor ever will accept any handouts or help from anyone. What chaps my *** the most about the Demos is giving away my hard earned and stolen "tax" dollars to undeserving bastards. When 70% of the country is collecting some form of check from the Government and the other 30% of us are paying for it; That is just Fuc_ed UP!

Back to topic:
I'll attempt to explain my rational so all can form their own opinion:

If we go back to the nut and socket analogy; as long as you maintain pressure towards the nut with the socket it will turn and stay engaged with each other. As designed the glue is the pressure that keeps the stub end and the hex driveshaft extrusion engaged.

If we start bull****ting with our buddy while wrenching and do not maintain axial alignment with the nut and socket it will try and climb off the nut and we get skinned knuckles. The same thing happens with or without the clamp if the glue should fail. The track tension will try and pull the extrusion towards the rear, the belt will try and pull the stub up levering the hex down. Without the clamp this is a quick failure of the extrusion and the drive shaft extrusion and the dummy stub end lever harmlessly rearward in the self aligning bearing, leaving the driven stub end spinning harmlessly with nothing attached. When You compound the problem with the 3 manufactured clamps known to date. The same thing happens but it can't instantaneously break free of the extrusion so it starts rattling around inside the clamped extrusion and due to the misalignment forces inherent to the snowmobile's standard drivetrain (track tension and belt / chain tension) it starts to increase the clearances and climb away from each other. At some point this force will most likely start to deform the tunnel sides. my guess is the clutch bearing side will dish out before the glued cast aluminum bearing plate side. It won't take the full 1/2" that the hex is engaged in the extrusion, it only needs enough of a burr in the extrusion to start climbing out. Much like installing or removing a tire from a wheel / rim.

As far as the bulkhead in my previous post; it likely will not deform to that extent. I should have said bearing plate or as Polaris calls it the belt backer assy.

As for my professional background for you that may be skeptical:

I have 30 years of Welding, Machining, and project design and implementation experience for Alyeska Pipeline, the company that Runs Maintains the Trans-Alaska Pipeline. Pedigreed engineers call me all the time to help them decide the best way to fabricate a problem part or design a system and build the prototype. It is a fun challenging and rewarding job and helps to break up the monotony of the everyday grind. The reason I have excelled in this area is largely due to my passion for snowmobiles and my drive and research into making them as light as possible WITHOUT COMPROMISING STRENGTH. I have build many 400# full mod hill climbers using the best of the aftermarket parts and improving on them in both strength and lightness all while eliminating friction where desirable.

This may well be more than you asked for but that is my take. I'm hoping that is just a glue or tolerance issue and we can ride the sh_t out of these soon!

 

[skibreeze]

The first shaft destroyed with a collar will determine the winner. lol

 

[m8magicandmystery]

Loudhandle....your elbow sore reaching back there and patting yourself on the back...just kidding...lol..