hopefully john(johnny wick from ak) will chime in once he rides his new D-7 that curt just finished..he has the hex shaft on a camo 174 behind curts turbo kit..looks like it will be bad ***....http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=164596
For those of you who are thinking of running the Power Claw track on your PRO-RMK
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
P
pura vida
Well-known member
for those of you who are running combo drivers how did you get them lined up correctly? i was looking at my 07 rmk drive shaft that currently has involute drivers on it and i don't see how i have enough room to put the combo's on? the splines on the shaft do not extend far enough on the clutch side of the shaft to align the combos with the track? am i missing something???
pv
pv
The avid drivers have a counterbore in them to fit the 2006 and up driveshafts.
One of the Avid drives are made to fit over the non splined area of the driveshaft, so that the driver can get lined up correctly. Half of the driver still grips the splines
Just a update on my power claw setup by the numbers.
1. I cut off every other mini nub with a very sharp knife (takes about 30 minutes)
2. I was running un modified Avid 7-tooth drivers, but then switched to Fastrax Hex shaft with 8-tooth Wahl drivers.
3. I am running a SLP anti stab kit.
4. I had to grind off some material from the back of my rails so that that track wouldnt hit the rails.
5. I ran a pre-stretched track, and would suggest the same if you run 8-tooth drivers, as there is very little adjustment at the real idlers.
6. I have about the same amount of clearance in the tunnel as I did with the stock track, and even though a drop and roll my be benificial it is not mandatory.
7. The power claw track is AWESOME!!!! When compared to the 5.1 track.
On another note, I do have 7-tooth 3.0 pitch avids and the stock shaft with bearing installed for sale. The driver that is on the pto side is pressed on to far and is distorted, I believe that if you reset the driver to where its suppose to be, all will be fine. I ran it like this for 50 miles and the track didnt run true, but I know it can be fixed. The drivers cost $260, the shaft cost almost $300 from Polaris, and it cost me $75 to have the drivers pressed on to far. I will sell the whole set up for $225, so you cant go wrong either way.
1. I cut off every other mini nub with a very sharp knife (takes about 30 minutes)
2. I was running un modified Avid 7-tooth drivers, but then switched to Fastrax Hex shaft with 8-tooth Wahl drivers.
3. I am running a SLP anti stab kit.
4. I had to grind off some material from the back of my rails so that that track wouldnt hit the rails.
5. I ran a pre-stretched track, and would suggest the same if you run 8-tooth drivers, as there is very little adjustment at the real idlers.
6. I have about the same amount of clearance in the tunnel as I did with the stock track, and even though a drop and roll my be benificial it is not mandatory.
7. The power claw track is AWESOME!!!! When compared to the 5.1 track.
On another note, I do have 7-tooth 3.0 pitch avids and the stock shaft with bearing installed for sale. The driver that is on the pto side is pressed on to far and is distorted, I believe that if you reset the driver to where its suppose to be, all will be fine. I ran it like this for 50 miles and the track didnt run true, but I know it can be fixed. The drivers cost $260, the shaft cost almost $300 from Polaris, and it cost me $75 to have the drivers pressed on to far. I will sell the whole set up for $225, so you cant go wrong either way.
I'm just not very keen on the drivers only having one row of involute nubs to drive off of for each driver...and I certainly don't like the teeth driving on the windows most of the time... the outer guide nubs don't work as involute nubs because of their size....
Dub had problems with his drivers "walking" on the shaft when he used standard Avids with the powerclaw and trimmed every other small outer guide-nub....All the power was being trasmitted thru one side of the driver until it slipped enough for the extro-tooth portion of the driver to catch the window.
Robbie has the new drivers out for the Power Claw Track in the Polaris with the tubular/splined drive-shaft.... in both 8 tooth and 7 tooth configuration.
Also, after seeing 3 sleds running the 8 tooth 3" pitch standard (involute only) PPD drivers on this track (from Wahl/Carls/SLP)... and measuring the clearance accurately... which was between 1/4" and 5/16" (not much)...
I Highly recommend doing a D&R on this sled to get the necessary clearance for efficient operation if you are using the 8 tooth drivers. The lower efficiency is less evident in low moisture "fluff" powder than in high moisture content snow.
A HRP 5/8" D&R with the 8 tooth drivers gives about he same clearance as using the 7 tooth drivers without the D&R... but would turn with more efficiency than the 7 tooth setup.
Here are the new style Avid 7 tooth drivers with the Power Claw HCR track...
This type of Avid driver will be "the ticket" to use with ANY 3" pitch track in the Polaris IQ/PRO RMK, IMO....weather you choose the 7 or 8 tooth versions.Since the front drivers dont have to roll over the clips on the track.... but rather they roll just like an involute driver between the 4 involute rows inside of the rails no more plastic rolling on metal clips... NICE!!
Brad Story, from what I hear, is using the 8 tooth versions of this driver that Robbie and I developed.,
Dub had problems with his drivers "walking" on the shaft when he used standard Avids with the powerclaw and trimmed every other small outer guide-nub....All the power was being trasmitted thru one side of the driver until it slipped enough for the extro-tooth portion of the driver to catch the window.
Robbie has the new drivers out for the Power Claw Track in the Polaris with the tubular/splined drive-shaft.... in both 8 tooth and 7 tooth configuration.
Also, after seeing 3 sleds running the 8 tooth 3" pitch standard (involute only) PPD drivers on this track (from Wahl/Carls/SLP)... and measuring the clearance accurately... which was between 1/4" and 5/16" (not much)...
I Highly recommend doing a D&R on this sled to get the necessary clearance for efficient operation if you are using the 8 tooth drivers. The lower efficiency is less evident in low moisture "fluff" powder than in high moisture content snow.
A HRP 5/8" D&R with the 8 tooth drivers gives about he same clearance as using the 7 tooth drivers without the D&R... but would turn with more efficiency than the 7 tooth setup.
Here are the new style Avid 7 tooth drivers with the Power Claw HCR track...
This type of Avid driver will be "the ticket" to use with ANY 3" pitch track in the Polaris IQ/PRO RMK, IMO....weather you choose the 7 or 8 tooth versions.Since the front drivers dont have to roll over the clips on the track.... but rather they roll just like an involute driver between the 4 involute rows inside of the rails no more plastic rolling on metal clips... NICE!!
Brad Story, from what I hear, is using the 8 tooth versions of this driver that Robbie and I developed.,
A
akrevrider
Well-known member
PC & Avid drivers on a IQ
I have a set of these Avid 8 tooth drivers installed and running a PC track on my IQ. Put about 470 miles on them this season with zero issues.
Appreciate all of your's and Robbie's help in the research and design of the drivers for the IQ. It has about 1/2 an inch clearance between the track & tunnel.
My set of drivers are an experimential set but I would highly recommend them to anybody considering a PC on their IQ.
Great thread
akrevrider
I have a set of these Avid 8 tooth drivers installed and running a PC track on my IQ. Put about 470 miles on them this season with zero issues.
Appreciate all of your's and Robbie's help in the research and design of the drivers for the IQ. It has about 1/2 an inch clearance between the track & tunnel.
My set of drivers are an experimential set but I would highly recommend them to anybody considering a PC on their IQ.
Great thread
akrevrider
Jim,
Good to hear your sled is back together...It was a bit of a hustle to get the rails powder-coated and out to you so quick... Watch out for those obstacles!!
Glad that you were able to get those drivers in your sled... not really experimental any more though...Brad Story has them in some of his 800 Turbo builds ... and Avid has them on their website now.
I got the protos.... 7 tooth... you got the first 8 tooth off the line.
Post up some pix my friend.
I cant remember if you did the D&R or not?
I measured the clearance on my sled and tried a the 8 tooth drivers/PC (the PPD involute drivers...but the diameter is the same) ...The clearance was actually LESS than the stock Dragon 2.4" lug track has, even though the PC is a 2.25" lug track... About 1/4" with the 8 tooth and PC.... too tight for my liking..so that is when I worked with Robbie to make the drivers shown above...
The best thing about these drivers is that they turn more smoothly on the track than the standard Avid Extros do... 99% of the time only the track and involute rubber nubs touching the drivers. the teeth only touch the clips when the track starts to ratchet... some people just cut off every other one of the tiny guide-nubs on the track on the outside of the rails or cut the outside involute teeth off the driver itself... this has the track driving off of the extro tooth most of the time and does not turn as smoothly.... compared to the drivers shown in my post above that only touch the clips when the track starts to ratchet.
Also, with these new drivers... the drivers are not rotating on the clips...plastic to metal... with these they are plastic to rubber... just like the Arctic Cat M's and the Factory installed combo drivers on all the 2008+ IQ Race sleds. Much easier on the drivers when you have rubber on plastic! (This is why the factory M drivers turn more smoothly in the track.)
When running the previous style Avid Combo (or the Wahl "no-slip") drivers on any track... more vibration is felt compared to this new style... in my experience... especially magnified when the track is clipped every other window.
There is one more benefit to these drivers that I did not think about when first thinking about them...since this new design combo driver is not riding up on the clip....approx 1/8" higher than the belting of the track... the involute teeth can seat more deeply into the involute nubs and have even less of a chance to slip... the extro teeth will be in contact less... further reducing any vibration from the driveline.
IMO, if you are going to install Combo drivers... get this new style..they will turn more smoothly.
The trick now is to see if Robbie will start to offer this style driver in an 8 tooth 2.86" pitch so that these new pitch tracks can benefit from the smoother operation and more involute engagement.
Good to hear your sled is back together...It was a bit of a hustle to get the rails powder-coated and out to you so quick... Watch out for those obstacles!!
Glad that you were able to get those drivers in your sled... not really experimental any more though...Brad Story has them in some of his 800 Turbo builds ... and Avid has them on their website now.
I got the protos.... 7 tooth... you got the first 8 tooth off the line.
Post up some pix my friend.
I cant remember if you did the D&R or not?
I measured the clearance on my sled and tried a the 8 tooth drivers/PC (the PPD involute drivers...but the diameter is the same) ...The clearance was actually LESS than the stock Dragon 2.4" lug track has, even though the PC is a 2.25" lug track... About 1/4" with the 8 tooth and PC.... too tight for my liking..so that is when I worked with Robbie to make the drivers shown above...
The best thing about these drivers is that they turn more smoothly on the track than the standard Avid Extros do... 99% of the time only the track and involute rubber nubs touching the drivers. the teeth only touch the clips when the track starts to ratchet... some people just cut off every other one of the tiny guide-nubs on the track on the outside of the rails or cut the outside involute teeth off the driver itself... this has the track driving off of the extro tooth most of the time and does not turn as smoothly.... compared to the drivers shown in my post above that only touch the clips when the track starts to ratchet.
Also, with these new drivers... the drivers are not rotating on the clips...plastic to metal... with these they are plastic to rubber... just like the Arctic Cat M's and the Factory installed combo drivers on all the 2008+ IQ Race sleds. Much easier on the drivers when you have rubber on plastic! (This is why the factory M drivers turn more smoothly in the track.)
When running the previous style Avid Combo (or the Wahl "no-slip") drivers on any track... more vibration is felt compared to this new style... in my experience... especially magnified when the track is clipped every other window.
There is one more benefit to these drivers that I did not think about when first thinking about them...since this new design combo driver is not riding up on the clip....approx 1/8" higher than the belting of the track... the involute teeth can seat more deeply into the involute nubs and have even less of a chance to slip... the extro teeth will be in contact less... further reducing any vibration from the driveline.
IMO, if you are going to install Combo drivers... get this new style..they will turn more smoothly.
The trick now is to see if Robbie will start to offer this style driver in an 8 tooth 2.86" pitch so that these new pitch tracks can benefit from the smoother operation and more involute engagement.
A
akrevrider
Well-known member
09 IQ w/PC Track & 8 tooth 3" pitch Avid combo drivers
470 miles on the PC track & Avid drivers with no issues really made a huge difference in the sled’s ability to go in the deep powder. I painted the driveshaft to aid in shedding snow and ported the track in a single line everyother lug. The track turns very smooth on this style driver as Mountainhorse points out, pretty much a smooth rotation. I added a cover in the front of the tunnel where the cooler block off plate was located to aid in snow evacuation in the front of the tunnel.
I hit a rock under the snow and bent the tunnel by the footrest, bent the Better Board and bent the rail & front arm. Really appreciated all the help from MountainHorse (Eric) & the Crew at Timbersled (Allen & Bud) for helping get me back on the snow within two weeks from the time I called them.
Got lucky with Eric visiting their shop at the same time & helping a fellow SnoWest member taking the parts to powder coating with his order. Thank you all.
470 miles on the PC track & Avid drivers with no issues really made a huge difference in the sled’s ability to go in the deep powder. I painted the driveshaft to aid in shedding snow and ported the track in a single line everyother lug. The track turns very smooth on this style driver as Mountainhorse points out, pretty much a smooth rotation. I added a cover in the front of the tunnel where the cooler block off plate was located to aid in snow evacuation in the front of the tunnel.
I hit a rock under the snow and bent the tunnel by the footrest, bent the Better Board and bent the rail & front arm. Really appreciated all the help from MountainHorse (Eric) & the Crew at Timbersled (Allen & Bud) for helping get me back on the snow within two weeks from the time I called them.
Got lucky with Eric visiting their shop at the same time & helping a fellow SnoWest member taking the parts to powder coating with his order. Thank you all.
Looks good Jim... I really like the black rails
The Ice age Anti Stab wheel kit looks top notch as well... I just ordered one of these as well as some other goodies from Ice Age.
The new design drivers also give a bit more clearance... not much, about 1/8" of an inch (the thickness of the clip above the rubber) ... since the new drivers don't ride on top of the clips...
Not that the original design is lacking... IMO... this design is better.
I spoke with Robbie on Tuesday, He said he CAN offer these in 8 or 9 tooth, 2.86" pitch for the Polaris splined drive shafts so that those running the new pitch can take advantage of the features of this new design as well.
The Ice age Anti Stab wheel kit looks top notch as well... I just ordered one of these as well as some other goodies from Ice Age.
The new design drivers also give a bit more clearance... not much, about 1/8" of an inch (the thickness of the clip above the rubber) ... since the new drivers don't ride on top of the clips...
Not that the original design is lacking... IMO... this design is better.
I spoke with Robbie on Tuesday, He said he CAN offer these in 8 or 9 tooth, 2.86" pitch for the Polaris splined drive shafts so that those running the new pitch can take advantage of the features of this new design as well.
A
akrevrider
Well-known member
I hit a rock under the snow and bent the tunnel by the footrest, bent the Better Board and bent the rail & front arm. Really appreciated all the help from MountainHorse (Eric) & the Crew at Timbersled (Allen & Bud) for helping get me back on the snow within two weeks from the time I called them. Thank you all.
Got lucky with Eric visiting their shop at the same time & helping a fellow SnoWest member taking the parts to powder coating with his order. Replaced rail, front arm, Better Board and had a sheet metal mechanic help straighten the tunnel.
Plan to add a set of Skinz Air Frame Running Boards this season along with a set of reinforcement plates on each side. May add a Holtz or Fasttrax drop & roll.
akrevrider
I hit a rock under the snow and bent the tunnel by the footrest, bent the Better Board and bent the rail & front arm. Really appreciated all the help from MountainHorse (Eric) & the Crew at Timbersled (Allen & Bud) for helping get me back on the snow within two weeks from the time I called them. Thank you all.
Got lucky with Eric visiting their shop at the same time & helping a fellow SnoWest member taking the parts to powder coating with his order. Replaced rail, front arm, Better Board and had a sheet metal mechanic help straighten the tunnel.
Plan to add a set of Skinz Air Frame Running Boards this season along with a set of reinforcement plates on each side. May add a Holtz or Fasttrax drop & roll.
akrevrider
nice job repairing it jim...I think you need to reinforce it though...
A
akrevrider
Well-known member
Appreciate it Mike. I have a set of tunnel reinforcement plates on order and will install them at the same time as the Skinz Air Frame Boards. Plan to use automotive grade adhesive & aircraft rivets on the plates.
thats what I used on mine when I put the sides on it ..works very good...
On those side plates Use the Lord Adhesives 406 ... the same stuff that is used to bond the new Pro chassis components...
Available thru the poo dealers... But better to check the lord website... I think it is avail online as well thru industrial houses at a better price.
You will need a dual plunger "gun" as well.
Available thru the poo dealers... But better to check the lord website... I think it is avail online as well thru industrial houses at a better price.
You will need a dual plunger "gun" as well.
eric, comparing the lords to 3m 8115 they are pretty much identical on properties, 3m is just much easier to come by(most all napa's, body shops stock it)
The 3M 8115 IS a GREAT product and much easier to get.
I've used it for trailer repairs, boat building and panel mounting in Yacht Construction.
8115 is an epoxy as compared to 406 which is an Acrylic Adhesive
The main feature that I like about the 406 is that it releases with heat (about 420 degrees) easily and has a bit more flexibilty to it if the parts twist or flex.
The 406 is a stronger "Structural" adhesive as compared to the 8115 which is termed by 3m to be a "Panel boding adhesive"
8115 is a super strong adhesive though and it will add strength to the assembly.
I CC'd this here to the Pro Ride section as it applies to this chassis as well.
