Akrev, I bought the 7-tooth drivers, what are you other guys running without a D&R. I kind of wish I would of went with the 8-tooth, but I'm sure this set up will be fine also.
For those of you who are thinking of running the Power Claw track on your PRO-RMK
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
Akrev, I bought the 7-tooth drivers, what are you other guys running without a D&R. I kind of wish I would of went with the 8-tooth, but I'm sure this set up will be fine also.
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akrevrider
Well-known member
I currently have a 7 tooth Avid combo and an anti-stab kit on order. No drop & roll kit this year.
After reading the thread by Mountainhorse have considering going to a 8 tooth set up.
akrevrider
After reading the thread by Mountainhorse have considering going to a 8 tooth set up.
akrevrider
here are a few of the pics I took today, it shows how the introvert part of the driver engages the track, while the extrovert part rides directly in the middle of the window. Which shows that the extrovert will not be driving the track
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akrevrider
Well-known member
I already have my PC and 7 tooth Avids but may go to an 8 tooth Avid or 8 tooth SLP driver.
Will be happy to go out and do a direct comparision on a a ride with you this season.
akrevrider
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akrevrider
Well-known member
"here are a few of the pics I took today, it shows how the introvert part of the driver engages the track, while the extrovert part rides directly in the middle of the window. Which shows that the extrovert will not be driving the track"
Midge,
Are you planning to run an anti-stab kit? When I mocked up the 7 tooth drivers there is contact on the little nubs and I'm thinking it may cause issues.
Are you planning to grind the drivers or nubs on the track to prevent this?
Appreciate the pics.
akrevrider
Midge,
Are you planning to run an anti-stab kit? When I mocked up the 7 tooth drivers there is contact on the little nubs and I'm thinking it may cause issues.
Are you planning to grind the drivers or nubs on the track to prevent this?
Appreciate the pics.
akrevrider
AKrev, I do plan on running a anti stab kit from SLP, its on order already. As for the mini nubs, I will cut off every other one. I chose to go with the 7 tooth driver to make sure that the track would stretch over the stock rails, if anyone is running an 8 tooth set up with the 153 and still have adjustment on the rear idlers please post up, and show pics of the rear idlers.
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akrevrider
Well-known member
Midge... you left out the pic of the outside edge of the driver...
Also, you will notice that the involute part of the driver only drives off of one set of involute nubs on the inside of the rails....
Only 1/2 of the engagement of any other track... 1/2 the amount of involute nubs to keep the track from ratcheting...PLUS this stresses the heck out of the one pair of nubs that is engaging.... stepping down to a 7 tooth would give even less engagement... this is why the extro-teeth portion of the driver will be in contact with the windows more...with less engagement the track will be more likely to start ratcheting and the teeth will need to "catch" the track from slipping at that point.
I've changed my tune on anti stab kits... they dont add much weight as the axle for the anti stabs is the same part that holds the limiter straps.... You also dont need to run the rail caps with Anti stab kits...
You will have to cut the rails shorter on the front to fit the skid in with the Avids (or any other combo driver)
Also, with the Combos on ANY Polaris RMK>....Run STOCK tension specs if you want the track to perform well...especially on the lightweight single ply tracks....The myth that a loose track will turn easier and use less hp is just that... a myth... Loose tracks are more prone to stabbing, the paddles lay down easier, the track balloons out and rubs on the tunnel or decreases clearance, and there is more friction along the hyfax when the sled is in motion with the wieght of the rider and sled on it....Turning it on a stand with the track off the ground is NOT representative of what is happening with a sled on the snow and in motion. This comes from Camoplast as well... they make most of the tracks, including the Power Claw, that we run on our RMKS!..... Jack Struthers, owner of Carls cycles also supports this position.
Just stuff to think about..
Also, you will notice that the involute part of the driver only drives off of one set of involute nubs on the inside of the rails....
Only 1/2 of the engagement of any other track... 1/2 the amount of involute nubs to keep the track from ratcheting...PLUS this stresses the heck out of the one pair of nubs that is engaging.... stepping down to a 7 tooth would give even less engagement... this is why the extro-teeth portion of the driver will be in contact with the windows more...with less engagement the track will be more likely to start ratcheting and the teeth will need to "catch" the track from slipping at that point.
I've changed my tune on anti stab kits... they dont add much weight as the axle for the anti stabs is the same part that holds the limiter straps.... You also dont need to run the rail caps with Anti stab kits...
You will have to cut the rails shorter on the front to fit the skid in with the Avids (or any other combo driver)
Also, with the Combos on ANY Polaris RMK>....Run STOCK tension specs if you want the track to perform well...especially on the lightweight single ply tracks....The myth that a loose track will turn easier and use less hp is just that... a myth... Loose tracks are more prone to stabbing, the paddles lay down easier, the track balloons out and rubs on the tunnel or decreases clearance, and there is more friction along the hyfax when the sled is in motion with the wieght of the rider and sled on it....Turning it on a stand with the track off the ground is NOT representative of what is happening with a sled on the snow and in motion. This comes from Camoplast as well... they make most of the tracks, including the Power Claw, that we run on our RMKS!..... Jack Struthers, owner of Carls cycles also supports this position.
Just stuff to think about..
Once the track starts to ratchet and the teeth are driving the track.. the track nubs ride up on the driver, stretching the track and decreasing clearance further...
P
pura vida
Well-known member
MH
what changed your mind? is this regardless of teeth, 7t v. 8t? does the anti-stab kit have any effect on performance? ie, the anti-stab kit pushes on the track right before it meets the hyfax. does this/could this have any effect? significant or not? thanks
pv
well until I make more power(big bore or turbo)I am going to run stock drivers..never had any problem with them and Curt agreed..besides thats one more thing to wonder how it affected performance(I like to change one thing at a time as much as possible)..might as well use what I have...I figure the biggest gain will be the D&R...helps the angle of attack so much,thats what I noticed most on dougs dragon last year..where stock dragon would have lost all momentum and trenched, you could watch dougs sled keep crawling forward(even on steep deep stuff)it could be the track doing that though since the new cats with the PC we rode with last season couldnt run anywhere with dougs sled(course none of us could)and I know their attack angle is less then the polaris..gonna be an interesting season....
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akrevrider
Well-known member
You have some very good points backed up by first hand experience.. Is Doug's track a 163? The CE has a ton of grip for sure it just keeps digging.
The FTX drop & roll kit is both top quality and a great design. They work..
I went with a 155 for a little better boondocking but sacrificing in the steep & deep. My current plan is to lose weight including rotating mass and improve on the IQ what is lacking IMO: For me it is the rear suspension and 5.1 track; so I chose the Timbersled Mountain Tamer and the Power Claw track.
There are a couple of other mods to make it fun and I really can't wait to see myself the difference when we get a chance to compare them during a ride.
If I still didn't have a bumper to bumper warranty, the FTX D&R would be going on too....
akrevrider
You have some very good points backed up by first hand experience.. Is Doug's track a 163? The CE has a ton of grip for sure it just keeps digging.
The FTX drop & roll kit is both top quality and a great design. They work..
I went with a 155 for a little better boondocking but sacrificing in the steep & deep. My current plan is to lose weight including rotating mass and improve on the IQ what is lacking IMO: For me it is the rear suspension and 5.1 track; so I chose the Timbersled Mountain Tamer and the Power Calw track.
There are a couple of other mods to make it fun and I really can't wait to see myself the difference when we get a chance to compare them during a ride.
If I still didn't have a bumper to bumper warranty, the FTX D&R would be going on too....
akrevrider
yea..dougs is a 163...I did the holz skid solely because they have always worked good..I wanted to go to the alpha-x but it was going to be a few months before they were ready...one of my old sleds I went crazy with the lower recipricating weight thing..really didnt help as much as I thought it would....
I didnt forget to post a picture of the outside rail, I intentionally left it out since I have cut off the mini nubs yet, and we dont need pictures to know that the mini nubs are useless in this application. I meant to look under my buddies m8 to look at its driver configuration, was wondering if there introvert part of there driver makes contact with both of the inside involute nubs. Has anyone found out yet if you can run the 8-tooth 3" pitch drivers w/ the power claw on a 155 sled with the STOCK rails? I still feel wierd about dropping down to the 7-tooth drivers that I have, but am guessing the difference in the circumerence of the 7-tooth 3", and the slightly bigger 8-tooth 2.86 pitch driver wont make to much of a performance difference.
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akrevrider
Well-known member
"153 Powerclaw on a 155 Dragon Cando" Thread by KAWGRN:
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=153321&highlight=153+pc+dragon
Midge,
The thread above has all the discussion and the data to answer most questions on running a 7 tooth vs 8 tooth driver. My plan is to still run a 7 tooth if the mod can be made without damaging the track or drivers in the process.
If you cut your rails with the 7 tooth do you plan to run an anti-stab kit?
akrevrider
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=153321&highlight=153+pc+dragon
Midge,
The thread above has all the discussion and the data to answer most questions on running a 7 tooth vs 8 tooth driver. My plan is to still run a 7 tooth if the mod can be made without damaging the track or drivers in the process.
If you cut your rails with the 7 tooth do you plan to run an anti-stab kit?
akrevrider
akrevrider;1845130If you cut your rails with the 7 tooth do you plan to run an anti-stab kit? akrevrider[/QUOTE said:
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Nelson
Well-known member
Nelson I assume your running the camo x?..how do you like it? and did you do a D&R for it?..I have both coming from Curt(fastrax)....
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Nelson
Well-known member
No, this is just an example of what was done on my 06 900 Dragon w/166.
I'm anxious to know as well. Was considering the Camo Extreme w/avid combos and a D&R kit from Curt for the 800 but weighing in on the PC track now.
I would like to hear from anyone running the Hex driveshaft from Curt and wondering if this might be the way to go?
I'm anxious to know as well. Was considering the Camo Extreme w/avid combos and a D&R kit from Curt for the 800 but weighing in on the PC track now.
I would like to hear from anyone running the Hex driveshaft from Curt and wondering if this might be the way to go?
