delrin washer in secondary

[ak]

Just changed springs on the Carls 660, it has bearing, cup, washer, spring, then roller. No plates on both sides of bearing.

It should have came with one washer

 

[flying frenchman]

Don't forget to check your bushing on the movevable half. I can wobble mine, it was probably shot a year ago but just caught it now when replacing the spring and installing a Delrin washer.

 

[CrazyCooter]

I have the bearing and two metal washers that I was looking to install on a 2016 800 2" SBA. Is a spring change recommended to compensate for the possible degrade in track speed during upshift?

 

[jrk]

I was considering the thrust bearing kit as well, but have some concerns with the increase in spring pressure and decrease in initial starting angle.

The spring poundage increase will be more than a few pounds. If it was a few pounds it would be no big deal, but in some cases, it could be as much as 12-13 lbs..?

For example: 160/260 spring. Spring travels 1.1" as per Team/venom. The thrust bearing/washers equate to 0.140" of thickness. So:

100/1.1= x/0.140
x= 12.72 lbs

So a spring like the black/white 160/260 has the potential of putting out preloads of 173/273.

A red/Black 140/240 would also put out preloads of 153/253.

A 155/222 spring has the potential of gaining 8.5 lbs of preload ~ 163/230

A 160/240 spring has the potential of gaining 10.12 lbs of preload ~ 170/250

While I do believe the bearings will definitely improve efficiency....I think it will cause some inconsistencies with your current clutching recipe.

If I wanted to keep the preload similar to what I had previously (160/260) then I may want to swap out to a 140/240 to stay close to my previous clutching recipe.

AS for the helix starting angle......if you used a 48-44F cut helix and ramp travel is 1.1".....there is a 4* spread.

4/1.1=x/0.140
x= 0.5*

So if you have a starting angle of 48 degrees.....with the shim/bearings in place, the starting angle is now 47.5 degrees. This also will have a small impact on your previous clutching recipe.

If I'm out to lunch here guys, please let me know.....but I don't think I am...?

 

[Teth-Air]

For those who are considering the secondary bearing, this does not noticeably increase engine rpm due to extra preloading the spring more. In actual fact, we notice that the clutch shifts out better due to the lack of friction. We actually use a stiffer spring when we clutch the Pro-Rides and AXYS. The backshift is awesome. You really can notice the difference in friction by rotating the sheaves by hand before adding the bearing and after.

 

[jrk]

Can you provide an example of what clutching components were utlized before and after the kit?

 

[volcano buster]

I was considering the thrust bearing kit as well, but have some concerns with the increase in spring pressure and decrease in initial starting angle.

AS for the helix starting angle......if you used a 48-44F cut helix and ramp travel is 1.1".....there is a 4* spread.

So if you have a starting angle of 48 degrees.....with the shim/bearings in place, the starting angle is now 47.5 degrees. This also will have a small impact on your previous clutching recipe.

If I'm out to lunch here guys, please let me know.....but I don't think I am...?

The bearing does not alter the position of the rollers in the helix since it is positioned on the opposite end of the spring. Therefore the starting angle is not changed. If you shimmed between the spider/roller assembly and the retainer clip you could alter the helix duration for the starting angle.

Maybe I'm wrong, but that's the way I see it.

 

[Teth-Air]

The bearing does not alter the position of the rollers in the helix since it is positioned on the opposite end of the spring. Therefore the starting angle is not changed. If you shimmed between the spider/roller assembly and the retainer clip you could alter the helix duration for the starting angle.

Maybe I'm wrong, but that's the way I see it.

I agree

 

[jrk]

The bearing does not alter the position of the rollers in the helix since it is positioned on the opposite end of the spring. Therefore the starting angle is not changed. If you shimmed between the spider/roller assembly and the retainer clip you could alter the helix duration for the starting angle.

Maybe I'm wrong, but that's the way I see it.

Yes....now that I re-read that statement....that makes sense. Helix angle is unaffected.

 

[Teth-Air]

Can you provide an example of what clutching components were utlized before and after the kit?

All models, track lengths, gearing, altitude etc. are all taken into consideration so no one will answer that with one simple answer.

 

[jrk]

All models, track lengths, gearing, altitude etc. are all taken into consideration so no one will answer that with one simple answer.

You mentioned in a previous post;

".....this does not noticeably increase engine rpm due to extra preloading the spring more. In actual fact, we notice that the clutch shifts out better due to the lack of friction. We actually use a stiffer spring when we clutch the Pro-Rides and AXYS. The backshift is awesome......"

You say you use a stiffer spring but you can't give an example of how much stiffer of a spring you ended up using....certainly you must have a baseline?

 

[aksledjunkie]

Does anyone have a trick to getting the helix bolts out? I have broken a couple bits now, tried warming the aluminum slightly, tapping screw head with a punch. Three of them will not come loose, thanks for any help.

http://www.zollingerracingproducts.com/shop-our-store/8fwtwyhsv25n86teasg4wm09suwl6y


Great product right here and a great company to work with. I've never had an issue with these bolts and the bit you can get with them.