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Converting 2012 Pro chaincase to belt drive

Everyone has an opinion. The chaincase is low enough in the chassis compounded with MUCH of the weight loss coming from the static cover, oil and case itself, that I think the gyro effect is far more marketing hype than actual reality. Now having heavy clutches mounted high like they did in the Doo XP... well there I would agree that gyro affect might come into play. I know one thing for certain... I'm not biting on a new belt drive for my '11!

Have FUN!

G MAN

I'm with you on this one. If they really wanted to cut the rotaional mass, they would have mounted the brake on the lower drive shaft like the doo as it spins half the speed as the top. This would cut the rotational mass in half ( half speed) but possibly the brake would have to be larger and heavier.
 
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I'm with you on this one. If they really wanted to cut the rotaional mass, they would have mounted the brake on the lower drive shaft like the doo as it spins half the speed as the top. This would cut the rotational mass in half ( half speed) but possibly the brake would have to be larger and heavier.

Your last sentence says it all! Just look at the monster disc and huge caliper on the Arctic cat DD sleds and the crazy mountain extream caliper. Not they couldn't make them all lighter but the lawyers and warranty people tend to lean towards zero liability and cheap to maximize profits. Roughly half the speed depending on gear ratio requires twice the force ( clamp load) thus either larger diameter to get the same force, or heavier. Since there really isn't room to increase the diameter and doing so would negate any benefit of the relocation. If you crunch the numbers is really isn't beneficial to put it on the driveshaft other than having brakes if the chain belt brakes which really isn't common enough to worry about.
 
im running the c3 kit on my 2012 assault switchback. very impressed with it and it only took about 15 minutes to put in. just like described before... my thumb feels much more connected to the track. i am goin to turbo this sld this winter so i opted to get the c3 kit over the polaris setup so i would have gearing options and a belt tentsioner. i talked to a couple ppl at haydays who said that just like burandt they had the belt jump and then that would cause belt cogs to pop off. hopefully with the tensioner i can avoid that!
 
I'm sincerely curious...
How did they qualify that the belt jumped?

What is it that made them believe that the belt jumped rather than failed from too much torque being applied to the few teeth that engage the belt on the upper sprocket (about 9 teeth from what I can tell)?

I believe that the belts that did fail in these extreme situations are not jumping due to lack of tension... but rather stripping teeth from extreme use.

I've had a lot of hands on design and application experience with cogged belt drives and need for high tension levels does not seem to plague this type of system.

The two bad situations are angular misalignment of the sprockets and spikes in load distributed across too few of teeth.

This being said... I BELIEVE THAT THE STOCK Belt-Drive on the 2013 WILL BE ULTRA RELIABLE FOR THE 99.5% OF THE OWNERS. The other 0.5% who are extreme riders could see the type of failure that Burandt saw.

I'd like to see Ice Age Performance or C3work withSuperMax and incorporate their design in a urethane top sprocket that would help in both of these areas. Plus they are much, much more wear resistant.

These sukkas have been tested in some pretty demanding situations.

They help to minimize shock to the belt teeth and tolerate the misalignment that will occur in heavy mountain use as the chassis is flexed (like when burandt is doing full power maneuvers through the trees and is twisting the heck out of the chassis!!)

When the two rigid pulleys are no longer in the same plane from twisting of the chassis (big power, and lots of body english over a long lever [tunnel])The result is a shearing or tearing action of the teeth on the belt from side to side... A pulley with more give helps to minimize this situation.... even more so if the lower sprocket has urethane teeth/drive-surface.

Although it does not seem like it it would be possible to get the top and bottom sprockets/shafts out of plane/alignment from twisting... Just picture 150hp+ on a long track that is hooking up well through the trees as full throttle and lots of weight on the rear of the running boards as the rider trys to keep it upright and going in the right direction... serious force. This along with the previous fatigue from power-on landings and other extreme maneuvers that Phatty, Adams, Sessions, Yribar and others are putting these sleds through.





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He He... Ah.... the old days!!! :face-icon-small-win

Fixed it for ya bud.. your the only one that caught that!
 
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