Converting 2012 Pro chaincase to belt drive

[ditch1000]

Has anyone looked at what parts are needed to convert a 2011 or 2012 Pro to the belt drive??? The local dealer said polaris is not offering a retrofit kit, but someone must have looked into just buying the individual parts and just converting it!!! Any thoughts out there????

 

[AndrettiDog]

Search the Pro 4m, there is a lengthy discussion on what people are doing to convert '11 and '12 Pro's to the belt drive.

 

[displacement4me]

Have you looked into C3 Powersports out of Sicamous?

Currently $875 with your choice of ratio, or Avid case. I pick one up next week !

C3 RMK Pro SyncroDrive

 

[Steelman]

Has anyone looked at what parts are needed to convert a 2011 or 2012 Pro to the belt drive??? The local dealer said polaris is not offering a retrofit kit, but someone must have looked into just buying the individual parts and just converting it!!! Any thoughts out there????

Here you go:

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=307254

 

[backcountryislife]

Here you go:

http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=307254

The only belt drive talked about in that thread is the C3 unit, which is $900.

He's asking about the parts to convert the 11/12 into a 13, which is what I'd be looking for if I had an 11 or 12. There's no way the parts would cost $900 to convert it.

The C3 is nice, but it's pricey, I'd bet with stock stuff you're looking at 300-500 MAX & you're then running stock parts so replacement is cheaper & easier.

That thread seems like it started talking about this, but someone must have looked at a 13 & figured out which parts would need to change by now?

 

[assault11]

I heard it would be 800-900$ for the Polaris belt drive? OEM parts aren't cheap

 

[CO 2.0]

I honestly expected the C3 belt drive to roll the track over by hand a lot easier, but there is still a lot of tension there. Guessing the tight track tension the Poo's run doesn't help. I'm running 1/2" deflection on the belt drive tension. My longer tracked M8 rolls over easier with its BDX DD lite and much looser track tension. The C3 belt drive is definitely an improvement over the chaincase though when I ran it on the mountain this May. Less rotating mass is probably the biggest difference I see so far...

 

[Oregonsledder]

My understanding is that you not only have to buy the pulley's and belt, but also a different jack shaft. Probably some bearing as well.

 

[NapaMatt]

IDK Why People are doing the Belt drive the the 12' and 11's....

Sounds like such a WASTE!

Then once you do this, then you will want a different gear ratio, there goes another 500$ in Pulleys!

Sounds like the fire is lit.. ur just adding fuel!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Leaf27]

Hyvo gears and chain in the 11 and 12 work for me.

 

[CO 2.0]

IDK Why People are doing the Belt drive the the 12' and 11's....

Sounds like such a WASTE!

Then once you do this, then you will want a different gear ratio, there goes another 500$ in Pulleys!

Sounds like the fire is lit.. ur just adding fuel!!!!!!!!!!

For me, I will take a MUCH bigger hit trying to sell the low mileage '12 I bought in Feb to upgrade to a '13 ($2000-$3000). Once I'm done with the '12, I'll take the C3 belt drive off and sell it for $500. Only a $400 hit for a couple years worth of riding. Seems like a worth wild mod to me if it puts more power to the ground. Didn't want to get more power to the ground with any engine mods and lose my warranty when it blows.

 

[backcountryislife]

My understanding is that you not only have to buy the pulley's and belt, but also a different jack shaft. Probably some bearing as well.

Is there a 2013 parts fiche we can go to for comparison?

Even if you had to do a jack shaft, buying parts from Michelle, I can't imagine how you could get up to $900 with stock parts.

As for changing gearing... Personally I like the pro gearing.

Maybe the stock pulleys are $200 each & I'm way off, but I have yet to hear anyone say they honestly have a real idea what the parts cost. I'd like to know, I think there'll be some 12's for sale & that's an easy way to update them, maybe?

 

[Oregonsledder]

Is there a 2013 parts fiche we can go to for comparison?

Even if you had to do a jack shaft, buying parts from Michelle, I can't imagine how you could get up to $900 with stock parts.

As for changing gearing... Personally I like the pro gearing.

Maybe the stock pulleys are $200 each & I'm way off, but I have yet to hear anyone say they honestly have a real idea what the parts cost. I'd like to know, I think there'll be some 12's for sale & that's an easy way to update them, maybe?

I havn't seen the 13 parts fiche yet, but even through Michelle, it could get spendy. I'm interested in making the conversion myslef, but I will wait to see a good parts list and then do some costing to see if it's worth it. I will be riding with two guys with 13's this coming season, so I bet I get a chance to compare the power transfer and see if I can detect much of a difference.

 

[xmk1080]

Jackshaft, two belts, two pulley's, belt drive fixture(case), bearings, brake rotor and hardware are the idems that you know you need. I also believe that the driveshaft has been updated and brake caliper is in a different location, so who knows if they will work. My guess is $900 to $1100 for the parts that you know you need and closer $1500 if you have to buy it all. Its a lot to spend for something thats not proven to hold up yet, but it sure looks cool. If the belt is stronger why does the Assault have a chaincase yet?

 

[Matte Murder]

Agree with CO 2.0. Other plus is the tensioner. No telling if the whole belt system on the 13 will wear and cause a loose belt over time. I like the ability to change gearing. Changed gears on my sled last year(well winterbrew did) and it made a very noticeable diff. Pro likes to rev, I wanted to try lower gearing this year and it won't happen since I have a 13. Dan Adams told me the belt drive made the track and engine and thumb seem much more connected. Both on the power and coming off it.

 

[Oregonsledder]

Agree with CO 2.0. Other plus is the tensioner. No telling if the whole belt system on the 13 will wear and cause a loose belt over time. I like the ability to change gearing. Changed gears on my sled last year(well winterbrew did) and it made a very noticeable diff. Pro likes to rev, I wanted to try lower gearing this year and it won't happen since I have a 13. Dan Adams told me the belt drive made the track and engine and thumb seem much more connected. Both on the power and coming off it.

You always get a more direct transfer of power with a belt.

 

[xmk1080]

Agree with CO 2.0. Other plus is the tensioner. No telling if the whole belt system on the 13 will wear and cause a loose belt over time. I like the ability to change gearing. Changed gears on my sled last year(well winterbrew did) and it made a very noticeable diff. Pro likes to rev, I wanted to try lower gearing this year and it won't happen since I have a 13. Dan Adams told me the belt drive made the track and engine and thumb seem much more connected. Both on the power and coming off it.

Go with 7 tooth 3 pitch drivers and that new camoplast track #9175, that will gear it down. Its what I was going to do but i decided to keep my '11 instead. I think that would be a really nice setup with good track clearance and lower gearing.

 

[Matte Murder]

That's gonna cost more than I prolly want to spend. On the Doo the gears werent even $100. I like the stock track too but I've never tried an aftermarket track either.

 

[druchti]

If the belt is stronger why does the Assault have a chaincase yet?

I agree I'm givin it a while to see how they hold up.. I watched burandt blow a few cogs off one last year hitting pillows in a creek bed..he said they where testing diffrent compounds at the time and should have it squared away by the time there to the dealers..we where smashin the faces pretty hard but im still skeptical about how they are ganna hold up. if i had a 13 coming id most def get a spare belt for it and keep it in my pack

 

[ditch1000]

The only belt drive talked about in that thread is the C3 unit, which is $900.

He's asking about the parts to convert the 11/12 into a 13, which is what I'd be looking for if I had an 11 or 12. There's no way the parts would cost $900 to convert it.

The C3 is nice, but it's pricey, I'd bet with stock stuff you're looking at 300-500 MAX & you're then running stock parts so replacement is cheaper & easier.

That thread seems like it started talking about this, but someone must have looked at a 13 & figured out which parts would need to change by now?

This is correct!! I also would rather the OEM so I don't have to run the tensioner. Parts will be easier to get at the local dealer also!!