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Chris Burandt Clutch Kit for new Matryx 850 including helix, thoughts?

R

rocdog

Free Member
Bought many things from Burandt over the years. Always been helpful with knowledgeable solutions.

I bought his newest Maytrx 850 clutch kit that included:
Primary Spring (no secondary)
Helix (cut to his specs)
Roller Bearing
SLP Magnum Force Weights (adjustable from 60 to 69g)
SLP Secondary Rollers

I sent this with my stock clutches off to Patrick's Customs to get lightened and balanced. He installed the kit before preforming the work. I have 67g of weights in clutch weights now.

I didn't put 1 mile on the 22 Matryx Kaos 165 Slash before doing this. So I have no stock clutching reference to compare to.

I have 75mi on the sled and it still is only half way through break in mode. I ride at 5500 to 9000 elevation with most riding in the 7800 to 8400 range.

I just recently got the TRS tool and adjusted to TRS spec with the lightened (shaved) clutches from Patricks work. Will ride today for first time after doing TRS adjustment.

Wanted to provide all this info before asking this question.

What is the boards thoughts, recommendations, or experience with the Burandt Clutch Kit? I have no idea what the Primary spring weight is (his spec). I have no idea what the ramp or cut is on the Helix (his spec). All I know is Burandt does a lot with these sleds so I want to trust I am buying a product that makes the clutching better.

I don't have a solid opinion yet of the sled and clutching as it is still in break in mode and I have only ridden it in fresh deeper snow conditions. Today will be my first ride in harder packed snow.
 
Personal opinion. If guys are hiding there helix angles and painting springs then they don't deserve the money for them. If the kit shows up with normally colored venom springs and marked helix then thats fair, i dont expect them to advertise them online.

Id be willing to bet its pretty much the same kit as Kurts, Carls, and now Chris getting a helix made, there's really no money in reselling a clutch kit and he does volume to justify getting venom to do runs of helix's. adjustable 10 series style weight, slightly higher engagement primary spring and a steeper multi angle helix. ( see 64-44 / 62-42)

IMO if your willing to actually take care of your clutching and set it up for proper elevation TRS is the best in the game, if your someone who wants something super forgiving that you dont really ever change weights with large elevation change ( see riding areas) then an OEM style 10 series weight based clutching may make more sense for you.

And honestly proper weight for your elevation, good alignment, proper belt to sheave and clean sheaves will probably gain you more results then a clutch kit.
 
That is what I am wondering. I remove, clean and inspect my clutches every other ride. I been wanting to try these SLP Magnum Force clutch weights for sometime now. Because I like the fact that giving any elevation and or snow condition I can make easy quick changes on the hill. I know some people rave about these weights and some (like Carls) are not a fan. Time will tell on what I think.

And I actually just learned of TRS and Tony's tool this season from this board. I just did the adjustments this morning using it and am excited to check out the results today. Seeing that I had Patricks Customs lighten and balance my clutches, when back spacing the secondary I had to add an additional .075 thousandth gap to the front side of secondary. To make up for the .075 TJ at Patricks machines off of the front side of the secondary when lightening it up.
 
I'm going to weigh in since I am the forum expert and all. I think clutching is way over rated. 97% of the people I have seen ride or have ridden with are not going to benefit from a clutch kit. It blows me away the people that obsess about it. I'm going to take a couple more whacks at the dead horse but stock sleds are set up pretty darn well. I think sleds have plateau'd like the street bike market. You don't need any mods if you are buying a street bike unless you race semi professionally. If what you are doing does not put you ahead of someone who has more skill than you really don't need it. Spend your money elsewhere. I have had the most opposite of the spectrum possible (probably more than anyone on this forum) when Chris and I went back and forth last year from his light weight sled to a completely bone stock rental sled. It didn't want me to have him build me a sled and money is generally not taken in consideration when it comes to sled decisions for me. If you don't have top of the line suspension you shouldn't even be wasting your time on clutching.
 
This is why I posted. I am trying to get opinions and factual input from others wiser than I in sled clutching. I won't lie, i do like to upgrade and make my equipment better. But I am not interested in adding aftermarket parts that don't provide an mechanical improvement and enhance performance.

Again, trying to see if any people on this board have used the Burandt kit on a Matryx and have any input to share?
 
Clutching is over rated!

There you go folks. One of your forum experts has spoken and given you He/His/They/Them’s professional opinion. And you can take that to the bank.
Stock clutching calibration for the masses with its horrible performance and belt life and clutch alignment that is almost always 0.120-0.140” out of factory spec is okay for 97% of you.

Lag ridden, Danforth boat anchors don’t need anything because clutching has no effect on properly loading a high performance 2 stroke engine.

I guess we can now remove one of the “C’s” from TeamTCCSAxys.
 
I have indyDan balance my clutches when new and always run a decent belt and factory clutching. I usually buy EPI belly Buster weights for the elevation I run the most and then for my elevation when out west. Once thing nice about riding deep U.P. of Michigan snow is we are at sea level so no performance loss. I really notice the power loss out west because we are typically at 10,000 plus feet. Usaully have to take around 10 grams out. I have drag raced my buddies sled which are indentical to mine but they have clutch kits and I always win. So it can't be too bad.
 
I agree with the last part of Wheelhouses post, AND Chadly here. Simply putting the proper weights in would be good start for many ? Factory clutching works great when setup properly(yes some of you gurus and tuner will disagree with that). I have ridden with people who won’t change weights from 6k to 11k and then talk about buying performance goodies. Don’t be that guy, lol- not directed at you rocdog, just to other readers. On a side note the 850 is very forgiving when it comes to clutching and will make good power from like 7700-8400 rpm (or something like that, I don’t remember) vs the 800 which really started to fall off under like 8100.

Over the years, I’ve run Indy Specialties, Carls, TRS, and a “homebrew” kit to make the SPI pipe on my 850 work. All worked well. All felt a little different. Indy Specialties and TRS ran the coolest (they are similar). The other two ran warmer but no issues. TRS did end up being my favorite of the bunch… I read a post a few weeks back, and a guy said it felt, zippy or zingy or something like that- saying it was running alot of rpm at low speeds on the trail. I’d agree. Its way different that the stock clutching, and seemed weird at first, but once you get to elevation and in deeper snow it flat works, pulls really hard.

Seems like if you can pull and maintain RPM your clutching is doing what it needs to do. I bet the Burandt clutching will work great. His sleds sure sound good and look like they rip. Let us know how it goes.
 
I am still in break in mode on my sled so giving any real input may be a few weeks out. It is still in that adding 15% more oil programming and I can feel how much it is gurgling on oil (running fat). Especially down low.

Surprised there are not others on here running the same Burandt setup that can commit on their experience with the kit. I can't be the only sucker that drank the coolaid!

1 thing I am taking from most everyones comments on here is, next season when I put a new springs in the primary and secondary to freshen it up, I will go back to my stock setup and see how it compares. I will always tune with the TRS tool as that seems to be the number 1 thing most agree on.
 
I have run Burandts set up for a few hundred miles and then TRS clutching on my 2016 Axys Boondocker sidekick turbo and I can say Tony's clutching worked better. It seemed to get to rpm quicker and run cooler. I had 4000+ miles on that sled and only ran 2 maybe 3 belts total with tony's clutching. I just changed them for piece of mind and never blew a belt. Tony's stuff just flat out works.
 
I’ll have to agree with if your hiding your spring and helix specs from customers I would never buy that set up. For all you know it’s recycled stock parts and your butt dyno is going to say it’s better because you spent money. I see guys every year that buy these “unknown” name brand kits and don’t have a clue where the rpm’s are supposed to run, usually they are 300-400 rpm off and don’t even know, but they think they are better because “name brand” sold it. I guarantee you if I took 2 100% stock sleds a put high price brand name kit in one sled and the other sled changed only the weights to run correct rpm for altitude and then let 20 guys ride each sled and guess which one had the high dollar clutch kit the result would be 50/50 guessing at which is which.

That being said. the TRS kit is quite different from any kit on the market in regards to lower helix angles and lower spring pressures creating less slipping, better belt grip and lower clutch/belt temps. It works better than anything else I’ve used on an axys 800 and 850, and I’ve tried just about everything.

Before any clutch kit goes in, the least you should do is know how to and adjust the alignment and deflection to spec. It’s most important to proper clutching performance and belt life.
 
rocdog said:
Bought many things from Burandt over the years. Always been helpful with knowledgeable solutions.

I bought his newest Maytrx 850 clutch kit that included:
Primary Spring (no secondary)
Helix (cut to his specs)
Roller Bearing
SLP Magnum Force Weights (adjustable from 60 to 69g)
SLP Secondary Rollers

I sent this with my stock clutches off to Patrick's Customs to get lightened and balanced. He installed the kit before preforming the work. I have 67g of weights in clutch weights now.

I didn't put 1 mile on the 22 Matryx Kaos 165 Slash before doing this. So I have no stock clutching reference to compare to.

I have 75mi on the sled and it still is only half way through break in mode. I ride at 5500 to 9000 elevation with most riding in the 7800 to 8400 range.

I just recently got the TRS tool and adjusted to TRS spec with the lightened (shaved) clutches from Patricks work. Will ride today for first time after doing TRS adjustment.

Wanted to provide all this info before asking this question.

What is the boards thoughts, recommendations, or experience with the Burandt Clutch Kit? I have no idea what the Primary spring weight is (his spec). I have no idea what the ramp or cut is on the Helix (his spec). All I know is Burandt does a lot with these sleds so I want to trust I am buying a product that makes the clutching better.

I don't have a solid opinion yet of the sled and clutching as it is still in break in mode and I have only ridden it in fresh deeper snow conditions. Today will be my first ride in harder packed snow.
Click to expand...
Be done with Chris's back Door adventures. TRS is the only Stop for clutching...
 
I just installed a Burandt clutch kit on a friends sled for him. The springs are standard color SLP springs in SLP packaging with specs, a custom Venom helix also marked, SLP Magnum Force Weights, and a roller bearing with thrust washer. It hasn’t been on snow with the new clutching yet so I can’t comment on how it performs. But none of the specs are hidden.
 
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