Carl's cycle 900

[hudini]

I feel frustrated just reading some of the posts b/c I have been in your shoes. I will speculate that you will see a SLP pipe specifically for the Carls 900 motor and SLP will offer it as a Pro Big Bore pipe. Do you recall the 2 or 3different SLP single pipes for the old 800 "big block"?

Anyway, I hope those of you who are having problems find solutions quickly!!!

 

[TIM]

my stock 2011 never held rpm's. my stock 2012 never held rpm's. my 2012 with slp stage 3 setup does not hold rpms. I don't know why, but when i talk to alot of people. that is the number one complaint. the sled just does not hold rpm's.

I don't know if it is a heat soak issue or not. Love the sled, hate the inconsistent rpm issue.

 

[gunnerthesnowman]

It was good at the start. I was pulling 68s on the steeper helix angle (62/42)

Now that the motor has been broken in ,it could of lost some compression and is running rich on top end , are you running a A/F gauge ?

 

[assault11]

Now that the motor has been broken in ,it could of lost some compression and is running rich on top end , are you running a A/F gauge ?

No. No guages

 

[geo]

my stock 2011 never held rpm's. my stock 2012 never held rpm's. my 2012 with slp stage 3 setup does not hold rpms. I don't know why, but when i talk to alot of people. that is the number one complaint. the sled just does not hold rpm's.

I don't know if it is a heat soak issue or not. Love the sled, hate the inconsistent rpm issue.

My slightly modified '13 (SLP pipe and head) is the same too. And I noticed it while still stock but it ran about 5 or 10 secs longer to each point

10 secs good , 15secs starting to notice it, 20 secs and it holds steady for power, just less.

The thing that is consistant here for me is the coolant temps at these points. 125 all good, 129 starting to fall off, 131 to 133 steady temps just less power.

It's not the tunnel cooling system either cause it happens with waist deep and just 6" fresh the same. And,, as soon as you turn out or shut off within a sec or two the temps fall to 123 125 as quick as you can get your eyes back on it.
It seems to me that either the sensor location or the engines internal coolant flow (MO) is lacking some what or something.

Obviously the less power you are making or asking from the engine through clutching the less loss you would notice. I actually lightened up on the load I was asking from the engine with clutching to balance this out.
I just know there is more there.

Anybody else putting this power loss in line with coolant temps?

 

[Kcjepperson]

FEEL SORRY FOR YOU CARLS!

Man pretty soon we are going to be stuck with stock sleds. It's funny how many tuners/experts come out of the wood works when someone is having a problem. I know if we get on here to get help, but getting help is different from getting opinions of people that have no idea what they are talking about. So this will turn into "oh those carls guys can't build a well tuned motor". When 99 percent of the time it's the operator that can't just leave well enough alone.

Are people afraid to call the builder up and ask for help. I am pretty sure there aren't many people that know the motor better than jack and his guys.

Glassman you said, you think your thread helped the aftermarket industry. IMO people like you will destroy it. It will become you want my product you send me your sled I will do all the work and set it up to my spec. If you touch/tweak breath on the sled after I am done with it you have no warranty and I am not under any obligation to help you fix it. And you with have to sign a contract. And if you don't want to sign that's fine you can ride you stock sled.

Guys having the issues on here, I would hope you have the decency to call carls up and ask for there help before this thread runs the reputation of carls 900 motor.

 

[assault11]

FEEL SORRY FOR YOU CARLS!

Man pretty soon we are going to be stuck with stock sleds. It's funny how many tuners/experts come out of the wood works when someone is having a problem. I know if we get on here to get help, but getting help is different from getting opinions of people that have no idea what they are talking about. So this will turn into "oh those carls guys can't build a well tuned motor". When 99 percent of the time it's the operator that can't just leave well enough alone.

Are people afraid to call the builder up and ask for help. I am pretty sure there aren't many people that know the motor better than jack and his guys.

Glassman you said, you think your thread helped the aftermarket industry. IMO people like you will destroy it. It will become you want my product you send me your sled I will do all the work and set it up to my spec. If you touch/tweak breath on the sled after I am done with it you have no warranty and I am not under any obligation to help you fix it. And you with have to sign a contract. And if you don't want to sign that's fine you can ride you stock sled.

Guys having the issues on here, I would hope you have the decency to call carls up and ask for there help before this thread runs the reputation of carls 900 motor.

I said myself that I don't think it's a problem with there kit. I think they make an awesome kit. I think it's something else like exhaust valves or pipe sensor or something. I'm just trying to get some ideas to see what it might be

 

[assault11]

This kit has a lot of seat time on it. It's not like brads kit by any means. And mine worked awesome at first. I just must have some sort of electrical problem or something

 

[assault11]

My slightly modified '13 (SLP pipe and head) is the same too. And I noticed it while still stock but it ran about 5 or 10 secs longer to each point

10 secs good , 15secs starting to notice it, 20 secs and it holds steady for power, just less.

The thing that is consistant here for me is the coolant temps at these points. 125 all good, 129 starting to fall off, 131 to 133 steady temps just less power.

It's not the tunnel cooling system either cause it happens with waist deep and just 6" fresh the same. And,, as soon as you turn out or shut off within a sec or two the temps fall to 123 125 as quick as you can get your eyes back on it.
It seems to me that either the sensor location or the engines internal coolant flow (MO) is lacking some what or something.

Obviously the less power you are making or asking from the engine through clutching the less loss you would notice. I actually lightened up on the load I was asking from the engine with clutching to balance this out.
I just know there is more there.

Anybody else putting this power loss in line with coolant temps?

My temps hardly get over a hundred. Carl's tell you to take out the thermostat

 

[geo]

Oh, good to know. TRS said these things don't like to run well below 100. Hmmm.

 

[tdblakes]

FEEL SORRY FOR YOU CARLS!

Man pretty soon we are going to be stuck with stock sleds. It's funny how many tuners/experts come out of the wood works when someone is having a problem. I know if we get on here to get help, but getting help is different from getting opinions of people that have no idea what they are talking about. So this will turn into "oh those carls guys can't build a well tuned motor". When 99 percent of the time it's the operator that can't just leave well enough alone.

Are people afraid to call the builder up and ask for help. I am pretty sure there aren't many people that know the motor better than jack and his guys.

Glassman you said, you think your thread helped the aftermarket industry. IMO people like you will destroy it. It will become you want my product you send me your sled I will do all the work and set it up to my spec. If you touch/tweak breath on the sled after I am done with it you have no warranty and I am not under any obligation to help you fix it. And you with have to sign a contract. And if you don't want to sign that's fine you can ride you stock sled.

Guys having the issues on here, I would hope you have the decency to call carls up and ask for there help before this thread runs the reputation of carls 900 motor.

give it a rest dude... no one railroaded Carls in this thread... Nobody's brought drama in here besides you... I am no expert mod builder but I like to know real world feedback about any kind of issue and I like when its on a forum and public so I can learn about issues and how to solve them...

 

[Stroker Customs]

Anyone else running Carl's new power commander map they came out with on in the middle of February?

 

[assault11]

Anyone else running Carl's new power commander map they came out with on in the middle of February?

Yes I am. It's better

 

[SHERMAN]

Is everybody running the baffle in the air box with carls mod or taking it out? My 900 lost rpm's on a climb for the first 50-75 miles then stopped, it now holds 8200 all of the time. I only have about 100 miles on it or so but so far i am very happy with the kit. I know it will not run with the turbos on the hill but the power curve of this motor everywhere else is too much fun to ignore. Seat dyno tells me this motor makes about 30 hp over stock and maybe i'm way off but thats my opinion anyhow.

 

[Blown Motor]

I got to ride with Jack himself, Suitcase, Oberti and a couple other 900's this past weekend and they flat out work. I am on my third pro, all of which have not been stock. This year I chose to go boost. With proper clutch alignment, maintenance, and keeping fresh springs in them I have yet to see a sled not hold R's. Yes there are some days in the deepest of deep that I can run 5-10 minutes and then start to notice heat sink, but lets be honest, there is no way around that.

All in all, Jacks 900 is the best big bore setup that I have seen to date. The number one selling feature to me is that not only does Jacks sled run, as it should since he builds the da*n things, but every other one I have seen flat works too. Honestly have yet to see a sled with that BB in it and hear a complaint from the owner.

I WILL have a 900 too next year.

 

[suitcase]

question for the guys that have the Carl's 900 kit. For everyone that is having a fall in RPM's when making long pulls. Are you running the clutching that came with the kit, or have you played around with different springs, helix, weights?

I have rode with 4 different Carl's 900 and they all preform with in inches of each other. Count it 5 if you throw Jacks in there, and there is not 10 cents worth of differance between his and mine.

Like KC stated the best place to get tunning info for your 900 will be Carl's, give them a call. I said it many times, Im just a rider not a mechanic like so many of us that have these motors.

 

[1racer]

I am running the mid february map and it is definately better. My sled maintains 8250 up a hill the only time it drops is when it hits something and instantly back to 8250 just the way it should be. Some things to check on your sled that isn't running properly are the TPS adjustment, coolant temp sensor, and pipe temp sensor. My sled has a 3" 162 track and I have a large rear cooler and sled never sees below 100 degrees even without thermostat. It usually runs between 105 in the snow and 120 on hardpack.
I am running Carl's clutching with their machined and balanced primary the only change is the secondary spring.

 

[snobyrd]

Kc, I'm having the same backshift issues that others are having with a drop in piston head kit, I also run carls clutch kit, I've contacted both carls and my kit builder and the response is, " first iv heard off it" I've got more clutch parts and even a tied than I've ever had when I've run my cat turbos, you talk as everybody on here are a bunch of bumbazzes, I've been riding sleds since 73, I've had a few in my time, I know that going back to the manufacture rep is the first step, but when they deny there's a problem or issue, that's a problem, we buy their stuff taking their word as honest human beings we should be and all we get is denial and were the dumbazzes.
These sleds are not rocket science and anybody with some mechanical ability can work on these, we all know that if the dam thing don't backshift after numerous clutching combos or buying a clutch kit from a proclaimed mod shop that there are issues, and instead of denying there's a problem find a solution and be a rock star.
I put my sled in the shop yesterday complaining about the same issues that others are having, they adjusted my tps and exaust temp circuit, and installed new spark plugs, this problem is appearing to be wide spread and my hat will go of to the guy that can solve this.

FEEL SORRY FOR YOU CARLS!

Man pretty soon we are going to be stuck with stock sleds. It's funny how many tuners/experts come out of the wood works when someone is having a problem. I know if we get on here to get help, but getting help is different from getting opinions of people that have no idea what they are talking about. So this will turn into "oh those carls guys can't build a well tuned motor". When 99 percent of the time it's the operator that can't just leave well enough alone.

Are people afraid to call the builder up and ask for help. I am pretty sure there aren't many people that know the motor better than jack and his guys.

Glassman you said, you think your thread helped the aftermarket industry. IMO people like you will destroy it. It will become you want my product you send me your sled I will do all the work and set it up to my spec. If you touch/tweak breath on the sled after I am done with it you have no warranty and I am not under any obligation to help you fix it. And you with have to sign a contract. And if you don't want to sign that's fine you can ride you stock sled.

Guys having the issues on here, I would hope you have the decency to call carls up and ask for there help before this thread runs the reputation of carls 900 motor.

 

[snobyrd]

Sounds like the same issue as PAR with the slp pipe. Has it always dropped RPM from the start or is this a new thing?

Glass man, this issue appears to be widespread from stock to full mod, there's something electronically goin on I think cause we've all collectively tried the mechanical solutions getting the same results, and this is not just isolated to just the 13s it's some 12s as well, I've been pm ing guys on here for past few months trying different clutching combinations to hold rs, and now its becoming more public widespread problem, so instead of some of u guys bashing each other and judging eacthothers mechanical Ability , let's find the solution. I'm gonna email carls today and refer them to this thread, after he denied a issue yesterday with me on the phone.

After my 13 pro was in the shop yesterday this is the report I got back on mine at 1004 miles these were his notes
217 over temp fault
1477 exaust valve selenoid circuit open
1336 max det correction limit reached mag
1336 max det correction limit reached pto
2336 cyl mag knock level critical
Adjusted tps
Adjusted etc
Replaced spark plugs

 

[assault11]

Carl's makes some top notch products. So let's not turn this into a bash Carl's thread. I don't think the issues have anything to do with them