Carl's cycle 900

[kej]

Sounds like the same issue as PAR with the slp pipe. Has it always dropped RPM from the start or is this a new thing?

I have 2 Pro's, both with RKtek's drop-in kits, same clutching.
One with Slp pipe, when worked hard, it feels like a old 440 sno-x sled that is heat soaked.
RPM falls off, throttle response is slow, feels like next full throttle burst its going to stick. Pistons look perfect, has to be the pipe.
Next ride stock pipe.

 

[azzkicker]

clutching

Why wouldnt you use the clutching Carls Cycle tells you to??
They have so much time on these and they have the mapping to the clutching done and dialed in perfect! These motors do run great, turn key operations just by all the components they suggest and it will run spot on like all there combinations do. I wouldnt buy any other brand when they built these motors they spent over a full season testing, building, changing, testing until it was spot on before releasing it to the public.
If you buy the full kit including clutching I dont care what track you have they have the set up for you.
It makes no sense to me why try to out due what they have spent tons of time figuring out and not just buy something completely done. That is the great thing with Carls cycles stuff

Those are carls helix #s

 

[glassman]

Glassman, I was kind of hoping I could read about Carl's 900. I could give a flying fart about how you got f#@&ed by someone else.

Seriously I don't care.

If you have a motor from Carl's, yes please comment.

Don't pull a thread that you started cuz you reached an "agreement", then start "questioning" another motor.

I too am doing research on the carls kit if that is ok with you. I am not questioning the motor or its runability, just asking questions about the motor in general. As there is only one other big bore that I am familiar with, I think It is fair to compare a few things. Please forgive me for trying to learn.

 

[glassman]

Yes Sir, You are correct. I do appologize to you Glassman. I too await the answer.

NO problem, your not the first guy to slam me for the decision I made, I just hope it pays off. It will only help all of us in the long run IMHO.

Anyways, this is not about me or my issues, just trying to help a fellow big bore brother out. Back to topic....

 

[IQRIDR]

So it was just speculation that they were both getting their jugs from crankshop? Good to know.

All of the companies offering aftermarket single cylinders for the 800 cfi are getting them from Crankshop. But they come as a blank cylinder so the porting, height, etc are different for each builder.

 

[glassman]

I have 2 Pro's, both with RKtek's drop-in kits, same clutching.
One with Slp pipe, when worked hard, it feels like a old 440 sno-x sled that is heat soaked.
RPM falls off, throttle response is slow, feels like next full throttle burst its going to stick. Pistons look perfect, has to be the pipe.
Next ride stock pipe.

Precisely what I was getting at. Just wondering if more power couldn't be found with a custom pipe, or if this is just a freak thing. Just putting it out there.

 

[assault11]

Sounds like the same issue as PAR with the slp pipe. Has it always dropped RPM from the start or is this a new thing?

It was good at the start. I was pulling 68s on the steeper helix angle (62/42)

 

[assault11]

Why wouldnt you use the clutching Carls Cycle tells you to??
They have so much time on these and they have the mapping to the clutching done and dialed in perfect! These motors do run great, turn key operations just by all the components they suggest and it will run spot on like all there combinations do. I wouldnt buy any other brand when they built these motors they spent over a full season testing, building, changing, testing until it was spot on before releasing it to the public.
If you buy the full kit including clutching I dont care what track you have they have the set up for you.
It makes no sense to me why try to out due what they have spent tons of time figuring out and not just buy something completely done. That is the great thing with Carls cycles stuff

I am running exactly what they told me to run and I have talked to Chris's about the issue multiple times

 

[suitcase]

I have 1300 miles on my Carl's 900 big bore, and I can't say enough good things about it. This motor pulls like a frieght train, 8150 all day long!! With proper clutch maintance. The low end of this motor is so responsive and quick, I shake my head everytime I PoP the flipper!!

I switched sleds the other day, back to my 12 with the stage 4 kit on it. Boy what a big differance the extra 100cc makes. No comparison between the two.

 

[suitcase]

If your RPM is falling off, are your clutches up to par? or are they in need of maintance?

The only time I have seen this on mine is when I let my clutches go a few to many miles without taking care of them.

 

[Stroker Customs]

This post seems to be a little off topic. I currently have about 220 miles on my motor running Carl's recommended clutching 62/42 helix 64 gram belly buster. Sled runs good but I wouldn't say it is spot on at this point. Sorry to say that I am having the same trouble of loosing rpm on long pulls. Can defenetly tell it is loosing power about half way up a hill. Works great in the trees and on short pulls, put it on a long pull and it goes about like a bone stock pro. In a drag race I can only pull my wife's stock 13 pro by 2 sled lengths. Hers is a 155 and mine is a 163 so not a true comparison but close. I am happy with the sled just kinda dissapointed to spend that much money for 2 sled lengths. Have always had great success with my other Carl's motors just feel like there is some hidden power. Anyway hopefully we will get it figured out and make this thing rock like it should. Thanks to the aftermarket companies for working on some of these issues as well as some of the factory issues. By no means am I bad mouthing Carl's cause it is a great kit and worth every penny if it runs right, just trying to give real world results so that people don't think everything is peachy.

 

[Stroker Customs]

And yes my clutches are up to par only have 300 miles on the sled. I am wandering if the guys that are having trouble are running higher elevation than the guys that aren't having trouble I ride mostly 9 to 10000 feet sometimes going to 12000.

 

[suitcase]

I ride from 5000 to 8500 in elevation tops..

Im not meaning anyone does not keep up on there clutches, It is just what I have seen with mine. It is something that I need to stay ontop of, or I notice a little fall.

 

[suitcase]

PDP what have you tryed for weight at those elevations?

 

[assault11]

My primary is brand new. Secondary is still good

 

[glassman]

Here is what I think I know from previous experience. Pipes are generally built based on the air volume from the motor they are designed to run with. Basically speaking, if you are trying to pump more air in with your larger displacement, how can a pipe, designed for smaller cc's be efficient? Just saying if the slp pipe was built to perform on an 800 cc motor, why would we assume that it will work as effectively on a 900. It likely will work, yes, but I would guess you are leaving a little on the table. And why was the SLP such a failure on the other big bore and works so well on this one for others. Perhaps it has something to do with the port timing being different, sending different charge waves, at different intervals, I don't know. Just wondering if anyone has ran a pipe, actually designed for the larger volume of air? I can tell you that heat soak was an issue for me with the exact same pipe. Worked great at lower rpms, and for the short pokes, but hold it wide open for a good pull, and it would drop off.
Not the same motor, I know, but might have some relevance. But then again, if it is only a few people who are having this issue, then forget the whole thing and lets look at other possibilities like the clutches, fuel delivery and pipe temp sensors.
This theory is only based on what I think I know, and how I interpret it. I take corrective criticism as good as anyone, so please enlighten me. I just want these things to......not rip, but better.

 

[Stroker Customs]

I have put the 60/40 helix in and absolutely hated it so I went back to the steeper helix. 60/40 helix lost bottom end and felt real zingy not building power. So I started dropping weights down to 60s which is what I was pulling stock and would still drop on long pulls. Starts over taching on trail and in meadows hits 8500. Gonna try pluging off power valves with vacuum caps so they open manually and not by the solenoid maybe that will help. If not I'm gonna take the stock pipe off my wife's sled and try a side by side comparison as they ran the stock pipe on the first kits. If none of that works I thought about throwing an auto tune on maybe it is just to rich on top for the higher elevations I don't know.

 

[Anthony Oberti]

I have rode several 900s and I am blown away each time. The low end throttle response is simply awesome.I can't say enough good things about this set-up. It really rips!

 

[assault11]

I have put the 60/40 helix in and absolutely hated it so I went back to the steeper helix. 60/40 helix lost bottom end and felt real zingy not building power. So I started dropping weights down to 60s which is what I was pulling stock and would still drop on long pulls. Starts over taching on trail and in meadows hits 8500. Gonna try pluging off power valves with vacuum caps so they open manually and not by the solenoid maybe that will help. If not I'm gonna take the stock pipe off my wife's sled and try a side by side comparison as they ran the stock pipe on the first kits. If none of that works I thought about throwing an auto tune on maybe it is just to rich on top for the higher elevations I don't know.

That's how mine is. Let me know what you find

 

[assault11]

I have rode several 900s and I am blown away each time. The low end throttle response is simply awesome.I can't say enough good things about this set-up. It really rips!

So what are we doing wrong?