Break In Procedure???
- Thread starter WITHERS
- Start date
On boost, no wot pulls or steady throttle but still load the motor, the ring seat under compression so the more you load it the better the seat. Up and down on the throttle.
I would break it in without boost. I have been told it is harder for the rings to seat when you have extra pressure trying to blow past them. If you run it on boost I would richen it a bit to be safe.
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Who told you that? rings don't seat all by themselves, the force of compression pushes them out. My 09 HCR has been boosted from day one according to the first owner, and the brownish blow by color that works its way down the side of the piston stops at the ring and is pretty faint, best looking pistons I have seen after 2000 miles.
heat cycle once in the garage..vary the throttle for maybe like 10-15 miles.. then ride it like you stole it.
the best running sleds i have ever seen get BROKEN in.. not babied..
maybe add a tiny bit of extra oil to the tank to be nice to em.
the best running sleds i have ever seen get BROKEN in.. not babied..
maybe add a tiny bit of extra oil to the tank to be nice to em.
like to run the toys with mineral oil for 500km then switch to synthetic...just make sure its warmed up and ride it hard and vary the rpms and load...i always ran my machines like this and they always last a long time and are the fastest in my group...
can run it at full throttle, just only hold it there for a few seconds...let off and hit it again...have fun!!!
can run it at full throttle, just only hold it there for a few seconds...let off and hit it again...have fun!!!
A diesel mechanic. I had a rebuilt motor that I popped the head gasket in on one of my first trips and it started burning oil like crazy. I left my waste gate set at 45psi and he said I probably gave it to much boost to soon. I am all about breaking engines in hard. I ran that engine grossing around 25,000 and up to 45 psi before I had problems. So the load and pessure didn't help it. After close to 100,000 miles it quite burning oil. I sold the engine running fine and still not burning a drop of oil with 260,000 miles.
Also on my propane sled I sqeaked a piston the first hill I hit and was in and out of the boost. I had it running lean, but I had gotten away with running it this lean for 3 or 4 rides when it had a motor that was broken in. I did heat cycle it by the way. I know people break in turbo's with fresh cylinders and boost. I kept the boost after squeking the piston. I actually still didn't have my richer air valve yet either so it was still running lean. I was just alot more carefull. I posted hoping the OP would also be careful. When you posted I thought it sounded like it was no big deal and I didn't want him to have issues. If he happens to be running on the edge like I was the extra friction from break in could push him over. I just thought I would pass on what I had heard about boost and see what others thought. I know it can be done with boost the question is if it is better to do without.
W
wasatchcomm
Well-known member
i installed my kit on my 2010 with no miles on sled, i ran it at 6lbs, the least amount i could, i varied the throttle and ran the extra oil in tank for the first tank.
i took it easy the first couple rides, i did give it wot a couple times each ride, but i wasnt hard on it for first two rides, i have yet to have a problem. 1600 miles later.... just be careful not to go wot for long periods especially first ride, always let the motor warm up good. you will be fine....
i took it easy the first couple rides, i did give it wot a couple times each ride, but i wasnt hard on it for first two rides, i have yet to have a problem. 1600 miles later.... just be careful not to go wot for long periods especially first ride, always let the motor warm up good. you will be fine....
In comparison to your experience he would have to crank it to 16+lbs of boost, which I don't recommend unless being careful, but in the 6-10lbs on a small cylinder no worries, yours don't really compare and a lean failure is always going to happen if lean. and premix the tank or run a little more oil. elevation will play a role to, at 10000ft on 6lbs its prob making stock hp. Break it in the way a mentioned and it will be good to go after 20-30 miles.
M
mynewuseddoo
Well-known member
Yep, runn'er a little rich with extra oil in the tank on lower boost and vary the throttle for the first tank anyway, maybe two, then pour the c0ck too'er!
Curious to know how you are coming up with your numbers for comparison? You said the extra load on the motor helps break them in. So why didn't my rings seat? I didn't damage any parts. Everything looked great inside the motor when the head was off. It just started getting oil past the rings. I am not saying the combustion doesn't load the rings, but do you think for the rest of the cycle the boost pressure is holding the rings tighter to the cylinder? I know my diesel has different rings than my m8 and is running much higher boost. It was just the reason I was told about boost and rings seating.
As far as my motor not comparing it definately does. It had a lean spot that I could get away with while the motor was broken in. I rode it like this for at least 4 rides. I ran over 20psi through it(on accident). I finally detonated the pistons and had to replace them. Then after heat cycling the motor 3 times I took it out. I squeked a piston on the first small hill on the hot side that also had a new cylinder. So the point is there is more heat created on break in.
Also, I reread my first post and I lied when I said I would break it in without boost. Because even after ruining the new piston I kept it boosted, and even decided to break it in before I got my richer valve.
There is no comparison on your diesel, your looking at 3-4times the compression and boost with more rings. There could be other factors you don't know of unless you built the motor yourself, machined and checked every tolerance, then assembled very carefully using the proper techniques and lube. On your sled you said it was lean and then say you hit 20lbs, both a very bad idea, every sled I have ever tore down and rebuilt has had to be tuned different after rebuild, to assume it worked before and should work now gets a lot of people in trouble. Did you check your piston to cylinder clearance, that alone can change the tuning characteristics. Did you take out all the gas and put new in, did you heat cycle it the right way. My bet is you put a re nick cylinder on and the tolerance wasn't right.
I wanted to see the math when you said in comparison the sled would be at 16+ psi. I hope you did the math on the compression because with no boost you aren't even close. I am not trying to compare my diesel engine to a sled. The point was I was told boost could have caused my rings not to seat. If this is true less boost may have allowed them to, but wouldn't that mean the less boost the better? idk? I hit 20+ psi with a lean spot on broken in motor. The point was I got away with a ton until I had to rebuild the motor. So a person should take some precaution with a fresh engine. I only checked the gap on the rings. I have never checked anything else because I have no way to fix any of the other things and I trust that the new parts are within spec. If you know the clearance maybe you should share so the OP can check his. I haven't heard of propane going bad in a couple of weeks, but maybe I need to look into it. My bet is I had a lean spot that had my motor running on the ragged edge and the extra heat from break in put it over the edge. I got a new piston threw it in and haven't had a problem. So if you are right I guess they sent me a smaller piston the second time.
G
Going West
Well-known member
Pin it to win it. A little extra oil in the tank and just ride it like normal. Never had a problem yet.
And boost will not cause your rings to seat, you think a farmer who buys a combine or a tractor drives the thing around to break the motor in. No we sure dont, its straight to the field and wfo at full throttle. Same goes for truckers, those engines work from day one.
And boost will not cause your rings to seat, you think a farmer who buys a combine or a tractor drives the thing around to break the motor in. No we sure dont, its straight to the field and wfo at full throttle. Same goes for truckers, those engines work from day one.
Forgot about the propane thing, you didn't have to replace the cylinder after that? Must have been a mild sieze. It could be something as little as the heat cycles didn't do there job, or maybe the piston was wrong the first time. Wouldn't be the first time its happened, if you measure your coolant you can make sure the heat cycles take, I can't remember the tolerance spec. but after me and several others seized several m1000's we started checking it and all was good after that. All I'm sayin is its fine on boost and I wouldn't think anyone would go out and hammer on a new rebuild at max boost.
It sounds like the head/block wasnt machined flat when your motor was rebuilt! and IMO breaking in a motor is more so about seating rings and bearings/moving parts, poping a head gasket on a new rebuild just sounds like improper install or block/head prep.
as far as your propane sled, if you were say down on power due to a lack of compression before the rebuild, higher/correct compression added with being on the lean side is a recipie for disaster!
for argument, whats the diffrence of breaking in a NA motor at sea level, or breaking a turbo motor in at say 10 lbs of boost @ 10K feet?
I will do 2-3 good heat cycles in my shop, after that I do a couple minutes of riding, check for leaks or anything outta the ordinary, then its 100% go time! I have yet to have this procedure sway me from doing it any other way! I have never had a problem or a poorly running engine from doing this! It used to be bust open the crate, stud up the track and go grass draggin right outta the box!
This procedure works for 8000+hp blown nitro hemi's, I think its good enough for our sled engines!
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How do you guys do your heat cycles.
I was told to let them idle until the coolant light stayed on constant and then shut them off and allow them to cool.
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