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"Big Boy" Torsion Springs on IQ: Inputs??

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I went with two sizes up from stock and put stock ones back on. The bigger ones were so wide that they melted the wheels and would not spin freely. I email Polaris and they did not responed. I got mine over a year ago and they had both springs on sale for 80.00.
 
curt?for you
I'm 6'4" 265 dry no gear......I put on the 405 springs an now the upper wheel is melting from the bottom corner of the spring touching it.........any ideas??


How thick is your wheel? I've had a couple guys now with that issue and am wondering if the Dragons wheel is that much thinner than the RMK or older IQ chassis'? has anyone measured for comparison? I only have Dragons in the shop at the moment including my own which has no issues with the .359 spring we use commonly.

curt
 
Springs?

Are all of the torsion springs measured only by the thickness or size of the spring?

One of the service guys at the local Polaris dealer suggested that the tighter the spring angle is wound means that there is more tension?

I thought I understood that all of the springs were the same except for the thickness of the actual spring bar and that controlled how much tension there is on the spring?

I may have just confused my self? Then the actual spring angle is also different for other applications for a Dragon SP, RMK, Edge, etc?

Just trying to get a clear understanding of how this works? Thanks in advance for any help.
 
big boy springs have an extra winding. FYI...at a quick glance they look bent also. They are not bent but have an angle made into the spring long arm to make up for the extra winding.
 
curt?for you
I'm 6'4" 265 dry no gear......I put on the 405 springs an now the upper wheel is melting from the bottom corner of the spring touching it.........any ideas??

As stated on here many times before...The 405's are not made for the RMK skids, they are for 2 up trail sleds. You need to be running the .375 big boy springs in either the 47 or 77 degree preload angle.
 
As stated on here many times before...The 405's are not made for the RMK skids, they are for 2 up trail sleds. You need to be running the .375 big boy springs in either the 47 or 77 degree preload angle.

So the 2 ups have a wider tunnel which allows a wider wheel placement?(limited by track width anyway) or is the arm narrower in the middle which allows the spring to fit further inboard? I never have used the 405's-and 2 ups are never in this shop to check out!

bbb-use the .375 47 degrees-its a known combo that I know will work and is plenty of spring for your weight.

Curt
 
So the 2 ups have a wider tunnel which allows a wider wheel placement?(limited by track width anyway) or is the arm narrower in the middle which allows the spring to fit further inboard? I never have used the 405's-and 2 ups are never in this shop to check out!

bbb-use the .375 47 degrees-its a known combo that I know will work and is plenty of spring for your weight.

Curt

I don't know anything about the 2-up tunnel or wheel placement, other than my dealer warned me that they would not fit when I ordered my .375/77 springs 3 seasons ago. He also mentioned something about how they would sit in the bracket on the rail and how they may hit the rails during compression. Next year when I give my sled a refresh, I will be running the .375/47 springs. Mountainhorse said that they will act more like a progressive spring for us big guys.
 
I have the edge suspension....with 7041940-067 SPRING-TORS,.405SQ/77°,BLK,LH (Opt)(.405/77) 7041941-067 SPRING-TORS,.405SQ/77°,BLK,RH (Opt)(.405/77) love the ride with the springs....... but I'm gonna lose a wheel soon!! the rubbing happens in the bottom corner of the spring....just barely touches, but the heat melts the plastic! the wheel had 10mm from the bearing and now I have 2mm left and the bearing is about to pop out of the wheel. I ordered the whal bros billit wheels and they come with 20mm standard bearing @&^%^!*^ (6004; 20x42x12) I am ordering some Kart wheel bearings that are 20X42X9 and 3mm thrust washers. The whal bros wheels are a LOT thinner then stock polaris with the 15mm wide 6205 brgs....now if the 9mm bearing is strong enough this should fix the problem!! I will use a spacer to get the proper alignment and keep it from floating into the spring! If it works well I'll post the info for all!
 
I don't know anything about the 2-up tunnel or wheel placement, other than my dealer warned me that they would not fit when I ordered my .375/77 springs 3 seasons ago. He also mentioned something about how they would sit in the bracket on the rail and how they may hit the rails during compression. Next year when I give my sled a refresh, I will be running the .375/47 springs. Mountainhorse said that they will act more like a progressive spring for us big guys.

MH is correct-I've been pushing guys to use the 47 degree springs for a couple years now-glad its finally catching on-it really is a great upgrade for us big boys! Make sure and try our scissor relocation also-you'll be suprised how well that little change works with these springs. We've got great shock valving packages all dialed in also for the IQ/RMK's and Edge chassis'.

Curt
 
I have the edge suspension....with 7041940-067 SPRING-TORS,.405SQ/77°,BLK,LH (Opt)(.405/77) 7041941-067 SPRING-TORS,.405SQ/77°,BLK,RH (Opt)(.405/77) love the ride with the springs....... but I'm gonna lose a wheel soon!! the rubbing happens in the bottom corner of the spring....just barely touches, but the heat melts the plastic! the wheel had 10mm from the bearing and now I have 2mm left and the bearing is about to pop out of the wheel. I ordered the whal bros billit wheels and they come with 20mm standard bearing @&^%^!*^ (6004; 20x42x12) I am ordering some Kart wheel bearings that are 20X42X9 and 3mm thrust washers. The whal bros wheels are a LOT thinner then stock polaris with the 15mm wide 6205 brgs....now if the 9mm bearing is strong enough this should fix the problem!! I will use a spacer to get the proper alignment and keep it from floating into the spring! If it works well I'll post the info for all!


Curious how that will work out for ya-let us know!

curt
 
MH is correct-I've been pushing guys to use the 47 degree springs for a couple years now-glad its finally catching on-it really is a great upgrade for us big boys! Make sure and try our scissor relocation also-you'll be suprised how well that little change works with these springs. We've got great shock valving packages all dialed in also for the IQ/RMK's and Edge chassis'.

Curt

Man, i am sure glad i started this thread...alot of great info and great inputs..

I am going to give the rear scissor re-loaction a shot as well...i dont have alot of info n it, besides...drill 5/8" back farther then the holes now...is that pretty much it?

thanks Curt for all your great insight and help...
 
took the skid out today and while it was out figured I would check my springs.....WTF I have 7041655-067 and 656 springs.....not the springs I originally ordered or thought I had installed.....not sure If I am going to order new springs or try to make em work with the billit wheels......I gotta tell you I loved this spring even if it was not the correct spring.....

Curt

what springs would you recommend for a 2002 edge 136" for a person of my size?? any good place to orded them cheap?
 
I put them on my 121 this year and they are working great, I've yet to bottom out unlike last season I would bottom out of the hole shot on hard pack.
 
Man, i am sure glad i started this thread...alot of great info and great inputs..

I am going to give the rear scissor re-loaction a shot as well...i dont have alot of info n it, besides...drill 5/8" back farther then the holes now...is that pretty much it?

thanks Curt for all your great insight and help...

Lets see a picture..........hope it works fer ya. I'm gonna follow your lead if it does.
BS
 
Lets see a picture..........hope it works fer ya. I'm gonna follow your lead if it does.
BS

here is a pic i got from "RMK2112" he did this on his sled and said it was excellent...i will do it for sure..but i dont have the money right now to get the torsion springs, so i will do this in the summer for sure when i get the springs...

my season will be endeding here in about 6-7 weeks when i get knee surgery so, i dont really wanna spend the little money i have on the springs right now..but if you need more info on it..(but its pretty cut and dry) get ahold of RMK2112...

track.jpg
 
Go Big I did / 2005 900 / 166

Here are the rear spring you want -


2006 600 /800 Touring IQ

7042240-067 LH .405/77 spring
7042241-067 RH .405/77 spring

about 67.00 bucks each
 
I just installed these on my 2005 700 rmk edge model. What I noticed off the bat was that the inner diameter of the spring is larger then the original and that there was one less coil on the spring but puts the spring closer to the drive lugs on the track. No more then the height of the shock mount so that should be fine. This gives you plenty of clearance for the upper idler wheel on the side. Another thing I did was get a piece of 1 1/4" abs pipe and made another sleeve and put it over the original sleeve. This effectively took up the space needed to equal the stock spring clearance.. Whether this will work properly I don't know. These springs are from a 2005 600/800 touring. The long end of the spring was about 1/4" longer then stock springs. Not sure if I need to trim that off or not.

Set on the middle setting the sled pops right back after stepping off and has about 4.5" of sag on the garage floor. Hopefully the bigger diameter of the spring doesn't rub on the track with the ballooning effect at high speeds.
 
Pretty sure I know the answer to this question but...

...i'm going to ask it anyway. I am trying to set up the rear susp. on my 2003 Sport Touring 550 2 up I and am looking for some help. BTW, this sled has over 7,000 miles. Mainly I am wondering what to do with the extreme "sag" the sled has with two ppl on it riding trail. With 2 ppl, lets say average 150 lbs. and two snowboards, maybe one back pack,the snow flap in on the ground. This sled is mainly for hauling two ppl plus gear out to the mtns. to snowboard. It pretty much sticks to the trail as it's not a powder or boondocking machine you know? Anyway, it's an xtra-10 rear skid with the indy select rear shock. So i'm thinking about turning the compression valve adjustment screw in (clockwise) a little to increase compression and stiffen the ride. The torrsion spring cam is in the up position which I believe would make the torrsion in the hardest position, meaning stiffest. Also i'm wondering about getting this sled to float a little more in the powder when I do take it off trail. There are two limiter straps in front and one in the back. The manual I have says nothing about adjusting the back limiter strap though. I recently adjusted the front limiter straps on my MM, I had them all the way out and by pulling them in about half way, the sled floated better. Would the same thing apply to this sled? Would I be able to tighten the rear limiter on this Polaris and improve it's float? The current position of the rear scissor stop is with the "marker dot" to the back of the sled. For the least weight transfer I believe I have to turn the stop with the "marker dot" or position marker to the front right? Or do I just need to revalve the rear indy select shock and get stiffer, thicker torrsion springs? Thanks for everyones help in advance! This thread has been a big help and I believe the torrsion springs are just shot and ready for some new "fat boy" springs. Read a couple of other threads too and it seems fairly simple to replace these.

Bret
 
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