"Big Boy" Torsion Springs on IQ: Inputs??
- Thread starter guidoxpress
- Start date
The 47 degree has more preload. I've had both .375/77 and .375/47 on my sled, the 47 degree worked out much better. The 77's sacked out sooner and had to be set to the stiffest pre-load the first season. The 47's can be set to the soft or medium pre-load giving a much smoother ride throughout the suspension travel.
Here is a great post from Curt at FTX Motorsports.
Yup, heavier springs or go with a Timbersled or New Holz Suspension with infinitely adjustable air shocks. The T-sled is also 16 lbs lighter than the stock boat anchor suspension.
My 07 RMK 600 now has 7200 miles on it now, I think it is time to get new springs in the rear. 
I weigh 200, geared up probably 215, and with a full tunnel bag, we are looking at 220-225. Which springs should I get? Most of my riding is in the U.P. of Michigan, sometimes the trails to the fun spots get a wee bit bumpy, and I do like to jump, not Slednecks style jumping though LOL. Do I go with the 359-47* or the 375-47*?? Looks like I may go with the scissors relocation also.
I weigh 200, geared up probably 215, and with a full tunnel bag, we are looking at 220-225. Which springs should I get? Most of my riding is in the U.P. of Michigan, sometimes the trails to the fun spots get a wee bit bumpy, and I do like to jump, not Slednecks style jumping though LOL. Do I go with the 359-47* or the 375-47*?? Looks like I may go with the scissors relocation also.
I'm a big supporter of the .375/47's. They are not overly stiff and give a great ride throughout your suspensions travel. I just did the scissors relocate myself this fall, can't wait to try it out this season. It's free and if you don't like it, just move it back.
I bought the .359/47 for mine this summer...im 170 lbs tho...if i were you i would prolly get the .375/47...im going to try the 5/8 scissor mod also...should be a big improvement over stock.
i have a set of the "big boy" springs for sale if anyone is interested...not the ones stated on here by Curt, but the actual big boy ones. used 1 season and installed a timbersled skid.
$120/shipped...there like $90 each normally.
i also used 6" upper idler wheels with this springs cause they were close to the track, and the 6" worked perfect!!
PM me if your interested in them..
and a TTT for one of the BEST stock skid mod threads out there
$120/shipped...there like $90 each normally.
i also used 6" upper idler wheels with this springs cause they were close to the track, and the 6" worked perfect!!
PM me if your interested in them..
and a TTT for one of the BEST stock skid mod threads out there
H
heavy d
Well-known member
Just finished installing my .375x47' torsion springs and moving my scissor back 5/8 of an inch.........225lb spring should be here Tuesday !!!
It feels like a brand new sled (bouncing around in the garage, anyway)
Can't wait for the snow....
Thanks for all the help Guidoexpress....sled feels awesome now
It feels like a brand new sled (bouncing around in the garage, anyway)
Can't wait for the snow....
Thanks for all the help Guidoexpress....sled feels awesome now
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are you referring to the upper bogie wheel and if it would rub the spring? if so, NO it will not rub the spring...the .405 torsion spring will rub, so you would have to use 6" upper bogies, but with the 375, you will be fine.
and you "dont have to" move the scissor back 5/8" if you read this thread, it states that the scissor reclation mod simply moves the rear torque arm back and removes the "dead-spot" in the suspension and provides a better transfer..
and its FREE, and its WELL worth doing...
Heavier Rear Torsion Springs
I installed the .375/47* torsion springs on my 09 700 RMK 155 after my third ride on it this year and I couldn't possibly be happier. I'm a bigger guy (240 before any gear) and with the stock springs set to max preload, the sled would sag substantially with nothing more than my tunnel bags on it.... you can imagine what it would do with me hitting any jumps or even regular riding. With the .375/47* springs on there, there is just enough preload that the sled will now return to full extension when I step off, but ride quality is completely unchanged, no harsh stiff ride over the bumps, just PERFECT.... and that is on the softest preload. 200 miles on the new springs and counting.
.375/47*
7042080-067 R/H
7042079-067 L/H
I installed the .375/47* torsion springs on my 09 700 RMK 155 after my third ride on it this year and I couldn't possibly be happier. I'm a bigger guy (240 before any gear) and with the stock springs set to max preload, the sled would sag substantially with nothing more than my tunnel bags on it.... you can imagine what it would do with me hitting any jumps or even regular riding. With the .375/47* springs on there, there is just enough preload that the sled will now return to full extension when I step off, but ride quality is completely unchanged, no harsh stiff ride over the bumps, just PERFECT.... and that is on the softest preload. 200 miles on the new springs and counting.
.375/47*
7042080-067 R/H
7042079-067 L/H
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Have you already purchased the springs? I had the .375/77* springs for the two seasons, then switched to .375/47* springs for much improvement for all the reasons posted above.
R
Rally2
Member
Yeah I already got the 77* for better or worse; was debating going with 47* but my reasoning was A) I'm a "light" bigboy just under 200lb B) I have the SLP adjuster blocks with a 4th position giving more preload than stock adjusters C) in principle I like to go conservative as possible on suspension spring rate and deal with bottoming via shock damping.
With the skid apart I got the stock W/E rear track shock rebuilt with 7w oil insteads of 5w to hopefully give it a bit more rebound damping to counter the the stiffer spring rate as well as more comp damping so I can run more mid-range on clicker position.
Note the photo showing larger 2.5" ID of new .375 springs versus 2" ID of stock .359 springs. IMO Polaris should sell a larger diameter plastic sleeve to take up the extra 1/2" diameter, otherwise the spring can twist on the shaft effectively taking away from spring rate. Someone mentioned using PVC pipe to achieve this but I'm not seeing the right diameters available or a way to prevent the PVC sleeve(s) from rubbing the idler wheel..
