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Best clutching for pro rmk 800

8,000'-10,000'

We run 10/60's in the primary.
And the Black/Purple spring in the secondary.
And the following is also what we do on the secondary. This advice came from TEAM.

The SLP Helix/Spring Shim will help maintain peak RPM riding at extreme
elevations (8,000 ft. and above). This shim spaces the hub of the clutch in
0.070" which raises the spring pre-load and rate by 8 to 10 pounds. It also
shortens the length of the initial (steeper) angle on a multi-angle helix
(ie. 58/38.46 with a shim would become a 58/38.40). This improves backshift
characteristics at high elevations in very steep conditions. It is
especially beneficial when using long, aggressive tracks.
 
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I feel that there are not enough riders that actually run comparison after comparison after comparison when they make a change. The area close to home that I frequent is very small, approximately 1,200 acres with around 50 machines per day pulling the same slope from morning till sundown, it's a great tuning ground with nothing else to do except race who shows up. When I go on rode trips I'm always looking for other riders comparing and racing sleds and never see it. I like to quiz people about what they're running or who has the best performing sled, most the time they will say that there are many different set-ups in the group but don't really know who's sled outperforms the others, they're just riding. If you come across some guy running a stocker this season that pulls 8,100 R's across the lake, up the hill, or holds it in the powder, talk him in to a few ski to ski test runs against your 8,200 to 8,300 tuned sled, my money would be on the stocker.
 
I hope this doesn't come off wrong but here it goes. Clutching can greatly change the way a sled feels. We believe that it is really important to understand how you ride and what you want your sled to do better vs your current setup. The stock setup on a pro works great all around and will suit the majority of riders just fine. Now, a clutch tuner becomes more important if you want your sled to beat your buddy across the flats or if your day of riding consists of tree flossing in 2-3ft of new. Obviously completely different setups would be needed for each but we feel it is most important to make sure the clutch tuner knows what you expect. Call all the clutch tuners and ask what a day of riding looks like to them and then choose the one that most closely matches how you ride.


This statement should automatically pop up every time theres a new clutching thread.

If you take somebodys clutching reccomendation without knowing why, you might as well have them pick a girlfriend for you too.

Efficiency is what you want to strive for, ... to get as close to the 1 to 1 ratio between the clutches as possible for the type of riding you do.
As said the stock setup works for a wide range of conditions, it does everything fairly well but nothing extremely well.
More specific setups are great, but will likely excell in one area but suffer in others so keep that in mind.

Roosters thread really says it all and is probably the best simple response Ive ever read to a very complicated subject
 
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