I have a 2014 pro rmk 800 163 on the way. I am looking for a the best clutching to run out west 8-10,000 ft. I am a big guy, 300+ with all my gear. Looking for something that will improve all over but mostly for climbing and quick reaction for side hilling. Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks
Best clutching for pro rmk 800
- Thread starter m7extreme
- Start date
MDS as well.
You ride about where we are (maybe a tad lower). I really liked the blue/pink SLP primary spring. At your size, you will likely have to do some special clutching. I run between 56.5 and 58 on the weights. I'm thinking you will probably need around 56 weights. I'd spend the money and call one of the companies others suggested. You might also benefit from a different helix.
C
Carls Cycle
Basic Member
CLUTCH KIT
We do have a few options for clutching for you. If you have any questions you can PM on here or email me direct at mike@carlscycle.com.
We do have a few options for clutching for you. If you have any questions you can PM on here or email me direct at mike@carlscycle.com.
I ride Id Wy and Ut. My 12 pro has the Carl's clutch kit with the Carl's shock revalve. Could not be happier.
Put in 2 clutch kits and rode with sleds with all different clutch kits. stock is a consistent performer in all conditions. All the others I see some gains and then some losses in different areas or different snow conditions. This is the only sled I've liked stock in most conditions. I'm 180 and ride 8-10k.
I hope this doesn't come off wrong but here it goes. Clutching can greatly change the way a sled feels. We believe that it is really important to understand how you ride and what you want your sled to do better vs your current setup. The stock setup on a pro works great all around and will suit the majority of riders just fine. Now, a clutch tuner becomes more important if you want your sled to beat your buddy across the flats or if your day of riding consists of tree flossing in 2-3ft of new. Obviously completely different setups would be needed for each but we feel it is most important to make sure the clutch tuner knows what you expect. Call all the clutch tuners and ask what a day of riding looks like to them and then choose the one that most closely matches how you ride.
i tried mds...was mainly looking to lower belt temps...didnt work for me, so i went back to stock and am leaving it stock. stock clutching works awesome. a delrin in the secondary and a couple of those thunderproducts metal washers, one on each side of the primary spring, has worked awesome for me on my 13
I've been pursuing the ultimate clutching for the Pro for two seasons now. I've been on approximately 110 tuning/comparison rides with various dealer recommended and personal tailored clutch set-ups. We've shown time and time again that going with Polaris recommended stock clutching is the way to go. Tune for 8,000 to 8,050 with the 3211115 belt and ride, it's very hard to beat. In 3,000 miles of tuning we haven't seen anybody show up with anything that performs better than the guy with stock clutching on a given day. My riding buddies and I run ski to ski (literally) day after day in an effort to find something better. I believe I've run or compared every recommended aftermarket clutch set-up out there, my sled is going back to stock before the snow flies.
I
IQRIDR
Well-known member
Weird. In less than 10 rides we were able to produce consistent gains in trackspeed, backshift and belt/sheave heat. I've sold over 100 Pro clutch kits and I don't think I've ever had someone not happy with one. If anything most guys coming in to get them explain that they were getting waxed by their buddies who already had the kit.
Not trying to sell our product, our customers and word of mouth do that, I am just saying, there are gains to be had, though I see them more commonly from 8150rpm to 8250.
AA, you might try Chad's setup(A2D sledworks), its very very close to what I came up with for the dragon(big thread in the dragon section).. and it works extremely well. on the stock setup, my best is stock secondary with 1-2 delrins and Slp pink/blue primary with MTX weights(load center hole only for tuning, leave tip empty).. it works very well over a broad range of conditions and elevations..
J
Jaynelson
Well-known member
8000 or 8050 doesn't feel like enough R's on this motor....mine ran noticeably stronger at 8,150 to 8,250. It runs good enough at say, 8050....problem is if it dips down below 8 if you go through some thick stuff or whatever, the power really drops off. The same little dip from 8,200 down to 8,050 would be much more desirable than dipping from 8,000 to 7,850 IMO.
Stock clutching on my 2011 always made lots of heat too. So I am surprised someone would think the stock setup is the best.
Stock clutching on my 2011 always made lots of heat too. So I am surprised someone would think the stock setup is the best.
I
IQRIDR
Well-known member
This is exactly why I clutch for a very slight overrev compared to peak RPM- On the 800 cfi, power falls faster below the curve than above the curve. I would rather run 8250-8300 (modded motors peak slightly higher) and when I hit a deep hole or high load condition, I might drop as low as 8100, right into the meat of the powerband instead of struggling to backshift and get back on step. A sled clutched this way WILL make it up a chopped up hillside quicker than a stocker clutched to 8050-8100 rpms.
I get the same response from most everyone every time the topic comes up. I'm not going to mention the names of the kits we've tried but they are probably the most popular dealer developed clutch kits in the west. The folks selling the kits claim there is no comparison to stock, "Our kits will outperform a stock sled in all snow conditions" so we try it and after 20 or 30 ski to ski runs the result is always the same, with boggy slow to respond stock clutching outpulling the others. Outperforming the kits has actually become a topic of humor/discussion most every ride. Most the kits are advertised as "More responsive" and they really are, they have such a quick responsive backshift to 8,250 RPM's you feel your running stronger until the slow to respond 8,100 RPM stocker drives on by and throws snow in your face. I've seen several ported, piped, power commander, high compression pros with clutching that is suppose to be the sh1t not able to outpull a well tuned stocker. There is a local kid in the area I ride that has Polaris book 10,000' clutching who has done nothing to his sled but replaced his stock hood with a Diamond S Mesh hood, we haven't seen a clutched or modded Pro in three seasons that can run with this kid (he's 195 with his gear on) between his father, myself and a few other Pro riders we've tried multiple set-ups in an effort to run with him, the closest I can come is when I go back to my boggy, unresponsive book clutching.
I
IQRIDR
Well-known member
Hmmmf. Well, different conditions, different state, different sleds, different riders. The shop's '11/12 Assault has all the things you mentioned and the only time I was getting passed by stock sleds is when I was running an RKTEK 858
I think it all comes down to where you live and how you ride, I live on the b.c north west coast, we get wet heavy snow half slush some times. Low elevation sea level to 4500'. So when I'm looking for clutching I do not call builder of clutch kit that ride dry suger snow at 5000-8000'. Got mds weights to try for free. Buddy sold sled for a doo. If I can't get them to work ill look at a2d kit same elevation, same wet coastal snow, should work great.
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