Best bang for other lightweight parts besides can?

[Mr. Pump Gas]

Besides the can, what would be the next best items to pick to shave weight on new Axys? Assuming non ES RMK.

Will any of the aftermarket CF guys get their hands on chassis to make lightweight parts to be available by this Nov/Dec?

 

[turboless terry]

The aftermarket will advertise things but you will be really lucky to have stuff that soon. As as far as weight, maybe float shocks or lightweight hood or headlight delete but I better your not saving much there. Possibly a light weight seat. I am going to add weight and go with electric start.

 

[GoBigParts]

The aftermarket will advertise things but you will be really lucky to have stuff that soon. As as far as weight, maybe float shocks or lightweight hood or headlight delete but I better your not saving much there. Possibly a light weight seat. I am going to add weight and go with electric start.

I am probably going ES as well but will probably switch to an LI battery at some point. LI battery and exhaust can will drop a ton of weight off. GGB's quiet Trail can may be in order. I have their mountain can on my pro and it only weight 4lbs 12oz. The trail can weighs another 1lb or so but is close to stock sound levels with a nicer tone.

 

[2005 1m]

I'm new to Polaris so this is purely based on my guess, but after the can I'm guessing the next best bang for your buck is the rest of exhaust system. After that I think it's going to get quite costly to shave a pound here and there on these; Polaris seems to have done a heck of a job in the weight department. I think the days of saving a few pounds at a time or less than $100/lb are coming to an end. This may sound crazy (and be expensive) but I'm thinking a carbon fiber fuel tank may be the next best place to look... lots of plastic there.

 

[RMK935VA]

Carbon fiber fuel tank, side panels, hood, etc. are cool but very expensive. If you put a Diamond S Quiet Titanium Can on the Axys, you are dumping about 15 lbs. putting the dry weight under 400 lbs. That is substantial and will be what I do. It is considerably less than $100 a lb. too.

 

[turboless terry]

I thought they were having problems with the carbon fuel tanks? $1800 for what 9 pounds. I bet you won't get your paws on one next year. Light weighting your skid and that tank might take 20 of but I'll bet it is 200 ish a pound.

 

[wfieldin]

I plan on re-using my lighter seat and Fox Floats, then throw a can on it and call it good. May consider a narrower front end when they hit the market will wait and see.

Starting at 413 lbs (163) should get me right at 400 or a little less.

Headlight delete was more trouble than its worth.

Add a tunnel pack with all my crap and I'm back to where it started.

 

[richracer1]

For the ES sleds, a lot of weight can be shed for not that much money. For instance;

OEM battery (guessing it's the same as on the '15s) is around 11lbs
Anti-Gravity Lithium YTX12-20 (600cca) is 5lbs is $370 (got mine last fall on Amazon for $335)
Anti-Gravity Lithium YTX12-16 (480cca) is 5lbs is $290
EarthX Lithium EXT36C is 4lbs at $350
Speed Cell Lithium battery is 3lbs (I think) around $350

Stock battery Box is 1lb 10oz
Fire n Ice battery box 10oz at $50 (will know shortly if this works on the Axys RMK)

7 to 9lb reduction for around $350 - $430.

 

[ak]

After the can, next best thing would be the skinz burandt free ride seat it weighs 2 lbs. then titanium rear arms and float shocks on all 4.

 

[AZ800]

For those spending big bucks on lightweight parts, I do not understand getting E start. That adds 20lbs + right? Anyone who is going to ride a sled anywhere off trail has to be in reasonably good shape.
What am I missing?
I can see E start on snowbikes being a very welcome convenience, having to kick start in powder or faced the wrong way on a side hill especially with the ease of killing the engine if you don't have a recluse, but don't get it on light weight sno machines.

 

[winter4ever]

mine will be hitting the gym, -20lbs right off my gut!

 

[mountainhorse]

Ti Can -18 lbs

LW Pipe -3 lbs

LW seat -2lbs

Carbon Tank -8lbs

Carbon body panels -8lbs

Ti A-Arms -2lbs

Ti / Carbon Rear skid -14lbs

Ti Bolt kit -2lbs

Delete the headlight -2lbs

Ti Running boards (Diamond-S) -3lbs

Drop the center driver -1.5lbs

And I know I'll catch heck for this... but Walker-Evans Air shocks...
They are the absolute lightest and, IMO, work for a mountain-only sled.
For me... with good valving, good shafts and good oil... they worked.
-8lbs

-71.5 lbs total


Puts the 155 PRO, with a stock weigh of 408 lbs dry, at about 336.5 lbs DRY ......WOW...
But you are probably looking at some serious cash!!

That would make it about 400 lbs even...RTR.

Go with a lightest decent mountain track... say the 2.25" power claw 153".... and you could drop another 4 lbs out of the sled.

Do the "Carl's Cut" on the skis... good for a half pound of plastic.

Take a .6lbs of rotating mass with the TJ carbon clutch cover.

If TJ does some spindles for the the AXYS mountain... figure -2 lbs.

So with those items... Hmm... a 329 lb sled may be possible... Crazy

 

[richracer1]

For those spending big bucks on lightweight parts, I do not understand getting E start. That adds 20lbs + right? Anyone who is going to ride a sled anywhere off trail has to be in reasonably good shape.
What am I missing?

Cause some of us have had shoulder injuries, and at the end of the day that particular motion starts to become painful regardless of how easy this engine is to pull over.

 

[turboless terry]

MH, I thought the stock can weighed 17.

 

[mountainhorse]

I thought it was more like 20lbs.

 

[mountainhorse]

I guess we'll see when the production models hit the showrooms and we can get the real-world weight... not claimed weight by Polaris or the can mfgs.


Either way... it still has room for dropping weight!!




.

 

[RMK935VA]

I saw a 15 Pro (900 Carl's) being built up for some dude in Nova Scotia or another part of Eastern Canada. It had a carbon fiber tank, side panels, hood as well as a whole bunch of other lightweight pieces and parts. I don't know what the final weight ended up at but I estimate that he was into the sled for $45 large. It was nice but way out of my price range. I figure that an investment of $1,000 could yield about a 20 lb. decrease. After getting at the easiest things like the can and a few others mentioned by MH, the price per lb. is going to climb very fast. As he so graphically showed us, you could get a sled that weighs 400 lbs. or so ROR but you better have a big wallet. I will be satisfied with the 20 lbs. that I can reasonably achieve within my limited budget. It will still be a very lightweight sled and you will have money left over for a nice lightweight mountain bike to ride when there is no snow. My mountain bike season has started a lot earlier this year in Idaho due to lack of snow. It is fun but it is not the same as riding a sled all day in the mountains. Get a 16, make it lighter yet and hope for a decent snow year for the winter of 15/16.

 

[Mr. Pump Gas]

Great info MH and guys. I won't go that crazy but probably the shocks, seat and possibly rear skid. I have tried to keep the snow build up off this year and had a little luck with Ariens spray, however spoke with fireball coatings and they felt confident their coating would keep snow off. Anyone tried?

 

[displacement4me]

Has anyone heard any specs on these new forged arms for comparison against a 36" kit?

 

[Laundryboy]

I've got a 14 Pro that I've taken more than 45 Lbs. off of. Without a doubt the price per pound goes up as you remove more weight. My last weight reduction, carbon fiber spindles, were around $1,500 for just over one pound. The sled is light and fun to ride. Whether or not it was worth the investment depends on the individual.