Mine when down at 2,000mi and I'm guessing from the massive hole in the bottom of the block it was also the PTO rod bearing. How long did it take to get yours fixed?
Belts blown count
- Thread starter Rooster Built
- Start date
Mine when down at 2,000mi and I'm guessing from the massive hole in the bottom of the block it was also the PTO rod bearing. How long did it take to get yours fixed?
B
Bacon
Well-known member
I was not gonna bring this up but talking to a couple rental places, these motors are going down around the 2000 mile mark. Doo better get that figured out.
S
Slick
Well-known member
doo is way better than poo on getting a fix.
poo on the other hand only takes about 15 years to get it close and only denies everything from glue to poor product engineering in the process
So what ? So it's ok if these motors go down with regularity at 2000 kliks, As long as they last longer than Polaris ? That makes it alright?
Can't even question something on a Doo without one of you guys , while not denying it , but making reference to Poo or Cat is worse. is it lack of confidence in your choice that you need that self affirmation ?
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0 belts 440 miles 3000-7500 feet tree riding all foam removed 165 3" clutches cleaned after every ride
The theory of increasing underhood airflow enough to fix the belt temp issue is old news and just plain false. I did this over 1500mi ago and it made little to no difference. In deep snow the hood vents are instantly packed w snow and there is almost no airflow going under the hood no matter how much foam/baffling you remove. I honestly think that modifying the clutch cover reduced the amount of hot air coming out the foot well by compromising how the cvt cooling is supposed to work. Of course the foot well gets so packed w snow it doesn't work to expel much hot air anyways after a few minutes of riding.
I also disagree that the shrouds he removes from the mag side and top of the motor are JUST for noise reduction. They also shield important components from HEAT. Look at the proximity of the harness/injector wiring to the pipe with that cover removed. It also does nothing to increase airflow as it's not blocking anything except the wiring from direct heat off the pipe. It certainly doesn't increase airflow around the clutches. So remove that stuff if you want to possibly melt some wires and good luck getting it covered under warranty.
With some aftermarket venting and perhaps active heat removal with a blow hole or similar you might see a small difference in belt temps. It's a baindaid fix at best.
I also disagree that the shrouds he removes from the mag side and top of the motor are JUST for noise reduction. They also shield important components from HEAT. Look at the proximity of the harness/injector wiring to the pipe with that cover removed. It also does nothing to increase airflow as it's not blocking anything except the wiring from direct heat off the pipe. It certainly doesn't increase airflow around the clutches. So remove that stuff if you want to possibly melt some wires and good luck getting it covered under warranty.
With some aftermarket venting and perhaps active heat removal with a blow hole or similar you might see a small difference in belt temps. It's a baindaid fix at best.
Just shy of 500 on one and 365 on the other. Haven't blown a belt yet. Have not pulled anything out. I am not a fan of cutting your sled up like Swiss cheese to add vents. I am running them on clicker 3 at 7800. I don't rail them down the trail over 50. Too hard on these new tracks. I have smelled belt a few times and it depended on the snow as to whether I shut them down. I'm not much for shutting them down if the snow is awesome and I'm having fun. I think it is like buying anything. You either get lucky or you don't. There is more to the story than simply venting. I would be pissed if I had blown 13 belts. If you blow a motor, well, sh!t happens if they take care of you right away. If you are down for a month I would be irate. Doesn't matter what brand it is. What good is warranty if it is always in the shop.
Summit X 154 3"
650 mi. Original belt. Removed foam/felt, cut and drilled clutch cover. Ridden medium hard, east side cascades, 4-7000ft.
3/3/17 edit
Next ride blew the cords off that belt, did not delaminate. This after adding 2 washers to each pivot bolt and returning to clicker 3 per dealers recommendation.
650 mi. Original belt. Removed foam/felt, cut and drilled clutch cover. Ridden medium hard, east side cascades, 4-7000ft.
3/3/17 edit
Next ride blew the cords off that belt, did not delaminate. This after adding 2 washers to each pivot bolt and returning to clicker 3 per dealers recommendation.
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2 belts in 600ish miles. Both of which were on the trail out. First one I couldn't believe since I was just cruising very light load, hard pack trail. The second one I was hard on the belt that day. Lots of WOT and deep snow. I just installed a MtnTk Blowhole in hopes this cures some of the issue. I also ordered up the ZRP weights in hopes this reduces temps as well. I can definitely tell a difference in temps with the blow hole. Before it would sizzle when I grabbed the secondary after a while of thrashing in the deep and now it doesn't. It is still hot to the touch but no more sizzling. We will see how long the next belt lasts with the blow hole installed.
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Please keep us updated on how the blowhole and ZRP weights work. I am personally satisfied that I got 1427 KM on my first belt but it certainly would be nice to double that!!
10 belts
1300 miles
5-8000 ft elevation
probably would've been at 13 belts if I had my sled through the last storm .. but lucky for me my sled was at the shop with the engine out getting a few things fixed ... so I had my shop's loaner sled to ride. and I rode that thing hard !!! clutches stayed cool and didn't blow anything. the loaner had a lot more foam / felt than mine, stock weights, clicker 3, over revving but ran like a champ
I've done every song and dance to my sled, still sizzling clutches and blowing belts.
at one point I was up to 27 grams pin weight and it would still over rev on clicker 3 .. what does that tell ya ? belt slip ??
two of the things that got fixed on my sled were leaking rave valves and leaking oil pump .. .both of which could cause oil residue and belt slippage. Will tell the tale on the next storm cycle.
1300 miles
5-8000 ft elevation
probably would've been at 13 belts if I had my sled through the last storm .. but lucky for me my sled was at the shop with the engine out getting a few things fixed ... so I had my shop's loaner sled to ride. and I rode that thing hard !!! clutches stayed cool and didn't blow anything. the loaner had a lot more foam / felt than mine, stock weights, clicker 3, over revving but ran like a champ
I've done every song and dance to my sled, still sizzling clutches and blowing belts.
at one point I was up to 27 grams pin weight and it would still over rev on clicker 3 .. what does that tell ya ? belt slip ??
two of the things that got fixed on my sled were leaking rave valves and leaking oil pump .. .both of which could cause oil residue and belt slippage. Will tell the tale on the next storm cycle.
over rev...secondary not doing the job if the stock for alt weight is correct.
0 belts ride 9000 to 11000 ft but power falls on its face on long pulls
curious what weights u guys are doing on high altitude kits and what springs
curious what weights u guys are doing on high altitude kits and what springs
H
HAY FARMER
Member
0 belts 400 miles
We have 9 Gen4s in are groups 0 belts blown .
Belts blow due to heat. What causes the heat? There is always going to be engine heat but it's not hot enough to blow a belt. People use vents to lower the temps under the hood. It does help with that but does very little in preventing belts from overheating. Vents can actually cause belts to blow due to snow or water getting through them and onto the clutch, causing the belt to slip. Belts slipping on the clutches cause a tremendous amount of heat in a very short period of time. Water getting onto the clutch is not the most common cause of belts blowing. The most common is secondary clutch back pressure. The secondary clutch is also called the driven clutch....it responds to the primary clutch. If you don't have enough back pressure on the secondary clutch then it will not respond quick enough to the primary clutch, which in turns cause the primary clutch to engage at higher rpms and also causing a tremendous amount of heat created from slipping. When you're on and off the throttle it propagated the issue.
If you have a problem with your belt you have a problem with your secondary clutch back pressure. I don't know why they haven't figured this out. Instead they want you to buy an overpriced belt or make a completely new one without fixing the issue.
If you have a problem with your belt you have a problem with your secondary clutch back pressure. I don't know why they haven't figured this out. Instead they want you to buy an overpriced belt or make a completely new one without fixing the issue.
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