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Belt drive kit for 11 and 12's

I think what you are referring to is the seal in the cover that sits behind the brake, is that correct? This is not there and the brake rotor actually flips around and goes on the opposite direction.

No, I ment Item #14 on this picture, Ball bearing.

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No, I ment Item #14 on this picture, Ball bearing.

I think C3 is saying that the outboard bearing behind the rotor, and the cover it rides in, are completely removed with the kit. Interested on why the rotor is flipped, perhaps because the bearing has been removed, which you may be driving at, and assuming it's the OEM jackshaft, and similar caliper mount. He said install was a breeze. Should be interesting when done.
 
I have a kit from C-3 in shipping now and will mod the chain case for the 2.5 extreme, should be way cool!!!
 
It is the stock ratio,I was thinking of going lower but decided that the system is more efficient so I decided to stay stock which in theory would be gearing up a tooth,
 
I got mine installed yesterday. Ran it down the street with wheels on and it's definitely more snappy on the bottom end. I went with the stock gear ratio. The parts from C3 are crazy light when you pick them up!

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I didn't weigh the chaincase oil obviously, but there is some weight savings there too.
 
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Just did the math, nearly 1/2 what the stock stuff weighs, bet with a few Ti bolts instead the belt drive is less than half. Now get someone to start production of an aluminum / ceramic brake disk again or go all the way to a carbon / carbon brake and we are in business. We can get her down to sub 400#'s dry easy. Thanks for posting.
 
These look very nice but for the money it's hard to justify when a guy has a perfectly well working chaincase with only a few hundred miles on it that will easily outlive my sled's motor anyways.....
 
Here are a few for ya. Kind of hard to get good shots, especially of the tensioner, with the brake rotor in place...

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You guys are not helping!!! I just got the Visa to $0 and I've been thinking about this mod for the last 2 months, now I'm drooling over it!!!! Looks awesome....... Not helping!!! hahaha
 
C3 you must mean the top sprocket cannot be smaller than 3" in dia? As a 3"r is a 6" dia? Too bad the driveshaft wasn't relocated down another .5 to .75" for tunnel clearance to really help with the resistance? Could this be done as an option for somone that really wanted it all?

Thanks Mike
 
Ditch - Just Do It!

Mike - It would work with the Avid case also for a longer center to center distance, albeit an extra grand or so to the cost. Some modification may be needed for the tensioner mount to bolt up and likely a longer belt be used.
 
Ditch - Just Do It!

Mike - It would work with the Avid case also for a longer center to center distance, albeit an extra grand or so to the cost. Some modification may be needed for the tensioner mount to bolt up and likely a longer belt be used.

Oh, I'm gonna!!!!! :)
 
One question for C3.....

Can a guy get your belt drive with a shorter belt if you did not want to run the tensioner????? This is the only benefit I can see by going with a retrofit from
Polaris (if they make one available). I'd rather have a shorter belt and no tensioner.
 
One question for C3.....

Can a guy get your belt drive with a shorter belt if you did not want to run the tensioner????? This is the only benefit I can see by going with a retrofit from
Polaris (if they make one available). I'd rather have a shorter belt and no tensioner.

C3 can chime in also, but the tensioner on the C3 is what keeps the belt from walking off the sprockets if there is any walking of the belt (the stock Polaris sprockets each have a flange to accomplish this). C3 may not offer the correct ratio to get the belt tight in spite of the belt walking or not walking.
 
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C3 can chime in also, but the tensioner on the C3 is what keeps the belt from walking off the sprockets if there is any walking of the belt (the stock Polaris sprockets each have a flange to accomplish this). C3 may not offer the correct ratio to get the belt tight in spite of the belt walking or not walking.

Correct I use the tensioner as the guide method by design. I could add guides to the gears but for space I find it best to add to the tensioner wheels. There is a chance that I could come up with one gear combination that required no tensioner but that is limiting and Polaris spent huge $ to accomplish this. They made a new 11mm belt pitch (molds for the belt are more than $150 K) so all parts are exclusive to them and the consumer will have to live with whatever they decide to offer.
 
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