Quick, I have a 153 now and I am thinking about a 162 or 174. will this cause me to have belt problems? And will it tone down my sled a little?
Belt Blower - Opinions needed ASAP!!!
- Thread starter mrquick68
- Start date
parallel
you put parallel bar in secondary clutch bring it down to primary make measurment from bar to back side of primary in two places forward of primary and rear of primary front should be 60 to 90 tousands wider in the front
you put parallel bar in secondary clutch bring it down to primary make measurment from bar to back side of primary in two places forward of primary and rear of primary front should be 60 to 90 tousands wider in the front
sorry. i'm slow... picture???sounds like you aren't setting parellelism either - that's setting alignment.
pmed you Quick
I have this problem as well i only have 200 km on sled in this time i have taken 40 thou of a new belt 10 thou a ride been measuring each ride never the less the bellt is toast, my last sled was a rmk 900 the problem of that one blowing belts i solved with clutch balancing,venting, and slp torque and push arms it also got rid of the vibration. Has anyone checked the balancing on these clutches because they are never perfect from factory, and i also notice the m8 has a pretty good vibration if it was a real issue you think the aftermarket guys would have it fixed by now. I just installed a bunch of venting, gutted the hood, timbersled intake and i am going to put a new belt on and measure to see how much of a difference this will make, i found that there was a lot of under the hood heat on this machine and clutches were running to hot, if not my next step will be to have the clutch balanced it should be done every year anyways and its cheap peace of mind then i will go from there, i should be riding this weekend i will let you know how i make out with it.
mrquick68, Sorry to chime in late but just got back from Mountains. I have 07 M1000 with 2500 miles. I am on belt number 8. I was bless this trip with the spider on my four tower primary cracking in half in the middle of BFE. I replaced with new three tower. I cannot believe how much better balanced the new clutch is. At WOT it is night and day difference and even noticable at idle. I am mad at myself for not noticing how out of balance the old clutch was but it has been like this since it was new.
I have 400 hundered miles on new clutch. The new clutch does run cooler and belt seems to be in good shape. I have no idea where to send clutches to get balance but I will be doing this on my next sled before the first ride. The belt looks very good comparing it to the last 7 belts with 400 hundred miles on it. The old primary was peeling the cords on the non motor side and if i did not replace belt she would just destroy belt in next hundred or so. After reading your article I am really going to compare the two clutches to see if i can find any difference in offset.
I have 400 hundered miles on new clutch. The new clutch does run cooler and belt seems to be in good shape. I have no idea where to send clutches to get balance but I will be doing this on my next sled before the first ride. The belt looks very good comparing it to the last 7 belts with 400 hundred miles on it. The old primary was peeling the cords on the non motor side and if i did not replace belt she would just destroy belt in next hundred or so. After reading your article I am really going to compare the two clutches to see if i can find any difference in offset.
This is good news as I just bought a 3 tower for my 07. However my 4 tower didnt have any issues with balancing.
Quickie,, is it possible to shim these drive clutches? sounds like some of the problem is in the fact that the track is spinning while on the stand. NOT being a smart azz, but any time your sled has that much resistance in the drive at idle the belt burning process is taking place. I know the hill climb guys run their belts that tight but at the same time they don't expect long life out of them that's just the nature of the beast... So, with your belt that tight at idle cold, the belt only gets tighter when it gets hot. Don't ask me why but they seem to expand in width and if you are starting with a tight belt in the drive clutch well,,, it will get tighter. Also as the clutches heat they expand hence creating an even tighter squeeze on the belt. Ya, having a looser belt will allow the clutches to disengage coming down hill sooner but at 70+ per belt there has to be some give some where. Seems like the standard gap for a new belt in the drive clutch is like 60 thou. or so. Not sure if that is on both sides or measured from one side.
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i see what you are saying, but i've ran these Ms this way for 4 sleds and four years... this is the only one that a belt blower though...
E
Evolution Powersports
Well-known member
few other things. i rarely, if ever - sit and idle my sled. i just turn it off. so, not a lot of time to heat the belt up idling. also, no shimming the drive clutch, but the motor can be shimmed.
I was having the same problem, I broke the belt in this last time, 20 miles not going over 50 as per my A/C dealer, the rubber seemed to fuse itself over the cords, now I have 250 miles on it and it looks good. I went 20 miles, changed to another new belt and came home on that one, now my spare is broke in too. I went through 8 belts in my last 5-6 rides. I also had clutches aligned, deflection set, and had to mill a little off the back of my secondary hub, it was rubbing into the dd cover.
Quick,,, do you have other 1000's you can look at? The no shim thing is interesting, I would check the width of the drive clutch in the bottom where the belt rides, just for giggles. I thought drive clutches could be shimmed. Guess I've been away from riding too long.
well, the inside of the primary can be "shimmed" - but you have to pull it all apart to do so, and these primaries never live long after they're torn down and put back together. fact of life unfortunately. the only thing this adjusts though is your belt to sheeve clearance and mine is good at about .020" on a new belt.
Ya,, that sucks, I would suspect that the engine is twisting too much. Although I'm still concerned about the lack of gap between the belt and primary. What goes bad after taking the drive clutch apart? Is it the spider? If so, I know it's more money but, can you install an after market spider? I am blown away that these clutches are no better quality than they are. For crying out loud,they haven't changed in 15 years! What a joke! I had cracking problems that long ago but found out part of it was clutch heat so, geared down and cured that problem. You've done that and still have a problem. I would still look at the drive clutch and motor mounts. I think some where in there is the problem.
well, i never got to ride this weekend (no new snow!!!) so i won't know if the softer spring helped until Weds or Thurs as i'm gonna mid week ride this week. will know more then!
i will make more thoughts then as to what i think the issue is.
I posted this in november, but I will repeat it here to mabye get some more thoughts on the motor mount "issue":
Regarding alignment, it seems that AC has changed the left side engine mounts 3 times in 3 years:
2007 M1000 has "Left engine bracket" part #0708-470
2008 M1000 has "Left engine bracket" part #0780-513
2009 M1000 has "Left engine bracket" part #0780-555
Regarding alignment, it seems that AC has changed the left side engine mounts 3 times in 3 years:
2007 M1000 has "Left engine bracket" part #0708-470
2008 M1000 has "Left engine bracket" part #0780-513
2009 M1000 has "Left engine bracket" part #0780-555
Quick, I got my DD fixed, took a while but its all good now. Rode all weekend, snow sucked by was runnin great.
I run the CPC kits on both my 2007 M1000 and 2007 M8 and having good luck with belts. I also installed the SMT billet spider and billet cover into my 4 tower primary on my M1000. I think the heat and flex kills the belts on the M1000. Also the side cover vents are a must why cat dosent install them as stock I do not know.
