Another Yamadoo

[Turbo11T]

timing

did you use someone's jig for the cam timing or set it to your own specs?

I used a degree wheel, tdc stop and dial travel indicator. It really was not bad to do. I am going to engrave the cam to the cam gear to make it easy to make sure it has not slipped back or if i need to take it apart sometime.

I was thinking of making a jig for myself as well. i ended up leaving the cams at 111 and 113.5. Dave at PL told me as long as i get over 110 on the vector motor it is immensely better than stock. The vector motors are 98 degree lobe centers on both exhaust and intake so it is a huge change. I think this should really make it perform like a totally different animal. I am guessing way more low end grunt.

 

[t_thall]

i see, i ended up just advancing both cams 4 degrees on my nytro to move the powerband lower as once the turbo's moving its got lots of power, lag isn't an issue but i wish i could of drove it before to see how much of a change it made. Was thinking of trying the powderlights timing to compare as well but changing the timing in the sled is a major P.I.T.A!

 

[Turbo11T]

cam timing

T Hall. I did not find the cam timing to be to bad. I would try the PL timing as Dave at powderlites has obviously tried many different setups and found 114 to be the best. I believe this is what his jog sets the cams too as well.

I found a minor design flaw tonight. I finished all the spacers and machining for the chaincase, jackshaft and drivshaft today. I was hoping to assemble it all and put the track in this weekend and then That would be done again. Turns out I over looked the fact that I will need to have the chaincase and brake rotor off to tighten the rear motor bolt. I also need to machine the brake caliper slightly to move thebrake rotor out .050 or so. this really is minor but wwill stop much from getting done this weekend. i also need to cut the inlet and outlets to the heat exchanger and weld them shut and add new inlet and outlet back about 4 inchs to clear the turbo. this will have to get done before i put the motor in because it is way easier to bolt the turbo to the header out of the chassis. it is doable in the chassis but reaaly sucks.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

the fun stuff you realize AFTER you start working on things... I learned that last year, the way my downpipe was setup, I had to take the turbo off to get it out, then it was still a pain. oh well, the growing pains of building your own stuff.

either way, its all coming together.

 

[Turbo11T]

growing pains

I am not to worried about the growing pains the only way I can get around it would be to go to a yamaha chaincase and I didn't wanna do that

 

[Turbo11T]

motors in for good

Tonight after I finished bolting the motor in. I ended up going over the top of the oil filter with the coolant hose and it worked good. Tighted the bolts and checked the clutch alignment and am very happy with the way it is sitting in the chassis.

Note the cobra intake boot! THANKS ULMER RACING.
I would have trouble fitting anything else in there.

Rider view, really standing over the motor and turbo. The wieght is very far back in the chassis. I think this will be very good. I am probally going to mount the battery in the front to just add a little weight up front.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

that thing is looking SAWEEETTT... the motor moutns are really nice, should hold that thing in really well. your also really gonna like ther ergo's of it with the midmount, on mine just throwing it around in the garage on the floor, it has a really good fealing balance point.. as the motor is so close and the turbo is RIGHT underneath you, good center of mass.. and there isnt an ounce of weight up in the nose cone.

as far as the battery, yeah, move it forward, as much as you dont want to to be nose heavy, you need some weight in the front to keep it down.. these things like to lift the ski's a hair. you figure out what your doing for a tank so far?? either which way, looks good, gonna be a ripper.

 

[Turbo11T]

that thing is looking SAWEEETTT... the motor moutns are really nice, should hold that thing in really well. your also really gonna like ther ergo's of it with the midmount, on mine just throwing it around in the garage on the floor, it has a really good fealing balance point.. as the motor is so close and the turbo is RIGHT underneath you, good center of mass.. and there isnt an ounce of weight up in the nose cone.

as far as the battery, yeah, move it forward, as much as you dont want to to be nose heavy, you need some weight in the front to keep it down.. these things like to lift the ski's a hair. you figure out what your doing for a tank so far?? either which way, looks good, gonna be a ripper.

Custom Aluminum tank. I dont want it visible and i want 10 gallon capacity and that is the only way to get it.

 

[Racegun]

Nice work Derik... can't wait to see it run!

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

Custom Aluminum tank. I dont want it visible and i want 10 gallon capacity and that is the only way to get it.

slick.. a 10 gallon tank should be pretty easy to get, just make it taller and hollow out the stock seat, I LOVE the way mine feels with all the foam taken out, its forced up a hair higher, and it is much more firm.. a BIG plus.. also gets some weight out of the heavy seats on these things.

 

[Turbo11T]

tank

Yeah, most definately should be able to get 10 gallons. It should be slick have a rear fill in the rear compartment of the seat. I am planning to put the battery by the chaincase and have a little storage area in the front of the nose cone. Should be nice. I am thinking maybe like a little duffle bag that will fit in there nicely. I hate not having any storage, for soda, water, food etc. And I get don't like having any extra weight in my backpack.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

yeah.. I am struggling with the same thing right now, as I dont have any storage spaces in the sled, BUT, im gonna throw a little plastic tool box up in the nose cone for spare tools/crap etc. I dont mind crap in the backpack, BUT< the nose has a LOT of space, and now that it has no pipe in it.. a nice place to keep tools so the pack isnt 100#

 

[Turbo11T]

Yamadoo

Got the suspension arms powdercoated, still need to powdercoat a few other parts, suspension is in though and powderclaw is in. Going to work on the ic tommorow hopefully. Still a bit left to do, but i think it is getting closer.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

lookin good.. keep it up.. should be runnin in no time.

 

[Turbo11T]

intercooler dilema

I have been having a little problem deciding on the intercooler. I do not have a ton of room behind the steering post. I plan to build a new one but even still there will not be much room.

The main problem is that it is a PITA to get the intercooler off to get the carbs off. I think right now I would need to remove the steering post to get the intercooler out, even with the new steering post.

Today I cut the intercooler carb end tank apart and think I can get a little room that way. I also noticed that the rubber boots are probally 1/2" to long now. By trimming these I get more room as well.

 

[JTAB]

I would move the post forward at the top of the Pyramid or make a new bend in the post.
Do you have a fan for your intercooler until I moved mine up in the headlight area it heat soaked all the time. Just my 2 cents worth.

Look Great by the way.

 

[Turbo11T]

post

I would move the post forward at the top of the Pyramid or make a new bend in the post.
Do you have a fan for your intercooler until I moved mine up in the headlight area it heat soaked all the time. Just my 2 cents worth.

Look Great by the way.

Post is in the top of the pyramid already. I am going to make a new post with a higher bend. Should do the trick. I dont have a fan yet. I really don't know if there will be room. I wish that this intercooler was not giving me so much trouble. I do really well with the fabricating but my aluminum welding skills just plain suck. I may get the IC how I want it and have someone build me one identical that can weld aluminum better than me.

 

[Wheel House Motorsports]

just a thought.. not sure how the rev bottom exactly looks, or could be flipped around on the base, so you could move the base farther out as well, not a lot, but every inch counts right??

 

[Turbo11T]

bottom mount

just a thought.. not sure how the rev bottom exactly looks, or could be flipped around on the base, so you could move the base farther out as well, not a lot, but every inch counts right??

I may be able to move the bottom block forward. Maybe even a couple inches. If I do It I have to move it a couple inches as I will have to put the linkage to the steering rack on the other side of the rack. I will check it out tommorrow. May give me the space I need.

 

[Powder Nomad]

NICE!!!

Holy cow Derek, that looks incredible!!! Great job with all the work, can't wait to see what it looks like when all done and, more importantly, hear how the beast runs!