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Any feedback on the new Adapt clutch, good or bad? Just curious, wanting to update to this new clutch.
Adapt Clutch, any good?
- Thread starter Turboskickbutt
- Start date
Because so many have ridden with them lol
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i've got 60 miles of mountain powder riding, seems smooth and consistent....engages at about 3200 rpm and tachs to 7550 pushing 20" of fresh at 10k ft....ground 61 gm stock weights to 59 gm....hope to try it out again later this week
I was wondering the same thing! Unless the longevity is greatly improved, I may stick with my 2020 primary for a while until we get more reports.
I think a lot of us are in the weeds too- but I for one feel it's going to take a full season before we get any tangible feedback to make a conscious decision.
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follow-up to previous post....i have a little over 100 miles on new clutch, mostly mountain riding with some trail access miles....after grinding weights to lose 2 grams, i gained rpm from 7600 to 8200 at 10k....perfect for my clutching and stock engine with a bdx exhaust....throttle response is excellent and sled pulls hard and consistent, back shift excellent on steep stuff....2022 8000 165 track
I have an uncalibrated Adapt primary coming from Country Cat but, I don't have any weights yet. I ride 4-7,000 feet, what weights do you recommend? Did you use the primary spring that came with the clutch?
If I recall correctly- you also need the spacer on the clutch bolt- as the stock one is to long
Yes, 2623-325
What gram of weights did you start out with to have to take of 2 grams? Have a 2019 & 2020 165 that are wanting new adapt. Sleds have BMP exhaust.
Did you stay with the primary spring that come in the adapt.?
also riding 8,000 to 10,000'
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as i stated in 1st post, i ground stock 61 gram weights down 2 to get 59 grams....stock spring....only thing i changed in the primary was to grind the weights......driven works well with a 45 or 44 degree helix with a bdx orange spring, this set-up works well 8k to 11k
Found these this weekend. Might be helpful.
Does anyone know where I can find Adapt clutch weight pins and bolts? I called Eric at the Racin Station and Kevin at Hubbs and they are using all the bolts they have to setup and sell pre-calibrated clutches. I have the pins and bolts on order from Country Cat but they are on backorder. I will hopefully have MDS weights from Steve coming in the next week or so. Any help would be appreciated.
i ordered weights pins washers and the new spacer, i have recieved everything the washers i believe. i ordered it through country cat.
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I have 500 miles on a '22 ZR 8000 with an ADAPT all stock.
It seems to be pretty efficient with trail riding. The stock setup has a smooth drive away and keeps pulling. I also have sleds with the old stock clutching and had a chance to compare. The secondaries and gearing are the same on paper with the other sleds. I wouldn't call the difference a game changer, but there is a difference. It is set up quite well right out of the box on the ZR machines.
The clutch faces look better than I've ever seen on a stock sled. Is it just setup? Maybe, and maybe not. One of the other sleds for comparison is a good running '21 with slight clutching. They should be the same on paper except for the clutching. The stock ADAPT hangs right in there all the way and uses less fuel. The fuel anomaly is surprising and doesn't make a whole lot of sense.
I'm curious to see how they hold up long term. I'll keep pounding on the thing to see what might break. I usually replace at least one primary in a season between the sleds. I currently have a spare Team waiting to go. I'm guessing that will be my last Team clutch if the ADAPT holds together. I like the efficiency and ability to rebuild the things. Tuning can't be any harder than it was on the Team.
It seems to be pretty efficient with trail riding. The stock setup has a smooth drive away and keeps pulling. I also have sleds with the old stock clutching and had a chance to compare. The secondaries and gearing are the same on paper with the other sleds. I wouldn't call the difference a game changer, but there is a difference. It is set up quite well right out of the box on the ZR machines.
The clutch faces look better than I've ever seen on a stock sled. Is it just setup? Maybe, and maybe not. One of the other sleds for comparison is a good running '21 with slight clutching. They should be the same on paper except for the clutching. The stock ADAPT hangs right in there all the way and uses less fuel. The fuel anomaly is surprising and doesn't make a whole lot of sense.
I'm curious to see how they hold up long term. I'll keep pounding on the thing to see what might break. I usually replace at least one primary in a season between the sleds. I currently have a spare Team waiting to go. I'm guessing that will be my last Team clutch if the ADAPT holds together. I like the efficiency and ability to rebuild the things. Tuning can't be any harder than it was on the Team.
Favoritos, that's good to hear! What engagement speed are you seeing with the stock Adapt primary spring? Do you feel this is optimal?
Well I had to ADAPT........
So far the new Adapt clutch is preforming well- Running the BMP Snypr Weights-
So far the new Adapt clutch is preforming well- Running the BMP Snypr Weights-
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Have about 1,700 miles on the clutch now and kept it ZR stock for the duration.
I have seen some change that I find interesting.
It is running cleaner faces and less belt dust with the added miles. I'm honestly a little surprised by how clean everything looks. Drive away is still great. The bottom end is still super smooth with a low engagement. I don't even see black streaks from engagement hitting.
Tend to run long haul stuff at high rpm. (We're talking miles and miles on end with the valves open.)
It does need some more aggressive setup for the high end yank and hold. It's softer on top after break in and loosing some of the efficiency in hard pull riding.
What does that mean to on and off throttle riding? The basic answer is the stock setup will start to feel softer on your high rpm long pulls. That may work well with higher elevation riding. It's not quite enough pinch for lower elevation in stock form.
With previous clutching, that usually meant adding a little weight to the tip. I have not changed the stock weights yet, but that is the direction I'm leaning. The weight profile and spring combo get it into the power band very smoothly. Engagement is relatively low with tight belt to sheave. It will grab and hold under 3k with warm belts. It just needs a little more to hold the squeeze longer on top.
I have seen some change that I find interesting.
It is running cleaner faces and less belt dust with the added miles. I'm honestly a little surprised by how clean everything looks. Drive away is still great. The bottom end is still super smooth with a low engagement. I don't even see black streaks from engagement hitting.
Tend to run long haul stuff at high rpm. (We're talking miles and miles on end with the valves open.)
It does need some more aggressive setup for the high end yank and hold. It's softer on top after break in and loosing some of the efficiency in hard pull riding.
What does that mean to on and off throttle riding? The basic answer is the stock setup will start to feel softer on your high rpm long pulls. That may work well with higher elevation riding. It's not quite enough pinch for lower elevation in stock form.
With previous clutching, that usually meant adding a little weight to the tip. I have not changed the stock weights yet, but that is the direction I'm leaning. The weight profile and spring combo get it into the power band very smoothly. Engagement is relatively low with tight belt to sheave. It will grab and hold under 3k with warm belts. It just needs a little more to hold the squeeze longer on top.
