K
900 Mountain Cat opinions?
- Thread starter Skyhigh
- Start date
Thanks for the opinions... I have alot of experience so the "ergos" between the two dont bother me. Been throwing around "older" sleds my whole life. Though the M-7 was VERY NICE. It is a great ride... vs. power of the king right? This thread might help me lean to the king... the ride isnt a concern for me.
If your looking to buy, I have a premo 04 King Cat I could sale.
Stock motor lots of extras, low miles. I can E-mail pics if interested.
has anyone swapped the steering hoop to otherside and modified the stock steering post for a more forward rider position?
K
kidrman
Well-known member
My buddy did this to his 05 and it works great. You will have to do some trimming and bending but it will work.
when I bent mine I got a forward mount post to replace it is 4" longer, with stock bars, it is a very comfortable stand up machine now,preveous to that I had a 3" 30 degree riser and it a big difference between the two
Dirtbag, Doesn't the 30 deg. extension put the post in the same spot. Or is it still behind? I have a AMP offset 2" riser, And it feels like the handlebars are more forward! Seems better in deeper conditions? Maybe I should look at the taller forward post!
Mike
Mike
the forward post is about an inch forward from the 30 degree riser ,I found it moved my feet right into the saddle of the running boards, when standing, with the riser I found my toes right at the low spot in the v,and the post takes away the goofy leverage feeling on the steering,and the last point is the 4" extension I got on the post it is the perfect height for me the 3" riser I had was an inch short ....I would not have the post except I bent my old one, the riser made a big difference but the post made that much more of a difference......you only need the forward bend post if you are running factory air box if you have pods I believe you could make the stock post work in the forward mount position
If the wildchild post was stock height, Then a 30 deg. riser added would this place the handle bars further forward? Rather than a 2 to 3" longer post plus shorter riser. To remove the upper clamp, Does one need to remove the tank and associated plastic above? Or just the choke lever plastic to get at the nuts so they don't fall below?
Thanks
Mike
Thanks
Mike
7
76FOMOCO
Well-known member
just take off the 4 screws holding the plastic the choke and key switch are in and just pry a little on the hoop and the bolt will come right out. if you get a wild child pm me i can give you step by step as i have done a few of them and have them down to about an hour.
yes it would move the bars foreward more,like I mentioned the leverage with a 30 degree riser,and the swing of the bars as you turn ,made me happy to get a straighter set up on the post ,as well to go much farther I think you would run into it not being comfortable to sit
what did everyone do with the stock steering post hole after they moved the post forward?
I have the Ole's foward mount and angled 3" riser and it's still not foward enough, feels like my bars are in my lap still, I only ride standing.
I have the Ole's foward mount and angled 3" riser and it's still not foward enough, feels like my bars are in my lap still, I only ride standing.
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Not to change the subject, What has everyone done to lighten these machines? All in toll is 47+ lbs. lighter. Makes riding this ole beast that much easier! And still a work in progress. If I understand correctly the stock hoods are 35 lbs? Sounds kinda heavy!
Mike
Mike
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76FOMOCO
Well-known member
the stock hood is only 19 lbs, you can put a mesh hood on it mine is 6.5lbs, dump the oil inject and save about 5 lbs change the can and save about 12lbs so this is an easy 30 lbs. the the best way to drop 20 lbs of the ugliest weight is to get a gym pass. total of 50 LBS.
just the chassis is fairly light by it's self most of the weight is in the dam motor, alone with no clutches, carbs, valves ect and just recoil 108 lbs.
just the chassis is fairly light by it's self most of the weight is in the dam motor, alone with no clutches, carbs, valves ect and just recoil 108 lbs.
I had some black plastic sheet that I cut to size and heated with a heat gun to get it to form to the slight curve on the tank plastic that holds the choke,I added a two wheel kit and removed the outer ideler wheels with the bdx inner idler kit,with the taller forward post it all made a big difference,before I could not turn much comeing down from a climb now I can lay it right over when comeing down and turn back up into the hill
you have to make a new hole in the hood itself and the old one is left empty,does NOT use same hole
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76FOMOCO
Well-known member
I was talking the upper bearing mount hole in the hoop, you do have to cut a hole (a half circle notch)in the hood
